uote: Originally Posted by oreana123
Hey Katana
Your backstay is primarily used to flatten the upper area of the main. If you are not using an adjustable backstay to change the tension then I guess the backstay is not necessary. Macgregor left off this item, but a small block and tackle will do the job. If you want to be able to go back to the stock set up, then fabricate a new backstay for the adjuster out of dyneema line like that offered by the Samson company called Amsteel.
As far as squaring the main goes, you might choose this modification for at least 2 reasons. First of all, I am not convinced that the uppermost triangle of mainsail does any good. Due to the windspeed gradient from foot to head, a certain twist is induced in your main when it is set correctly, and this accommodates the changing relative wind angle as you go from foot to head of the main. The question I have is whether the twist can correctly set the uppermost triangle.
Another effect of squaring off the head of a mainsail is that it shortens the luff. In conjunction with a sliding gooseneck, the main can be raised or lowered along the mast to accommodate wind speeds: higher for light air and lower for heavier air. It can also get the boom above of the cockpit, a much safer and comfortable situation.
There is a drawback. If you shorten the main and raise it all the way up the mast, you might experience a conflict with the backstay. On my 26D, this clearance conflict can be dealt with in 2 ways, either loosen the adjustable backstay and let the sail come across, or manually grab the sail and shake it. I have a lot of roach in my main, btw, but I make it happen easily. Note that this conflict only is important on a beat, when jibing the sail does not have a problem.
My sliding gooseneck has a metal loop welded on the bottom. I use a cunningham adjuster to adjust my luff tension. I also use a pin above the mast slot to keep the mainsail from falling on the deck when I let the main halyard go. I am considering closing the slot up a bit so that the sliding gooseneck will not come out of the mast, but my slugs will. I already pin my mainsail tack to the sliding gooseneck with a quick release pin. The sliding gooseneck is from a Hobie 18.
PM me if interested
Hi again I tried to PM you but your box was full. I wish I was that popular, or maybe not. I don't quite have that many useful answers yet.
I've done a little more searching and I am even more convinced I like your idea with the sliding goose neck. I think it would solve all my head height issues and still lets me move the sail back to the factory position if I want. My problem is as I mentioned before I have little knowledge of sail making and probably only have access to somebody that does canvas work on motor boats. I think it would be fairly easy to make a larger metal triangle (I forgot the terminology for it) at the top of the sail. My question is, currently at the top of the mast the triangle is small and plastic and there is also some sort of plastic??? reinforcing sewn between the sail fabric, and I am not sure if I need battens if I make the triangle big enough. (I checked the amount of room from the back stay and there appears to be lots. My fear is if I make a larger triangle the aluminum will chaff the Dacron sail. What do you think is the best material to use to help reinforce the fabric in this area. I was also contemplating just welding a 18" mast to the existing one and putting in new wiring, but this might be harder than it sounds.
Thanks in advance for the help
Dave
Hey Katana
Your backstay is primarily used to flatten the upper area of the main. If you are not using an adjustable backstay to change the tension then I guess the backstay is not necessary. Macgregor left off this item, but a small block and tackle will do the job. If you want to be able to go back to the stock set up, then fabricate a new backstay for the adjuster out of dyneema line like that offered by the Samson company called Amsteel.
As far as squaring the main goes, you might choose this modification for at least 2 reasons. First of all, I am not convinced that the uppermost triangle of mainsail does any good. Due to the windspeed gradient from foot to head, a certain twist is induced in your main when it is set correctly, and this accommodates the changing relative wind angle as you go from foot to head of the main. The question I have is whether the twist can correctly set the uppermost triangle.
Another effect of squaring off the head of a mainsail is that it shortens the luff. In conjunction with a sliding gooseneck, the main can be raised or lowered along the mast to accommodate wind speeds: higher for light air and lower for heavier air. It can also get the boom above of the cockpit, a much safer and comfortable situation.
There is a drawback. If you shorten the main and raise it all the way up the mast, you might experience a conflict with the backstay. On my 26D, this clearance conflict can be dealt with in 2 ways, either loosen the adjustable backstay and let the sail come across, or manually grab the sail and shake it. I have a lot of roach in my main, btw, but I make it happen easily. Note that this conflict only is important on a beat, when jibing the sail does not have a problem.
My sliding gooseneck has a metal loop welded on the bottom. I use a cunningham adjuster to adjust my luff tension. I also use a pin above the mast slot to keep the mainsail from falling on the deck when I let the main halyard go. I am considering closing the slot up a bit so that the sliding gooseneck will not come out of the mast, but my slugs will. I already pin my mainsail tack to the sliding gooseneck with a quick release pin. The sliding gooseneck is from a Hobie 18.
PM me if interested
Hi again I tried to PM you but your box was full. I wish I was that popular, or maybe not. I don't quite have that many useful answers yet.
I've done a little more searching and I am even more convinced I like your idea with the sliding goose neck. I think it would solve all my head height issues and still lets me move the sail back to the factory position if I want. My problem is as I mentioned before I have little knowledge of sail making and probably only have access to somebody that does canvas work on motor boats. I think it would be fairly easy to make a larger metal triangle (I forgot the terminology for it) at the top of the sail. My question is, currently at the top of the mast the triangle is small and plastic and there is also some sort of plastic??? reinforcing sewn between the sail fabric, and I am not sure if I need battens if I make the triangle big enough. (I checked the amount of room from the back stay and there appears to be lots. My fear is if I make a larger triangle the aluminum will chaff the Dacron sail. What do you think is the best material to use to help reinforce the fabric in this area. I was also contemplating just welding a 18" mast to the existing one and putting in new wiring, but this might be harder than it sounds.
Thanks in advance for the help
Dave
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