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Question about eye splice

AndyL

.
Jun 23, 2020
42
Hunter 36 Rock Hall
I just completed my first eye splice in double braid (3/8"), following instructions that came with the fids. There is something I assume is wrong - there is no core in the section marked with the oval.

IMG_1549.JPG


But, I noticed the same thing in my boat's existing mainsheet - the section of the eye splice near the "Y" has no core.

I don't understand how this would be OK... the cover is not very strong and it seems that this small section will be a significant weak spot.

What seemed to happen is that I pulled the core through about an inch below where the splice would join back on itself, then trimmed the core. As I pulled everything together to set the splice, the core got sucked up into the loop.

What did I do wrong? Should I only trim the exposed core at the very end when the splice is 'set'?

Where should the core end?

Thanks,
Andy
 

AndyL

.
Jun 23, 2020
42
Hunter 36 Rock Hall
Urgh...I re-read the instructions a few more times and think I did trim the core too early in the process of setting the splice.

Sorry to have wasted time with this post.
 
Apr 8, 2010
1,625
Ericson Yachts Olson 34 28400 Portland OR
Andy, I agree that splices are very cool and I have done a few over the years.

If... this is for a halyard... do consider not putting in a 'permanent' eye. We have low stretch halyards (T-900) and for many years rely on a "halyard knot" to secure them to shackles. That way we can easily bring them down (leaving a light line in place) for cleaning every other season. Also, it's easy to reverse the ends every so often.
And... we never have to be concerned about the fat part of the splice getting jammed into a sheave at the top of the spar.

No, not a better answer, but given the reasons, a workable alternative.
:cool:
 
Jan 19, 2010
954
Catalina 34 Casco Bay
Prior to starting add 3 jiggers of vodka to any any desired mixer sample and place in freezer. Mark line at point Z..and check the vodka with another sample. Next measure core 1/1/2 fid lengths and check vodka by sampling. MARK the fid length anything you want to. Now before starting to taper the core, check the vodka. The mixture should be starting to thicken as you get stiff. Mark the outer sheath wherever you want. Retrieve the vodka. Spoon out the mixture into a 16oz tumbler and add more vodka. The could be finished, who knows cuz your done....Zzzzzzzzz
 
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Jan 1, 2006
6,097
Slickcraft 26 Greenport, NY
Not a waste of time. My efforts splicing have so far been a bust. I'm encouraged to step back in. I will start with the vodka in the freezer. Maybe that's the problem.
 
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Likes: sailme88
Oct 22, 2014
16,130
CAL 35 Cruiser moored EVERETT WA
I just completed my first eye splice in double braid (3/8"),
First CONGRATULATIONS Andy.:beer::clap:
What happened the first time you drove a car? I am guessing it went mostly great but there was still a little work to do to prefect the skill.

Doing eye splices is much the same. you likely tried to milk the splice and you were careful to measure everything just right but perhaps clipped the lines a little short or missed one of the diagonal line counts or measured a little short or perhaps missed the crossover point when inserting the line. All of these are challenges that if a little off add up and your find that a part of the splice is "short".

Ok. Now that you have done it for the first time, pull it out or cut it off and give it another go. I have heard your best splice is your last one and it takes several to get to that point.

:biggrin:
 
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Joe

.
Jun 1, 2004
7,454
Catalina 27 Mission Bay, San Diego
First of all, that splice is no good. You were right to ask about it. Don't use it like that.. So just keep practicing. You'll know when it's right....that issue you pictured will not exist.
Make sure your marks on the core and cover are correct.... watch the samson video. The core's end taper and where it emerges from the double braid section must be long enough to be absorbed back into the rope. (the hardest part is inserting the core through the core/cover section far enough for this.... You can do it sections, rather than one long pass, if need be.... poke the fid out...pulling the core slack with it... then re insert and go the rest of the way...there will be less friction/binding rather than making one long pass.
Main thing is to be patient, have a sharp knife, or scissors, and read the instructions many times to get the markings correct and understand what's going on. Don't forget the lock stitch at the end.
 
Last edited:
May 6, 2010
465
1984 Oday 39 79 Milwaukee
If... this is for a halyard... do consider not putting in a 'permanent' eye. We have low stretch halyards (T-900) and for many years rely on a "halyard knot" to secure them to shackles.
I use an eye in the working end with soft shackle attachment, and a reeving eye (no core) in the other end so I can attach a smaller sacrificial halyard for the winter. It does eliminate the possibility of flipping end for end though.
 
Jan 1, 2006
6,097
Slickcraft 26 Greenport, NY
So, why couldn't someone flip the halyard and put new eyes in on each end?
 

LloydB

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Jan 15, 2006
543
Macgregor 22 Silverton
Thanks for your post it gave me a chance to revisit the proper way to make a eye splice and what happens when the instructions followed don't give the same results. So I looked at the video justsomeguy posted so as not to make that same error myself again. Watched the Samson YouTube and also took a look at the howto Dyneema YouTube and found that one also well worth watching because it covered mistakes I may have made.
 

AndyL

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Jun 23, 2020
42
Hunter 36 Rock Hall
Sorry for not replying to all the helpful advice - I got sidetracked by other things.

Thanks everyone - I appreciate all your help. I'll watch the vids and do more splices while I wait for spring.
 
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Nov 21, 2012
283
Yamaha 33 Port Ludlow, WA
Winter is great for whipping all those loose ends, of which I have a surprising number.
 
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Likes: jssailem