So to follow up - good news, and some lessons:
The Good News
I pulled the injectors on the 3YM30 (more on why those and not the glow plugs below), rotated the flywheel and only air came out of the cylinders. Reinstalled the raw water pump and now I'm just awaiting parts to put the motor back together. While I'm awaiting parts and have the injectors out of the engine I dropped them off at a diesel shop to have them checked out and cleaned up as necessary. No way of knowing how long its been since they were checked out since new in 2009 (though I did see tool marks on the injector bodies), so figured with winter layup this is a great time to get that done. With any luck I'll get the parts in, reinstall the injectors, bleed the fuel lines, and we should be off and running.
Lessons
- Don't use a drill pump to push antifreeze through your exhaust system as it doesn't have enough pressure to do so successfully
- Injectors are easier to pull on a 3ym30 than glow plugs. Two of the three glow plugs are buried in the engine and not accessible without an uncomfortable (for me) amount of disassembly. I could see the plug wires, but couldn't even SEE two of the glow plugs.
- In order to get a wrench on the aft most injector I had to take the wire off the aft most glow plug - which is fairly accessible. Teeny tiny nut and similarly sized washer held the wire on. Very delicate operation - especially when contorted through an engine access hatch with only one arm available. A very slim socket extension saved the day, and lots of slow movement.
- The fuel pump injection lines from the fuel pump and injectors themselves were really no problem to remove. The real problem was the return line, which is secured by a top nut onto each of the injectors. Since the return line is made up of soft metal tubing you have to be VERY careful not to twist it when removing the top nut, which wants to torque the return line as the injector it is connected to turns in the engine block. To prevent this you are supposed to put a wrench on the injector, and hold it still, while you put a wrench on the top nut and twist it off. Yeah, good luck with that. The top nut securing the return line was WAY tighter than the injector in the engine block, and there was absolutely NO way to get any tool available to mere mortals on the sides of the injector due to the engine block recess being so close. After twisting the metal return lines enough that I realized they were probably compromised I took a pair of wire cutters and snipped the tubing off close to the injector. Then it was a simple matter of backing out the entire injector with a wrench. The return line is a $62 part I'm happy to replace. If anyone has a better idea I'd be very glad to hear it. I'm having the diesel shop loosen the top nut from the injector when they clean them up as I cannot with hand tools. Sheesh. I'm giving serious thought to just how to reinstall without torqueing the NEW return line.
- My engine is pretty clean, but as soon as I started torqeuing and snipping return lines and putting wrenches on painted fuel lines and injectors little bits of paint flakes were everywhere. I used a shop vac to get as much of that as I could to prevent it from falling into the cylinders when the injectors came out, and shop vacced the injector hole as well, just to be safe. Then stuffed clean and oiled shop towels into the injector holes to prevent rust while the injectors are out.
- If you have an average set of tools you'll likely expand it during this mechanical work. The wrench and socket sizes required are metric and larger than the "standard" toolkits provide. I bought a set of metric open and closed end ratcheting wrenches that included a 17mm which I needed for the top nut on the injectors. The actual injector body screwed into the engine block is even larger than that, I want to say around 22mm. That's 1/2" socket territory, and you'll need an extension and any adapters for your tool set to get that on there if the top part of the injector comes off during removal.
- Also, to put the injectors back in you'll need to replace some consumable gaskets. If you look on the parts diagram you'll see them. They're just a few bucks apiece (the injector shop will probably replace them, but I have them ready).
I hope not to have to do this again, but I did get to work on parts of my 3ym30 I've never touched, which I'm enjoying. It seems like a simple engine to work on, but access is an issue, both from an engine bay perspective as well as the way the engine is assembled. Probably way easier on the factory floor when they put it together. Anyway, thanks for everyone's help on this. Appreciate the assist.