I have posted a series of pictures of the table modifications that my friend, Jimmy Harrell, has made to our Hunter 260 Table. These are found in the owner submitted pictures of the Hunter 260 on this site. We spent the past weekend on the boat and let me tell you these modifications have changed our boat completely. We now have more usable room than any 30 footer I have been on and it is now really comfortable down below.
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You Go Calvin
Calvin, GREAT MOD GREAT JOB. Good thing you didn't do that before I moved up to the H356. Wife probably would have made me make the same thing and keep the H260. You can probably sell those plans and howto to a bunch of 26 and 260 owners. I'm with you, I always thought the table was to big. WELL DONE!!! Jim S/V Java
Calvin, GREAT MOD GREAT JOB. Good thing you didn't do that before I moved up to the H356. Wife probably would have made me make the same thing and keep the H260. You can probably sell those plans and howto to a bunch of 26 and 260 owners. I'm with you, I always thought the table was to big. WELL DONE!!! Jim S/V Java
mods
Calvin, Your friend did a great job on the table mods. I have one question--what does the large section of the table rest on when level with the seats? Thanks for sharing your ideas and the pictures!
Calvin, Your friend did a great job on the table mods. I have one question--what does the large section of the table rest on when level with the seats? Thanks for sharing your ideas and the pictures!
The 260 is designed for this
The seats have a lip built into them for the table to rest on. The lip exactly matches the size of the table. I have not looked at a 26 so I don't know the same is true for it.
The seats have a lip built into them for the table to rest on. The lip exactly matches the size of the table. I have not looked at a 26 so I don't know the same is true for it.
Nice Job
Looks great, Calvin. You've given us lots to think about. Can you describe the clamp used to keep the table in the "up" (ceiling?) position? Thanks
Looks great, Calvin. You've given us lots to think about. Can you describe the clamp used to keep the table in the "up" (ceiling?) position? Thanks
No lip on the 26.
The keel version table comes from the factory configured to drop down to the lip on the 270 (a "keeled" 260.) They did not do that in the w/b cause the sole is higher and the support for the table is too tall. However I don't know why they didn't change the design of the table support (the plastic cone under the table.) alan
The keel version table comes from the factory configured to drop down to the lip on the 270 (a "keeled" 260.) They did not do that in the w/b cause the sole is higher and the support for the table is too tall. However I don't know why they didn't change the design of the table support (the plastic cone under the table.) alan
Well about the clamp...
I originally thought that Jimmy was going to use a clamp of some type, but he was unable to find one. The wooden support for the base of the table serves this purpose in a sense. With the table in the full up position, a post is placed along the length of the compression pole. If you look carefully at the picture 'Back view of the raised table' you can see this. The pin is inserted which locks everything in place.
I originally thought that Jimmy was going to use a clamp of some type, but he was unable to find one. The wooden support for the base of the table serves this purpose in a sense. With the table in the full up position, a post is placed along the length of the compression pole. If you look carefully at the picture 'Back view of the raised table' you can see this. The pin is inserted which locks everything in place.
Wow! Very Impressive!
Nice job Calvin & Jimmy. Wonderful idea. I wonder if you removed the table from the post or if you cut the large piece off while the table was still attached to the post? Thanks for the pictures. This might be my next winter season project. Regards, Bob.
Nice job Calvin & Jimmy. Wonderful idea. I wonder if you removed the table from the post or if you cut the large piece off while the table was still attached to the post? Thanks for the pictures. This might be my next winter season project. Regards, Bob.
Beautiful
One of the first things I saw when I went in a 260 was that table. I was very surprised that it did not spin around and make a big bed like you have done. Great Job!
One of the first things I saw when I went in a 260 was that table. I was very surprised that it did not spin around and make a big bed like you have done. Great Job!
Did not remove the table from the post
Jimmy talked with Hunter before he began work and they recommended removing the compression post as if it were a small job. After I told him that there would be resealing issues and that he would have to cut or remove the centerboard cable he thought better of the idea and did all the work with the table in place. There was significant sawdust but that is easily cleaned up. I was not there so I don't know how hard it actually was, but I think with the proper tools it would not be too terribly difficult. One thing that suprised me when we began looking at the thing was that the pin thru the compression post is easily removable.
Jimmy talked with Hunter before he began work and they recommended removing the compression post as if it were a small job. After I told him that there would be resealing issues and that he would have to cut or remove the centerboard cable he thought better of the idea and did all the work with the table in place. There was significant sawdust but that is easily cleaned up. I was not there so I don't know how hard it actually was, but I think with the proper tools it would not be too terribly difficult. One thing that suprised me when we began looking at the thing was that the pin thru the compression post is easily removable.
Cutting the Table
I'm the carpenter friend that Calvin has been refering to. Cutting the table was not difficult. Deciding exactly how to go about it took some time. I clamped a straight edge accross the table as a guide and used a circular saw for the first cut. The corners were rounded with a saber saw. The fiberglass support under the table was cut out with a reciprocating saw which I think is also known as a sawzall. Jimmy Harrell Hunter 37 C and San Juan 23
I'm the carpenter friend that Calvin has been refering to. Cutting the table was not difficult. Deciding exactly how to go about it took some time. I clamped a straight edge accross the table as a guide and used a circular saw for the first cut. The corners were rounded with a saber saw. The fiberglass support under the table was cut out with a reciprocating saw which I think is also known as a sawzall. Jimmy Harrell Hunter 37 C and San Juan 23
Very cool
It's always great to see people customizing their boat for their needs. One size does not fit all. The table in the 26/260 is huge and that's a plus for some and a minus for others. We daysail our 26 and usually have 3 or 4 kids aboard, so the large table comes in handy as they spend lots of time below deck doing crafts, reading, eating, studying, etc. I think if it were just my wife and me, we'd consider reducing the table's size too. Ron Mehringer s/v Hydro-Therapy
It's always great to see people customizing their boat for their needs. One size does not fit all. The table in the 26/260 is huge and that's a plus for some and a minus for others. We daysail our 26 and usually have 3 or 4 kids aboard, so the large table comes in handy as they spend lots of time below deck doing crafts, reading, eating, studying, etc. I think if it were just my wife and me, we'd consider reducing the table's size too. Ron Mehringer s/v Hydro-Therapy
26 under table support
Have any 26 (not 260) owners ever dropped the plastic cone under their table to see what's inside? I'd assume it's the brace to support the long end of the table. I, too, would like the additional berth space that would be provided by dropping the table, but would like to keep the table size to be able to sit the family at dinner. I'd even consider having the brace ON TOP of the table, if it was possible. Now, I realize that is putting loads in tension, as opposed to compression, but something to think about. Either that, or I may just fashion two-piece platform to drop in at bunk level, and then raise the table and drill a hole in the compression post (watching for the keel line) to hold the table up high at night. T J
Have any 26 (not 260) owners ever dropped the plastic cone under their table to see what's inside? I'd assume it's the brace to support the long end of the table. I, too, would like the additional berth space that would be provided by dropping the table, but would like to keep the table size to be able to sit the family at dinner. I'd even consider having the brace ON TOP of the table, if it was possible. Now, I realize that is putting loads in tension, as opposed to compression, but something to think about. Either that, or I may just fashion two-piece platform to drop in at bunk level, and then raise the table and drill a hole in the compression post (watching for the keel line) to hold the table up high at night. T J
Answer for TJ
I recently cut out a slice of the table support on my '97 h26 to accomodate an under table storage shelf for the hatchboards. First, the support isn't plastic but fairly thick fiberglass (not easy to cut through). Second, there apperars to be nothing inside other than the compression post. With a small access door it could provide storage for small items.
I recently cut out a slice of the table support on my '97 h26 to accomodate an under table storage shelf for the hatchboards. First, the support isn't plastic but fairly thick fiberglass (not easy to cut through). Second, there apperars to be nothing inside other than the compression post. With a small access door it could provide storage for small items.
Table support
I believe the plastic (fiberglass) cone under the table is the actual table support. To get the table all the way down (a very nice option for bunking) you obviously have to remove the support. Someone with good craft skills might be able to cut the support cleanly in two vertically. Then attach some sort of latches at the seams to hold the halves together. Unlatch, remove the support, and drop the table for the night. May be a crazy idea, but you never know. ;-) Ron Mehringer s/v Hydro-Therapy
I believe the plastic (fiberglass) cone under the table is the actual table support. To get the table all the way down (a very nice option for bunking) you obviously have to remove the support. Someone with good craft skills might be able to cut the support cleanly in two vertically. Then attach some sort of latches at the seams to hold the halves together. Unlatch, remove the support, and drop the table for the night. May be a crazy idea, but you never know. ;-) Ron Mehringer s/v Hydro-Therapy
Additional ideas to a great project
Here are a couple additional ideas to think on. 1. With a supporting leg at the long end of the table, to lessen the torque, and a couple "latches", buckles or clamps at the cut area you could reconnect the two pieces and still use both pieces as a large table. 2. The same latches could be used to secure the large end of the table into the notch of the V-berth, when and if you wanted to put someone in there. 3. With the end of the table cut off, lessening its torque and weight, the nylon coller at the bottom of the fiberglass cone by its self might be able to support the balanced weight of the smaller table. 4. It looks like the hole in the compression post where the support pin goes through has had a sleeve welded in to retain its strength. You could drill and sleeve another higher hole to support the table in the ceiling position. (I'm not sure why you would want it up there, but you could.) My only question is, Jimmy, how far from the post did you make the cut so the large piece fits into the V-berth area? Something more to ponder. :^) Brigg
Here are a couple additional ideas to think on. 1. With a supporting leg at the long end of the table, to lessen the torque, and a couple "latches", buckles or clamps at the cut area you could reconnect the two pieces and still use both pieces as a large table. 2. The same latches could be used to secure the large end of the table into the notch of the V-berth, when and if you wanted to put someone in there. 3. With the end of the table cut off, lessening its torque and weight, the nylon coller at the bottom of the fiberglass cone by its self might be able to support the balanced weight of the smaller table. 4. It looks like the hole in the compression post where the support pin goes through has had a sleeve welded in to retain its strength. You could drill and sleeve another higher hole to support the table in the ceiling position. (I'm not sure why you would want it up there, but you could.) My only question is, Jimmy, how far from the post did you make the cut so the large piece fits into the V-berth area? Something more to ponder. :^) Brigg
Aluminum Support!
I was thinking of doing the same thing with my H260. Although I will not be able to get to this project until the fall, my thought was to remove the fiberglass/plastic support for the table and replace it with a removable aluminum support that would clamp on to the compression post.
I was thinking of doing the same thing with my H260. Although I will not be able to get to this project until the fall, my thought was to remove the fiberglass/plastic support for the table and replace it with a removable aluminum support that would clamp on to the compression post.
Calvin, I Will Make It!
Sorry Calvin, I will make the aluminum support. I should have mentioned that point. I have a friend who does welding (including aluminum welding) and he will help me. When its finished I promise a photo will be posted. Again, your table came out wonderful, congratulations. By the way, where did you find the model to pose for the pictures. I can't decide what's prettier, her or the table! Regards, Bob
Sorry Calvin, I will make the aluminum support. I should have mentioned that point. I have a friend who does welding (including aluminum welding) and he will help me. When its finished I promise a photo will be posted. Again, your table came out wonderful, congratulations. By the way, where did you find the model to pose for the pictures. I can't decide what's prettier, her or the table! Regards, Bob
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