Outhaul purchase

[Brian S]

So, I finally decided to increase the purchase on my 192's outhaul. I decided the easiest thing to do is add a cascade with 1 block. I still needed to drill and rivet an eye strap, but that's not too much modification. Even though it's only 2:1 purchase, I think it will be easier to pull on outhaul all the way in a breeze, without it loosening up as I try to cleat to the horn cleat. I'll add an adhesive ruler to it later, so I can look like a legit racer...

It was breezy and gusty as heck yesterday, so I'm glad I finished the install. Went out with full outhaul, laid the toe rail in a few times while sitting on the cockpit coaming, then decided I ought to reef. STILL washed the toe rail a few times. And had quite the fastest DDW run I've had in a long time.

 

[thinwater]

Neat.

For the record, eye straps are many times stronger if installed in-line with the rope, with a loop instead of a stopper knot. Last weekend I watched a guy replace one that was installed sideways like that. It bent sideways and levered the rivets out (topping lift, Cal 25).

I wouldn't worry about it on this boat, for a hand-tightened line. Just something to remember.

 

[Brian S]

Neat.

For the record, eye straps are many times stronger if installed in-line with the rope, with a loop instead of a stopper knot. Last weekend I watched a guy replace one that was installed sideways like that. It bent sideways and levered the rivets out (topping lift, Cal 25).

I wouldn't worry about it on this boat, for a hand-tightened line. Just something to remember.

Dangit, that's what I thought! I was going to ask for opinions, but didn't have time to wait for an answer. Yeah, I looked at the orientation of the leech reefing line eye strap, and I guess if I had it tied with a bowline, then it would be pulling in-line while reefed. It was hot on Sunday, and I guess I wasn't thinking too straight, because I thought I might put it in-line, and then didn't wind up doing that. Well, heck, if it pulls out someday or bends, I've got enough room to move it.

Hey, Thinwater, didja see the PM I sent you about mildew treatment?

 

[jpniewski]

I rigged my 222 outhaul the same way, plus I used a block and soft shackle at the clew for less friction. Also mounted a clam cleat to use instead of the horn cleat. Works good but I rarely adjust it anyway!
Joe

 

[Parsons]

Thanks to both for putting in these success stories, particularly with pictures! A decade from now, some fellow will be wondering how to do this and you've helped him out. As a follow-up on Thinwater's comment about eye straps, the molded line along your boom is there to mark the center of the boom, and to make it easier to drill without necessarily pinging with a center-punch.

 

[Brian S]

Jpniewski, that's cool! I see with another eye strap and single block on the clew, I could increase the purchase on mine. We'll see, but I doubt I'll need more purchase.

 

[Jackdaw]

Neat.

For the record, eye straps are many times stronger if installed in-line with the rope, with a loop instead of a stopper knot. Last weekend I watched a guy replace one that was installed sideways like that. It bent sideways and levered the rivets out (topping lift, Cal 25).

I wouldn't worry about it on this boat, for a hand-tightened line. Just something to remember.

It's stronger for sure, but still can be leveraged out. But for your boat probably either way is fine as TW notes. For a great low cost solution for that application, use a terminal eye strap and a d-ring.

 

[Jackdaw]

Jpniewski, that's cool! I see with another eye strap and single block on the clew, I could increase the purchase on mine. We'll see, but I doubt I'll need more purchase.

Well 2:1 is the biggest bang-for-the-buck single block addition, it cuts the original load in half! Minus friction of course. A simple and easy way to almost cut it in half again is to just loop the outhaul line thru the clew and and back to a hard point at the end of the boom.