I have a '88 H30. The other day my engine overheat light came on. So I cut the engine and sailed back except the last 100 yards where I used the engine again. When I looked into the problem yesterday I found the impeller was shreded and replaced it with a new spare I had (thanks to the gentlemen I purchased her from I have a nice stock of new parts) However I checked the manual and asked the boys over at West if they knew what type of grease to apply. Neither stated the answer so I sprayed it with some T9 for now. Anyone know what type of grease they mean? Another friend thought whire grease or even vasoline. So while I had the impeller appart I notice the belt that drives it was all but snapped so I replaced it with my spare(smile) Then I figured minds well do a January 1 tune up and replaced the primary and secondary fuel filters(I have several spares) Here lies the problem. I did too much... Apparently in the process I had gotten air in the fuel lines because the engine only ran a minute when I cranked her up. I tried the methods in the manual and can get diesel at the secondary filter bleed valve when I crank the engine. I disconnected the hard fuel line from one and both of the cylinders and can not get fuel to come out when using the cam, cranking the engine, or cursing all day today. I believe it is something simple and will have a mechanic cure it as I wanted to have the engine aligned anyway. However, anyone know what I may have missed? I like to do things myself and also enjoy it (most times).Happy New Year
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white lithium grease
I believe you should use a bit of white lithium grease on the impeller. As to bleeding the air from the fuel line, I will leave that to the experts on this board to answer. chris
I believe you should use a bit of white lithium grease on the impeller. As to bleeding the air from the fuel line, I will leave that to the experts on this board to answer. chris
Injector pump
Bob, I had the same problem and the book does not tell you to do this. The problem is you have to bleed the air out of the injector pump. That is why you cannot get fuel to the high-pressure fuel lines. On top of the pump, right where the low-pressure fuel line enters the injector pump you will see a small screw. Bleed the air off as you pump the primary fuel pump manual lever in the same manner as you did with the secondary fuel filter. Just follow the fuel line from where it leaves the secondary fuel filter to where it enters the injector pump. Phil
Bob, I had the same problem and the book does not tell you to do this. The problem is you have to bleed the air out of the injector pump. That is why you cannot get fuel to the high-pressure fuel lines. On top of the pump, right where the low-pressure fuel line enters the injector pump you will see a small screw. Bleed the air off as you pump the primary fuel pump manual lever in the same manner as you did with the secondary fuel filter. Just follow the fuel line from where it leaves the secondary fuel filter to where it enters the injector pump. Phil
Bob: You never said what model engine you have on your Hunter 30. Assuming it is a Yanmar, go to www.yanmarhelp.com and drill down for instructions on bleeding several Yanmar model engines. As I recall Phil is correct, and bleeding the system involves both a bleed bolt on the fuel lift pump and one on the fuel injector pump.
Bleeding Solution
Looks like you now have to successfully complete two separate air bleeding operations. Firstly on the low pressure fuel side. As Phil says, you are not using the correct bleed point and still have air in the system upstream of the high pressure injector pump. Follow the fuel line from the externally mounted (low pressure) fuel lift pump (adjacent to the Yanmar engine mounted fuel filter and the oil dip stick)to where it appears to enter the engine block near the front of the engine on top of the high pressure injector pump. In the middle of this entry fitting there is screw (bleed valve). Back this screw out a few turns - I can't remember how many turns, but you can take it out completely to see how many turn it needs before it will allow fuel under pressure to flow out past it. Then start hand pumping using the external lever hidden around the side of the fuel pump. Do this for at least half an hour or until fuel starts to flow freely out of the bleed screw without passing bubbles - whichever comes first. The pump handle only seems to be effective on the very end of the lever travel. A terrible job. Make a mental note to next time fill everything you change out (ie filter bowls) with fuel before you re-fit them in order to reduce the amount of air that you have to bleed in this way. Retighten slackened bleed valve. Almost half way done now and all air should now be gone from the low pressure side of the fuel system. Now tackle the high pressure side - it sounds like you know how to do this already. Make a mental note to next time not touch the high pressure side at all when you are changing filters etc. You are just creating more work for yourself. The high pressure side only needs bleeding if you run out of fuel. Good luck PS I was told to always use vaseline to lube the pump impellor.
Looks like you now have to successfully complete two separate air bleeding operations. Firstly on the low pressure fuel side. As Phil says, you are not using the correct bleed point and still have air in the system upstream of the high pressure injector pump. Follow the fuel line from the externally mounted (low pressure) fuel lift pump (adjacent to the Yanmar engine mounted fuel filter and the oil dip stick)to where it appears to enter the engine block near the front of the engine on top of the high pressure injector pump. In the middle of this entry fitting there is screw (bleed valve). Back this screw out a few turns - I can't remember how many turns, but you can take it out completely to see how many turn it needs before it will allow fuel under pressure to flow out past it. Then start hand pumping using the external lever hidden around the side of the fuel pump. Do this for at least half an hour or until fuel starts to flow freely out of the bleed screw without passing bubbles - whichever comes first. The pump handle only seems to be effective on the very end of the lever travel. A terrible job. Make a mental note to next time fill everything you change out (ie filter bowls) with fuel before you re-fit them in order to reduce the amount of air that you have to bleed in this way. Retighten slackened bleed valve. Almost half way done now and all air should now be gone from the low pressure side of the fuel system. Now tackle the high pressure side - it sounds like you know how to do this already. Make a mental note to next time not touch the high pressure side at all when you are changing filters etc. You are just creating more work for yourself. The high pressure side only needs bleeding if you run out of fuel. Good luck PS I was told to always use vaseline to lube the pump impellor.
One more thought...
I did the exact same thing the first time I changed the fuel filters on my boat a few years ago. You're probably up and running by now, with the excellent ideas from the previous posts.... but if not, after bleeding the low pressure side through the secondary filter and then bleeding the injector pump, you can loosen the nuts on the injectors themselves, trip the decompression levers, and then crank the engine to purge any remaining air. Reset the decompression levers, and it should start. Also, rotating the engine (crankshaft)180 degrees might make the priming lever on the low pressure pump more effective if it doesn't seem to be doing much. I can't remember exactly why... but it worked for me. If you have a rubber 'bulb' installed in the fuel line between the tank and the primary filter/water separator, using that bulb to purge air from the primary filter after changing it (by removing a plug from the top of the filter housing) works exceptionally well. You can also purge air from the secondary (engine mounted) filter by squeezing the bulb, but you need someone at the engine to catch the fuel as it pumps out of the bleed screw, and to tell you when to stop pumping..., otherwise you get a big mess. I've never tried to use the bulb to bleed the injector pump, but it might work.
I did the exact same thing the first time I changed the fuel filters on my boat a few years ago. You're probably up and running by now, with the excellent ideas from the previous posts.... but if not, after bleeding the low pressure side through the secondary filter and then bleeding the injector pump, you can loosen the nuts on the injectors themselves, trip the decompression levers, and then crank the engine to purge any remaining air. Reset the decompression levers, and it should start. Also, rotating the engine (crankshaft)180 degrees might make the priming lever on the low pressure pump more effective if it doesn't seem to be doing much. I can't remember exactly why... but it worked for me. If you have a rubber 'bulb' installed in the fuel line between the tank and the primary filter/water separator, using that bulb to purge air from the primary filter after changing it (by removing a plug from the top of the filter housing) works exceptionally well. You can also purge air from the secondary (engine mounted) filter by squeezing the bulb, but you need someone at the engine to catch the fuel as it pumps out of the bleed screw, and to tell you when to stop pumping..., otherwise you get a big mess. I've never tried to use the bulb to bleed the injector pump, but it might work.
I have a bulb, it works.
I plumbed it just before the primary external filter. As Rick says, you need another set of eyes. I'm thinking of placing the bulb within reach/sight of the last bleed screw, but it would make for a longer run and the bulb would be in the hot engine room. Nah, never-mind.
I plumbed it just before the primary external filter. As Rick says, you need another set of eyes. I'm thinking of placing the bulb within reach/sight of the last bleed screw, but it would make for a longer run and the bulb would be in the hot engine room. Nah, never-mind.
Fuerl Bulb
On Feng Shui our 335 I had the fuel bulb. I placed it before the fuel filter right out of the tank. The process I used was to crack the bolt on the injector fuel line on the last injector. Place a fuel rag around the injector. Go to the bulb and pump and listen for the bulbing to stop(the fuel bulb has a check valve that will prenet backflow and air being sucked in). Then go an close the injector bolt. I have successfully bleed the system in minutes by my self. On one occasion we were leaving the dock and the engine started to starve and stall. I was able to open the the well with the fuel tank and pump enough fuel to to keep the engine running while we made quick to the dock. (shortly there after we replaced the old fuel tank buildup along with other issues)
On Feng Shui our 335 I had the fuel bulb. I placed it before the fuel filter right out of the tank. The process I used was to crack the bolt on the injector fuel line on the last injector. Place a fuel rag around the injector. Go to the bulb and pump and listen for the bulbing to stop(the fuel bulb has a check valve that will prenet backflow and air being sucked in). Then go an close the injector bolt. I have successfully bleed the system in minutes by my self. On one occasion we were leaving the dock and the engine started to starve and stall. I was able to open the the well with the fuel tank and pump enough fuel to to keep the engine running while we made quick to the dock. (shortly there after we replaced the old fuel tank buildup along with other issues)
no fuel no go 2
Thanks for the great advice folks. It sounds like the item I will try first is to locate and open the bleed screw on the injector pump itself. I have the 16HP 2Gsomething. I'll let you know what did it. And thanks again all. Has anyone ever messed with the engine align? Or should I pay someone to do it. From what I hear it can be a headache. Sail fast Live slow.
Thanks for the great advice folks. It sounds like the item I will try first is to locate and open the bleed screw on the injector pump itself. I have the 16HP 2Gsomething. I'll let you know what did it. And thanks again all. Has anyone ever messed with the engine align? Or should I pay someone to do it. From what I hear it can be a headache. Sail fast Live slow.
Marine Pro for Yanmar help
Bob After my co-owner and I had such a fun time doing this same task (turns out our fuel tank was full of gunk) we rigged up a "bleeding system" that uses a 12 volt auto fuel pump and some extra long hoses. That has been described extensively in this site so you may want to hit the archives when you're ready to tackle it. It is much more fun than pumping that little itty bitty pump handle for half an hour! And I notice you are in Cocoa? You are lucky because in this area, for Yanmar, the guys at Marine Pro (just down the road on 520) are the best thing since sliced bread for fixing Yanmars. They aren't cheap, you'll pay for mileage and time and all of that. But, they really, really know those Yanmar engines, and they are certified for Yanmar repairs and warranty work. And perhaps most importantly, they don't have an attitude against sailboaters like some mechanics seem to have. Having said that, a friend and I aligned our H27 after installing a PSS dripless shaft seal. It wasn't hard, but you have to be patient, and you'll need a feeler gauge. Our boat is very easy to do because we can just move the little ole 1GM by hand. Your engine may need some mechanical help to position the engine (e.g. an engine hoist or some kind of lifting rig). Regardless, I think you could manage it. Certainly if I was able to understand it, anyone can! Take care, Ron Vanderveer Dolphin Dancer, Melbourne Florida rvanderveer@bellsouth.net
Bob After my co-owner and I had such a fun time doing this same task (turns out our fuel tank was full of gunk) we rigged up a "bleeding system" that uses a 12 volt auto fuel pump and some extra long hoses. That has been described extensively in this site so you may want to hit the archives when you're ready to tackle it. It is much more fun than pumping that little itty bitty pump handle for half an hour!
And I notice you are in Cocoa? You are lucky because in this area, for Yanmar, the guys at Marine Pro (just down the road on 520) are the best thing since sliced bread for fixing Yanmars. They aren't cheap, you'll pay for mileage and time and all of that. But, they really, really know those Yanmar engines, and they are certified for Yanmar repairs and warranty work. And perhaps most importantly, they don't have an attitude against sailboaters like some mechanics seem to have. Having said that, a friend and I aligned our H27 after installing a PSS dripless shaft seal. It wasn't hard, but you have to be patient, and you'll need a feeler gauge. Our boat is very easy to do because we can just move the little ole 1GM by hand. Your engine may need some mechanical help to position the engine (e.g. an engine hoist or some kind of lifting rig). Regardless, I think you could manage it. Certainly if I was able to understand it, anyone can! Take care, Ron Vanderveer Dolphin Dancer, Melbourne Florida rvanderveer@bellsouth.netFuel Pump priming
On my hunter 31 someone installed a hand prime pump bulb, like you find between the gas tank and an outboard engine, and boy does this make a difference it is mounted between the fuel tank and the Racor filter, after changing the racor filter I just pump the bulb to fill the racor, now you need someone to bleed the fuel filter on the engine while you pump the bulb and this should also work getting the fuel to the injectors, but you will need an extra person or extremely long arms.
On my hunter 31 someone installed a hand prime pump bulb, like you find between the gas tank and an outboard engine, and boy does this make a difference it is mounted between the fuel tank and the Racor filter, after changing the racor filter I just pump the bulb to fill the racor, now you need someone to bleed the fuel filter on the engine while you pump the bulb and this should also work getting the fuel to the injectors, but you will need an extra person or extremely long arms.
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