Centerline has it right. Put that multimeter on 20V DC range. Clip the neg (black) to the neg post of the battery. Pos (red) probe to the pos on the battery. Voltage? (yes - you've already done that!). Pos probe on the positive bus of the fuse panel. Voltage? If yes, the problem is in the panel or further downstream. If no, the problem is in the wiring from the battery to the panel. And so on, working down the connections until you don't see voltage.
The negative side is a bit more tricky (and probably the problem!). Most systems don't use a proper negative bus-bar, relying on a spiderweb of connected black wires for the negative. Clip the pos (red) probe of the multimeter to the pos on the battery, then carefully find a negative post you can get at in, say, one of the lights. Oh - you said there's a light on the panel: that should have a negative attached to it. Again, work down the line until you don't see voltage.
DC wiring is not rocket science - a systematic troubleshooting procedure will find your problem.
(BTW: if your boat also has 120 VAC ("shore power") BE CAREFUL. The black on AC is HOT, while traditionally the black on the DC is negative. ABYC has changed the colour codes several times to address this, but most folks still use black for DC negative)
druid