New to me needs some work (advice)

JUUD

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Aug 25, 2021
19
Catalina C25 Redbud Marina, Oologah Lake
@JUUD Notice you said you'd be sealing everything. As most will tell you, silicone is not the best sealant for a boat and by and large you want to avoid silicone when you can. Many will say a No-No since once you put on silicone it is nearly impossible to remove and use something else making further sealing a real chore. I am sure others will chime in with suggestions. It depends a lot on what you are sealing. Best of luck with your project and I'm looking forward to pictures when you get her ship-shape.

By the way, don't use 3M 5200 as a sealant unless you want it permanent. It's an adhesive, not a sealant. There are lots of other appropriate sealants. 5200 is the Devil's glue.
I'm mostly going to be focusing on the deck hardware and hatches at first.
Waiting on my order of butyl tape to show up.
I will only be using the 5200 on places like where the decking meets the hull.
 
Oct 22, 2014
16,409
CAL 35 Cruiser moored EVERETT WA
Welcome @Judd, and congrats on the new to you boat.

You have been getting great advise and it looks like your already hard at work.

Good pictures.

It looks like the boat is floating. That in my mind is the first priority. You said she has been in a slip for the past 10 years, which is when she last had her bottom painted. I have always found that the worst water in a boat seeps in from below the water line. Sure your in fresh lake water, but all the same before too long you are going to want to take her out on the hard and look beneath her skirts at the thru hulls, the keel, the rudder, and generally the hull. Did a previous owner run her aground and not fix the boo boo. (We all run a boat aground at some time in our boat lives. If we haven't then we have not spent much time on the water.)

Sounds like the boat spent winters in the lake. If so you will want to look for ice damage.

It all woks out.
 
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JUUD

.
Aug 25, 2021
19
Catalina C25 Redbud Marina, Oologah Lake
Sure your in fresh lake water, but all the same before too long you are going to want to take her out on the hard and look beneath her skirts at the thru hulls, the keel, the rudder, and generally the hull.

Sounds like the boat spent winters in the lake. If so you will want to look for ice damage.
She'll be coming out this fall for that very reason.
I'm honestly dreading it but it's gotta be done.

She's definitely spent a few winters in the water.
I'm not so concerned about ice damage being in Oklahoma.
I'm more worried about the infamous "Catalina smile".
 
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Dec 25, 2000
5,104
Hunter Passage 42 Shelter Bay, WA
Just a note regarding 3M products. Our yard recommends 3M-5200 below the waterline and 3M-4200 above. Both have good and strong sealing and adhesion properties. Normally, you want a strong sealant below the waterline and something less above. Neither would I consider permanent; even 3M-5200. One wants to make sure that whatever is used below must never fail, else wise you lose your boat, FWIW.
 
Oct 26, 2010
1,462
Hunter 40.5 Beaufort, SC
Neither would I consider permanent; even 3M-5200. One wants to make sure that whatever is used below must never fail, else wise you lose your boat, FWIW.
Agreed - I was making a general observation, mostly related to the OP comment on sealing and not intending to take it out of the water on the hard until this fall, thus above the waterline. 5200 can be removed with some leverage and sometimes with a special solvent. Just don't use it on things that you may have to remove periodically like hatches, windows, ports, or winches and the like. A few new owners have made the intial mistake of using 5200 in some applications and then regretting it. Just a warning to a new owner to select your sealants and adhesives for the right purpose.
 
Jan 27, 2008
3,008
ODay 35 Beaufort, NC
I had a C25 for ten years. From my experience look at the following: The lower shrouds are only connected through the deck with what amounts to an eye bolt. I had one fracture due to crevice corrosion, it was leaking but not into the cabin so water with stainless caused crevice stress corrosion in the root of the threads and it snapped like a rifle shot one day while sailing. Didn't lose the mast, but I recommend you drill out the holes for a larger size eye bolt and replace them and seal with butyl. The nuts on the keel studs were pretty rusty, check those out and replace them. I cant see in your pictures where the chainplates attach to your bulkheads, but any sign of leakage or discoloration you should pull the chainplates and inspect them for corrosion, any water damage to the bulkheads you will need to replace them or repair them. The rudder gudgeons on mine loosened up and leaked, rebed them and use locknuts or jam nuts to keep from loosening. The very small clearance between the pintles and gudgeons can cause an annoying noise as the rudder moves with wave motion, sleeping in the quarter berth it is like the inside of a drum as the sound is amplified. Make sure it is a good tight fit or replace them. Catalina used gate valves for the sink drains, this is unacceptable for below water installations. Replace them with seacocks. My depth sounder transducer was mounted inside the hull with a water box. I ended up gluing the transducer directly to the hull and it worked great. Not a lot of room for a bimini as the boom goes back over the cockpit pretty far and is low. Watch your head while tacking, I used a boom tent (tarp) while at anchor for sun protection.
 
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JUUD

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Aug 25, 2021
19
Catalina C25 Redbud Marina, Oologah Lake
Thanks I appreciate the insight and will definitely check everything you listed.

I did take a look at the chain plates for the stays from the cabin before I bought the boat and they look to be in good shape, however I'll be pulling them out for a closer inspection when I go to replace the rigging.
 
Sep 24, 2018
1,532
O'Day 25 Chicago
There's some outstanding advise in this thread. I will add the following
  • We use baking soda, water and magic eraser sponges for cleaning. Baking soda, which is the main ingredient in bar keepers friend, does wonders on stains that I never thought would come out. I also use acetone when that fails. It evaporates too quickly for it to do harm to gelcote
  • Be careful with a pressure washer. You can blast away sealants without knowing it. I do like the idea of using it on the interior with care.
  • A shop vac, bilge pump and box fan are very useful when cleaning the interior. A shop vac filled with water can get very heavy. Extend the hose (I use discharge hose connected to the vac hose and sealed with electrical tape) so you can leave it in the cockpit or dock. You can also dry your cushions and woodwork very quickly with the fan
  • You should replace your standing rigging even if there are no obvious signs of damage. If money is tight, replace the uppers, fore and aft first. Check pricing at Catalina Direct as well as local riggers. There are many ways to raise and lower your mast without paying the yard
  • I believe the Catalina smile was only on the C30's because they used wood in/around the keel. I'm sure someone will chime in if this is incorrect
  • If you start to run out of steam on the project take her out on the water or work on a project that you want to do. Wet sanding my boat provided a lot of motivation to get other projects done
  • Rebuild your carb with a carb kit. 10 years is a long time for an engine to sit unused. Who knows if it was winterized before storage. Leave an anchor and rode in the cockpit in case the outboard decides to die while motoring until you feel that it is running reliably. Chances are you'll be in forward. if you have the anchor on the bow you'll have to leave the helm, run up to the bow to drop the anchor and after it sets the boat will swing around. Leaving the helm or the boat swinging could result in an accident. You can always bring the rode forward once you've safely stopped
 
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Jan 19, 2010
10,196
Hobie 16 & Rhodes 22 Skeeter Charleston
There's some outstanding advise in this thread. I will add the following
  • We use baking soda, water and magic eraser sponges for cleaning. Baking soda, which is the main ingredient in bar keepers friend, does wonders on stains that I never thought would come out. I also use acetone when that fails. It evaporates too quickly for it to do harm to gelcote
  • Be careful with a pressure washer. You can blast away sealants without knowing it. I do like the idea of using it on the interior with care.
  • A shop vac, bilge pump and box fan are very useful when cleaning the interior. A shop vac filled with water can get very heavy. Extend the hose (I use discharge hose connected to the vac hose and sealed with electrical tape) so you can leave it in the cockpit or dock. You can also dry your cushions and woodwork very quickly with the fan
  • You should replace your standing rigging even if there are no obvious signs of damage. If money is tight, replace the uppers, fore and aft first. Check pricing at Catalina Direct as well as local riggers. There are many ways to raise and lower your mast without paying the yard
  • I believe the Catalina smile was only on the C30's because they used wood in/around the keel. I'm sure someone will chime in if this is incorrect
  • If you start to run out of steam on the project take her out on the water or work on a project that you want to do. Wet sanding my boat provided a lot of motivation to get other projects done
  • Rebuild your carb with a carb kit. 10 years is a long time for an engine to sit unused. Who knows if it was winterized before storage. Leave an anchor and rode in the cockpit in case the outboard decides to die while motoring until you feel that it is running reliably. Chances are you'll be in forward. if you have the anchor on the bow you'll have to leave the helm, run up to the bow to drop the anchor and after it sets the boat will swing around. Leaving the helm or the boat swinging could result in an accident. You can always bring the rode forward once you've safely stopped
:plus: on the stern anchor... Here is how I have my stern anchor set up (see pic). The black tube has 10' of chain in the bottom and the rode is seen cleated to the fishing rod holder.... it runs outboard to the bow eye...

It takes me 15 seconds to uncoil the rode and toss the anchor off the stern. I use it all of the time.

Dressed up.JPG


@Project_Mayhem has some other good advice in there too. A reliable O.B. makes for a relaxing day on the water. One correction... the active ingredient in Bar keeper's friend is oxaylic acid. Backing soda is a good cleaner though. It is mildly basic and helps break up biological oils. Oxaylic acid oxidizes organic material and helps remove tannin stains. It also chelates with iron +3 (rust) and helps dissolve the rust stain. I tend to start with bar keepers and if that does not get the stain out, I go with baking soda... if that does not work I live with it or paint it.:biggrin: