This will be a long post so buzz on by it of your not interested in
removing the fuel tank.
I finally dug into the fuel tank removal process and wanted to
report back to anyone else who may face it. (this was all done to
replace a hose that had pulled free from the bilge pump. In my case
it was NO EASY TASK!
It was impossible on Whisper to get to all of the screws that hold
the mounting plate for the fuel lines onto the tank, let alone
remove them with the tank in place. So, I unhooked all of the
lines at the other end. There is one fuel line to the fuel pump,
one return line from the starboard side of the engine. (these are
both clear PVC tubing on my boat Not USCG approved I'm told) These
were easy to remove from the cockpit side after removing the cockpit
sole. Then there is a vent line (about 1/2" Braided metal jacket of
some sort.) Removal of this required my climbing head first into
the portside cockpit locker, maneuvering onto my back and reaching
up into the under side of the coaming to remove the fitting. Plan
on taking all the right tools the first time as this pretty much
sucks and you don't want to do it twice, especially on a 90 degree
july day. If I had broader shoulders I would never have fit in.
Next was the fuel fill line (about a 2" hose that looks similar to
an exhaust hose) I was able to reach this without climbing into the
locker but it wasn't that much more pleasant.
(at this point you also have to remove a grounding wire that grounds
the fuel filler port to the tank fittings and then to the engine.)
All that done, I was able to pull the plastic tank forward and tilt
it upwards to access the mounting plate better. I was still not
able to pull the tank out because the valve for the fuel supply
clear line would not clear the fiberglass lip of the cabin floor. I
was able to remove the ten or so screws that hold the mounting plate
on. (very tedious, much cussing involved)
Once those were removed maneuver the mounting plate in such a way to
remove it entirely and now the plastic tank was free of everything
except the other end of the fuel fill hose (which was completely
inaccessible.
IT STILL WOULD NOT COME OUT @#$^%&^%@$$! The fiberglass cabin floor
between the battery floor board and the bilge floor board was
preventing the tank from being lifted out. This was very
frustrating because by now I could see the Rule bilge pump
underneath it all but still couldn't reach it. The fact that it
said Rule told me that it was probably not original and that some
one at one time had figured out a way to get it down there. ( By
the way, I had removed the batteries by this point.)
The only way to remove the tank was to saw that part of the floor
out between the two floor boards. I debated with myself for a full
48 hours. I thought about installing a remote diaphram pump
somewhere else and just abandoning the Rule for ever. And even
bought the pump a sensor and all the hose.
It just bugged me to have a functional piece of equipment on board
and not be able to get to it to repair it or to retrieve objects
from the bilge or clean it out. Also in all the tugging and
pulling, I had pulled a clip-on ground connection off the filler
hose fitting to the tank which was impossible to reinstall with out
removing the tank.
That was the last straw! I returned the alternative pump arrangement
and broke out the saw. Once that piece was removed I could now
remove the tank. Under the tank were two pieces of about 1 inch
particle board blocks. I feel certain these were not original ALBIN
fittings, and they were probably installed for some reason when the
Rule pump was installed. Particle board in a bilge does not seem
wise to me, and in fact that is likely what made my tank removal
impossible without all the sawing.
I imagine that they got wet at one point and swelled which took away
the clearance needed to remove the tank. I was able to clean out
the bilge replace the hose and put everything back together
including a new grounding wire and everything is in working order.
I didn't replace the blocks under the tank. I'm sure there must
have been some reason for them but I don't see what it was and
everything seems to be working fine without them.
I think the Tank is designed to be removeable but it seems like it
would be very dificult with the floor in tact.
removing the fuel tank.
I finally dug into the fuel tank removal process and wanted to
report back to anyone else who may face it. (this was all done to
replace a hose that had pulled free from the bilge pump. In my case
it was NO EASY TASK!
It was impossible on Whisper to get to all of the screws that hold
the mounting plate for the fuel lines onto the tank, let alone
remove them with the tank in place. So, I unhooked all of the
lines at the other end. There is one fuel line to the fuel pump,
one return line from the starboard side of the engine. (these are
both clear PVC tubing on my boat Not USCG approved I'm told) These
were easy to remove from the cockpit side after removing the cockpit
sole. Then there is a vent line (about 1/2" Braided metal jacket of
some sort.) Removal of this required my climbing head first into
the portside cockpit locker, maneuvering onto my back and reaching
up into the under side of the coaming to remove the fitting. Plan
on taking all the right tools the first time as this pretty much
sucks and you don't want to do it twice, especially on a 90 degree
july day. If I had broader shoulders I would never have fit in.
Next was the fuel fill line (about a 2" hose that looks similar to
an exhaust hose) I was able to reach this without climbing into the
locker but it wasn't that much more pleasant.
(at this point you also have to remove a grounding wire that grounds
the fuel filler port to the tank fittings and then to the engine.)
All that done, I was able to pull the plastic tank forward and tilt
it upwards to access the mounting plate better. I was still not
able to pull the tank out because the valve for the fuel supply
clear line would not clear the fiberglass lip of the cabin floor. I
was able to remove the ten or so screws that hold the mounting plate
on. (very tedious, much cussing involved)
Once those were removed maneuver the mounting plate in such a way to
remove it entirely and now the plastic tank was free of everything
except the other end of the fuel fill hose (which was completely
inaccessible.
IT STILL WOULD NOT COME OUT @#$^%&^%@$$! The fiberglass cabin floor
between the battery floor board and the bilge floor board was
preventing the tank from being lifted out. This was very
frustrating because by now I could see the Rule bilge pump
underneath it all but still couldn't reach it. The fact that it
said Rule told me that it was probably not original and that some
one at one time had figured out a way to get it down there. ( By
the way, I had removed the batteries by this point.)
The only way to remove the tank was to saw that part of the floor
out between the two floor boards. I debated with myself for a full
48 hours. I thought about installing a remote diaphram pump
somewhere else and just abandoning the Rule for ever. And even
bought the pump a sensor and all the hose.
It just bugged me to have a functional piece of equipment on board
and not be able to get to it to repair it or to retrieve objects
from the bilge or clean it out. Also in all the tugging and
pulling, I had pulled a clip-on ground connection off the filler
hose fitting to the tank which was impossible to reinstall with out
removing the tank.
That was the last straw! I returned the alternative pump arrangement
and broke out the saw. Once that piece was removed I could now
remove the tank. Under the tank were two pieces of about 1 inch
particle board blocks. I feel certain these were not original ALBIN
fittings, and they were probably installed for some reason when the
Rule pump was installed. Particle board in a bilge does not seem
wise to me, and in fact that is likely what made my tank removal
impossible without all the sawing.
I imagine that they got wet at one point and swelled which took away
the clearance needed to remove the tank. I was able to clean out
the bilge replace the hose and put everything back together
including a new grounding wire and everything is in working order.
I didn't replace the blocks under the tank. I'm sure there must
have been some reason for them but I don't see what it was and
everything seems to be working fine without them.
I think the Tank is designed to be removeable but it seems like it
would be very dificult with the floor in tact.