I need help on how to DIY a repair to fix the sag around the mast boot. Here is the situation from bottom up. The compression post seams to be in great shape. The compression post base is glassed on three sides, the forward side is open and I thought it had rot, after scratching with my nail and a blade it feels smooth and hard but has a film of scum. The rest of the post is in great shape. Now to the noticeable problem, the bulkhead above the post is being pushed down, I have been told that there is a design flaw in this boat. Apparently the mast is not centered directly over the post and plat but it is slightly forward. Over time the wood core of the cuddy compresses and allows the front of the mast to sink. This sinking has caused a sink spot and caused the top of the fiberglass doorway to the head to drop jamming the sliding door. This is how I was going to fix it. I am going to raise my mast a few inches with a rig I have seen used on several other DIY's boats. It is a bit risky but I am a confident carpenter and like my design. This is where I need help. Once I raise the mast I was going to cut the top around the boot off till I reach dry rot free core wood. Let this dry for 1 week with it covered with a tarp and vented. The removed rotten wood will be replaced with an aluminum plate zinc cromated for corrosion. That will be filled in with wormed resin till all crevasses are filled, then finish it off with resin and cloth. Install a new mast boot. Lower mast. I don’t know how to fix the interior bulkhead but I was going to take it on after fixing the mast. This must be a DIY job and I need any help you can offer. $ is a big factor but I want this to be a permanent repair and want my boat to be safe. Thanks for anything information you can give.
Mast Sag
- Thread starter 200grandprix20465
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With $$ being a consideration you should consider
using Black Locust instead of aluminum for your core material. Depending upon which side you open, think about restoring the free movement to the head door before you start the repairs. Place a jack and post inside and push the deck up where it belongs. Then you can reinforce it(the area that the compression column should be supporting) and it will stay where you put it. If you can pay close enough attention to the work, uncover it during the hours of sunlight to hasten the drying. You can even slip the base of the mast forward or aft a few inches to gain some room. Just be sure that it is stable in its temporary position.
using Black Locust instead of aluminum for your core material. Depending upon which side you open, think about restoring the free movement to the head door before you start the repairs. Place a jack and post inside and push the deck up where it belongs. Then you can reinforce it(the area that the compression column should be supporting) and it will stay where you put it. If you can pay close enough attention to the work, uncover it during the hours of sunlight to hasten the drying. You can even slip the base of the mast forward or aft a few inches to gain some room. Just be sure that it is stable in its temporary position.
Black Locust or Aluminum? Opening Top Or Bottom?
Is the wood better than the aluminum? I happen to have a supply of aluminum 1/4"-1/2" thick so that particular item is very cheap, I would like to use the best product I can. I am not sure how to reinforce the door track and bulkhead after jacking it but I like the plan. I am going to open the top of the deck so I am able to flood the resin around the plate to fill all crevices. Am I looking at this repair correctly? Also if anyone can think of something I am overlooking please tell me.
Is the wood better than the aluminum? I happen to have a supply of aluminum 1/4"-1/2" thick so that particular item is very cheap, I would like to use the best product I can. I am not sure how to reinforce the door track and bulkhead after jacking it but I like the plan. I am going to open the top of the deck so I am able to flood the resin around the plate to fill all crevices. Am I looking at this repair correctly? Also if anyone can think of something I am overlooking please tell me.
Working solution
A sagging deck may not be caused by bad deck. My P33 had a similar problem; although not as extreme as yours. I found this when I tried to replace the sliding door after some interior painting. Could not find any indentation in the deck, just a level spot. Water did not and does not pool and deck wood is dry, by test. What I learned was, and I don't really understand this, the screws holding the bulkhead to the compression post had all broken. I did build a jacking system which separated the upper and lower door sill which helped align the screw holes somewhat. I compromised: A. increased the height of the compression post step, (removed old, replaced with new, glassed in place) B. separated the door sills with jack, C. Shaved just a bit off the door. Final result is about 1/16th shorter door and a little flat spot on deck which can only be found using a straight edge. Not listed above: don't forget to slack all standing rigging while doing repair. Hope yours works out as well. John 1969 P33 #114
A sagging deck may not be caused by bad deck. My P33 had a similar problem; although not as extreme as yours. I found this when I tried to replace the sliding door after some interior painting. Could not find any indentation in the deck, just a level spot. Water did not and does not pool and deck wood is dry, by test. What I learned was, and I don't really understand this, the screws holding the bulkhead to the compression post had all broken. I did build a jacking system which separated the upper and lower door sill which helped align the screw holes somewhat. I compromised: A. increased the height of the compression post step, (removed old, replaced with new, glassed in place) B. separated the door sills with jack, C. Shaved just a bit off the door. Final result is about 1/16th shorter door and a little flat spot on deck which can only be found using a straight edge. Not listed above: don't forget to slack all standing rigging while doing repair. Hope yours works out as well. John 1969 P33 #114
Good idea, ill check the screws
I have not checked the screws but I will. Unfortunately in my problem is much worse than yours. I have already opened the top and had substantial rot. Thanks for the ideas, I will look into it and I will photo and post my finished job.
I have not checked the screws but I will. Unfortunately in my problem is much worse than yours. I have already opened the top and had substantial rot. Thanks for the ideas, I will look into it and I will photo and post my finished job.
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