Have water intrusion where the aft cabin bunk deck meets the hull on the starboard side ONLY WHEN SAILING!!!!. Have checked the thru hulls, the aft lockers and the exhaust, all is dry. I found some suspect toe rail bolts which showed some rust discoloration. I pulled them and found water in the holes. I cleaned the hardware and let the holes dry out, caulked and replaced the bolts and nuts and caulked the tow rail seam on deck. Hosed it down to test for leaks. There was no water on the bunk deck. Went sailing. When I checked after about an hour the leak was back. ANYONE HAVE ANY SUGGESTIONS. Thanks, Pat
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Keep the rail out of the water
Hi Pat I would look at the toe rail in the area of the head for possible leaks or even farther forward.
Hi Pat I would look at the toe rail in the area of the head for possible leaks or even farther forward.
35.5 leak. Thanks Jim.....
....when I checked and found the leak, we were in easy conditions (10k max.)without driving the boat hard and the toerail not even near the water. However I thank you for the suggestion and I will work my way forward along the toerail and re-caulk as many fittings as I am able to.
....when I checked and found the leak, we were in easy conditions (10k max.)without driving the boat hard and the toerail not even near the water. However I thank you for the suggestion and I will work my way forward along the toerail and re-caulk as many fittings as I am able to.
Water Flows Downhill
(Duh?) Okay, so this is a dumb statement. But Jim's comment, I think, is a good one. Don't know how the 35.5 coach roof liner is set up but on the 35 it has a lip, which I call a gutter (for obvious reasons), next to the hull. Water can collect in the gutter and flow downhill. Other "liner-boat" water tricks is all you need is a depression somewhere in the overhead that can collect water, say from the traveler bolts? or?, and you tip the boat and bingo - water drips out somewhere else. P.S. Pat - I think Jim was pulling your chain with the "keep the rail out of the water" comment. After all, you did say it hapened only when sailing! Looked like a perfect set-up to me. I don't think I could have let this opportunity slide by either!
(Duh?) Okay, so this is a dumb statement. But Jim's comment, I think, is a good one. Don't know how the 35.5 coach roof liner is set up but on the 35 it has a lip, which I call a gutter (for obvious reasons), next to the hull. Water can collect in the gutter and flow downhill. Other "liner-boat" water tricks is all you need is a depression somewhere in the overhead that can collect water, say from the traveler bolts? or?, and you tip the boat and bingo - water drips out somewhere else. P.S. Pat - I think Jim was pulling your chain with the "keep the rail out of the water" comment. After all, you did say it hapened only when sailing! Looked like a perfect set-up to me. I don't think I could have let this opportunity slide by either!
Hey, John....
....I think you're right--I been had! However, I didn't think Jim had a sense of humor! (Just kidding Jim). I think you're right about this leak being somewhere above the toe rail. I'm going to have to re-bed everything! How about the companionway slide cover? Have you ever removed it? If so, what is under it? Did you use 4200 to re-bed? Thanks John, Pat N.B. New email address: p.spino@worldnet.att.net
....I think you're right--I been had! However, I didn't think Jim had a sense of humor! (Just kidding Jim). I think you're right about this leak being somewhere above the toe rail. I'm going to have to re-bed everything! How about the companionway slide cover? Have you ever removed it? If so, what is under it? Did you use 4200 to re-bed? Thanks John, Pat N.B. New email address: p.spino@worldnet.att.net
Companionway Slide Cover
Pat - no, I have never removed it although it should be relatively easy, at least on my H-35. There are probably a dozen or so screws to take out and the sealant seal around the perimeter would need to be broken probably with a sheetrock knife. To replace it I would use Dow 795 or 995 and really goop-up the screw holes before installing the screws. I prefer Dow 995 over 795 even though Hunter used 795 on our boat. At that time 995 didn't exist. 995 Spec Sheet: http://www.roancorp.com/dowspecs/dowcorning995.pdf 795 Spec Sheet: http://www.roancorp.com/dowspecs/dowcorning795.pdf The trivia for today is that Bayliner also uses Dow sealant on their boats. Don't know why West Marine doesn't sell Dow given that two large manufacturers use it but maybe they have too many SKUs already.
Pat - no, I have never removed it although it should be relatively easy, at least on my H-35. There are probably a dozen or so screws to take out and the sealant seal around the perimeter would need to be broken probably with a sheetrock knife. To replace it I would use Dow 795 or 995 and really goop-up the screw holes before installing the screws. I prefer Dow 995 over 795 even though Hunter used 795 on our boat. At that time 995 didn't exist. 995 Spec Sheet: http://www.roancorp.com/dowspecs/dowcorning995.pdf 795 Spec Sheet: http://www.roancorp.com/dowspecs/dowcorning795.pdf The trivia for today is that Bayliner also uses Dow sealant on their boats. Don't know why West Marine doesn't sell Dow given that two large manufacturers use it but maybe they have too many SKUs already.
Cockpit lockers
I had a similar condition on my 1990. I got water in the aft cockpit locker. The bulkhead between the cabin and locker was sealed tight except on the starboard side. Therefore, whenever the boat healed to starboard, the water would leak under the bulkhead. The previous owner had caulked this area, but did not fix the leak. Fix the leak, or the bulkhead will stay wet and rot.
I had a similar condition on my 1990. I got water in the aft cockpit locker. The bulkhead between the cabin and locker was sealed tight except on the starboard side. Therefore, whenever the boat healed to starboard, the water would leak under the bulkhead. The previous owner had caulked this area, but did not fix the leak. Fix the leak, or the bulkhead will stay wet and rot.
Hi Pat
I just couldn't resist pulling your chain. The only cabin leaks that I have had to fight were do to the stepped mast and the wiring. Ever so often I go around tightning the toe rail bolts.
I just couldn't resist pulling your chain. The only cabin leaks that I have had to fight were do to the stepped mast and the wiring. Ever so often I go around tightning the toe rail bolts.
Scubbers
I don't know if this will apply to your 35.5, but I had a simular leak on my 31 that would only occure while under power or sail. I found it was the cockpit scubber thru hulls leaking. These thru hulls are only under water when the boat is in motion or getting waves from the stern while in the slip.
I don't know if this will apply to your 35.5, but I had a simular leak on my 31 that would only occure while under power or sail. I found it was the cockpit scubber thru hulls leaking. These thru hulls are only under water when the boat is in motion or getting waves from the stern while in the slip.
John and Jim.....
...my boat has just developed the same leak at the mast where the wiring enters the boat. Need to caulk that, also. However, that's it. Port lights are good. Overhead hatches need new gaskets which I just ordered from Hunter. Aside from the aft cabin leak everything is O.K. Thanks for the heads-up about the Dow 995 caulk. There are a number of products that I am surprised to find that West Marine does not carry. I'm just about ready to leave for the trip South. The Rutland is working great as is the JRC 1500. (What did I do without Radar all of these years?) Peter, at Trillium, advises not to tie off the Rutland to stop it from spinning except for brief periods. I was wondering about the effects of a sustained heavy wind. We have had gusts over 50, but not sustained. My email will be shut down as of Sept 1st since we hope to depart from New Jersey (if the sun will ever shine again!) in early Sept. and hang around the Chesapeake for the better part of the month before starting down the ditch. Don't know how far we will get but hope to make the Keys and pop over to the Bahamas on the way back up North around April/May. Thanks to you both for lots of advice and direction. Mounting the radar on the transom was a smart move. The mounting system was built by Garhaur and is terrific. I also installed a Shakespeare SeaWatch TV antenna about a foot above the Radar on the 1" hoop. Looks a little like a space ship but it is functional; and easy to get at if need be. I grounded the mounting poles for the Radar and the Rutland to the keel with #8 wire. There I go rambling again. Thanks again, Pat
...my boat has just developed the same leak at the mast where the wiring enters the boat. Need to caulk that, also. However, that's it. Port lights are good. Overhead hatches need new gaskets which I just ordered from Hunter. Aside from the aft cabin leak everything is O.K. Thanks for the heads-up about the Dow 995 caulk. There are a number of products that I am surprised to find that West Marine does not carry. I'm just about ready to leave for the trip South. The Rutland is working great as is the JRC 1500. (What did I do without Radar all of these years?) Peter, at Trillium, advises not to tie off the Rutland to stop it from spinning except for brief periods. I was wondering about the effects of a sustained heavy wind. We have had gusts over 50, but not sustained. My email will be shut down as of Sept 1st since we hope to depart from New Jersey (if the sun will ever shine again!) in early Sept. and hang around the Chesapeake for the better part of the month before starting down the ditch. Don't know how far we will get but hope to make the Keys and pop over to the Bahamas on the way back up North around April/May. Thanks to you both for lots of advice and direction. Mounting the radar on the transom was a smart move. The mounting system was built by Garhaur and is terrific. I also installed a Shakespeare SeaWatch TV antenna about a foot above the Radar on the 1" hoop. Looks a little like a space ship but it is functional; and easy to get at if need be. I grounded the mounting poles for the Radar and the Rutland to the keel with #8 wire. There I go rambling again. Thanks again, Pat
Other Leak Sources in the Stern
Leak sources I found in the stern area are: Pedestal: Under the pedestal where the wires and cables from the pedestal go into the lazarette should be sealed well as there can be small spaces between the various items. Quadrant Cover: Hold-down screws should be sealed good. Pat - So Peter recommended NOT tying off the wind generator to prevent turning???? Wonder what the reasoning was - does it damage the slip rings or regulator? Or is he talking about in high winds so it doesn't put too much load on the blades?
Leak sources I found in the stern area are: Pedestal: Under the pedestal where the wires and cables from the pedestal go into the lazarette should be sealed well as there can be small spaces between the various items. Quadrant Cover: Hold-down screws should be sealed good. Pat - So Peter recommended NOT tying off the wind generator to prevent turning???? Wonder what the reasoning was - does it damage the slip rings or regulator? Or is he talking about in high winds so it doesn't put too much load on the blades?
Tying off Rutland
John - Peter gave two reasons for not tying off for extended periods of time. 1) Could cause the unit to sieze (slip rings maybe?); 2) Centrifugal action of rotation keeps water intrusion out of the generator. I don't know what his recommendation is about hight winds. Have to email him to find out. I'll keep you posted.
John - Peter gave two reasons for not tying off for extended periods of time. 1) Could cause the unit to sieze (slip rings maybe?); 2) Centrifugal action of rotation keeps water intrusion out of the generator. I don't know what his recommendation is about hight winds. Have to email him to find out. I'll keep you posted.
Mast Leaks
Pat, I drilled a 1/4 inch hole in the front of the mast just above the mounting ring. The ring is inside the mast. This lets the water out when the two little bitty holes on the ring plug up. I had to pull my mast a couple of years ago to finally fix the leak down the wiring tube. What a pain.
Pat, I drilled a 1/4 inch hole in the front of the mast just above the mounting ring. The ring is inside the mast. This lets the water out when the two little bitty holes on the ring plug up. I had to pull my mast a couple of years ago to finally fix the leak down the wiring tube. What a pain.
Mast Leaks....
Jim, I guess trying to force caulk up from under the mast, where the wiring bundle enters, didn't work? The drilled hole is a good idea.
Jim, I guess trying to force caulk up from under the mast, where the wiring bundle enters, didn't work? The drilled hole is a good idea.
35.5 mast leaks
Too impatient to wait for the next haul-out, I took a ~10 oz. tube of 5200, mounted it in a caulk gun and squeezed 1/3 of the tube into and inbetween every wire I could see. Testing with a hose, not a drop has made it through. Not looking forward to the glob of sealent I'll have to navigate when maintenance is needed.
Too impatient to wait for the next haul-out, I took a ~10 oz. tube of 5200, mounted it in a caulk gun and squeezed 1/3 of the tube into and inbetween every wire I could see. Testing with a hose, not a drop has made it through. Not looking forward to the glob of sealent I'll have to navigate when maintenance is needed.
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