Just a pic of my 310
- Thread starter SceptreSailor
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Mast Gate for Sail entry - spar
Hello Skipper Ken, I noticed in your picture that you did not go with in-mast furling. I am wondering how you rigged your mainsail with respect to the sail entry on the spar. Do you use a jackline or fit mast gates? It is not possible to tell from your photo. I know there was a post in one of the forums here several days ago about this subject. I am trying to decide which method to use for my 310 in Halifax Nova Scotia when I rig her out for sea in the Spring. I purchased her in Pickering last summer and sailed her down the Seaway. The previous owner rigged the mainsail while I was painting the bottom. BRegards, Chris at sea North of the Seychelles.
Hello Skipper Ken, I noticed in your picture that you did not go with in-mast furling. I am wondering how you rigged your mainsail with respect to the sail entry on the spar. Do you use a jackline or fit mast gates? It is not possible to tell from your photo. I know there was a post in one of the forums here several days ago about this subject. I am trying to decide which method to use for my 310 in Halifax Nova Scotia when I rig her out for sea in the Spring. I purchased her in Pickering last summer and sailed her down the Seaway. The previous owner rigged the mainsail while I was painting the bottom. BRegards, Chris at sea North of the Seychelles.
No Dodgers
Nice to see pictures of the C310's racing without the dodgers! They look so much better. I leave mine on most of the year, but try to leave it off during the nicest summer weather. The boat feels like it sails so much better without the windage of a dodger, but it's probably more psychological than anything.
Nice to see pictures of the C310's racing without the dodgers! They look so much better. I leave mine on most of the year, but try to leave it off during the nicest summer weather. The boat feels like it sails so much better without the windage of a dodger, but it's probably more psychological than anything.
Not offened
Did not see what you posted. i do agree with you that we need to get the 310 crew more involved, I have not received my FEB mainsheet yet.
Did not see what you posted. i do agree with you that we need to get the 310 crew more involved, I have not received my FEB mainsheet yet.
I need some measurements, PLEASE!
Ahoy, mates! I am taking delivery of a 2004 Catalina 310 #260 on Feb. 28th in Seattle. Finally! I want to replace the dripless with a PSS and would like to have it on hand so I can install in ASAP and minimize the yard fees but I need to know the the outside diameter of the stern tube to order.........according to my owners manual on page 56 the Packing/Coupling Assembly shows a 1" propeller shaft diameter and a 15/8 " ID for the Fabric Reinforced Hose. These are the two measurements I need to order the PSS. The drawing was revised- get this- on 10/21/94. Now how can that be for a 2004 boat? Anyway, is anyone with a 2004 Catalina 310 willing to measure their stern tube outer diameter for me? Or maybe someone knows. I am going to take pictures of replacing the packing gland and detail the process so those who want to replace theirs will have a guide. I will also do the same when I align my shaft. That should jumpstart this site! Anyway, thanks if you can help. If not I will just wait until the boat arrives and order it then. Cheers, Will
Ahoy, mates! I am taking delivery of a 2004 Catalina 310 #260 on Feb. 28th in Seattle. Finally! I want to replace the dripless with a PSS and would like to have it on hand so I can install in ASAP and minimize the yard fees but I need to know the the outside diameter of the stern tube to order.........according to my owners manual on page 56 the Packing/Coupling Assembly shows a 1" propeller shaft diameter and a 15/8 " ID for the Fabric Reinforced Hose. These are the two measurements I need to order the PSS. The drawing was revised- get this- on 10/21/94. Now how can that be for a 2004 boat? Anyway, is anyone with a 2004 Catalina 310 willing to measure their stern tube outer diameter for me? Or maybe someone knows. I am going to take pictures of replacing the packing gland and detail the process so those who want to replace theirs will have a guide. I will also do the same when I align my shaft. That should jumpstart this site! Anyway, thanks if you can help. If not I will just wait until the boat arrives and order it then. Cheers, Will
Will, there are pictures of a PSS installation....
Will, There are pictures of a 310 PSS install on my web site. The pictures are located here: http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/image/72621934 and here: http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/image/72621935 Just call PSS they know the diameter of the PSS to use on a Catalina. If my memory serves me correctly the stern tube is an 1 5/8 OD but PSS only makes an 1 3/4 and it fits well. Here's how to install just the PSS.. The process is fairly easy and the pics above may help. Day One: 1) Loosen the packing gland nut. 2) Loosen & remove the four nuts between the transmission and coupling. 3) Push the shaft towards the stern separating it from the transmission. 4) Spray the shaft and coupling with PB Blaster or Thrust. Do not use WD40 or Liquid Wrench these are NOT true penetrating oils. PB Blaster or a product called Thrust are incredible products!! Spray both the prop end of the coupling and the transmission end by sliding the shaft towards the stern tube. Then align the shaft upright and remove the seizing wire and two bolts that lock the coupling to the shaft. Next fill the two bolt holes with PB Blaster, wait a few minutes for it to absorb into the holes and repeat a few times. By hitting both ends of the coupling, and the center where the holes are, with PB Blaster, you will get better Penetration than just spraying the prop end of the coupling. Day Two: 5) Insert a deep drive socket that is slightly smaller than the shaft size between the center of the shaft and center of the transmission hub. 6) Insert four long FINE threaded bolts, preferably without shoulders (the part on longer bolts with no threads). Ignore the bolts in picture below as I did not need fine thread. This pic is for illustration purposes only. My boat was only a year old and the coupling was not that tough to get off compared to my last boat a 1986 where I did have to used FINE thread. Be sure to use washers between the coupling and trans hub and begin tightening evenly. Be sure to put never seize on the bolt threads to prevent galling it will also make it easier to turn the wrench. Coarse threads will not work as easilly on an old coupling so be sure to use fine threaded bolts. 7) Afer some initial tightening, and with the bolt pressure still on the shaft and coupling, you may need to go outside the boat and strike the prop shaft towards the bow, yes the bow, with a dead blow mallet to break it free. Use a scrap piece of maple between the malet and the shaft to prevent potential damage to the end of the shaft from the dead blow. Then re-enter the boat and continue tightening until the coupling is off the shaft. 8) Optional: Bring the coupling home and clean and paint it with a rust proof paint. If you have trouble getting the shaft and coupling apart you can heat the CENTER of the coupling very slightly with a blow torch (make sure you have an extinguisher on hand just in case) heating it in the CENTER will draw the PB Blaster into the coupling due to capillary heat draw. Use this as a last resort only. P.S. When re-installing the shaft and coupling apply liberal amounts of Tef-Gel mixed with Never Seize. Coat the shaft and the inside of the coupling and you'll be able to get it apart in the future! If the coupling does not want to come off the shaft with the above method, without serious overtightening, have a piece of 3/8 steel cut with the same hole pattern as the coupling. Use this pice of steel, with the socket in between, instead of the transmission output hub, to break the coupling free. The transmission output hub CAN be broken if you over tighten! This is why it is safer to break the coupling free by hitting it towards the bow and not the stern.. Do not forget to sand the shaft and remove any burrs before sliding the rotor face onto it. Inside the stainless steel rotor face are two o-rings. If you slide these o-rings over a burr you may cut them and have a leak! Use dish soap to slide the rotor onto the shaft after de-burring with wet sand paper or a small file if necessary. The shaft should be as smooth as glass when you rub your fingers on it. I put one of my wifes scrap nylons on my hand and rubbed the shaft with the nylon covering my fingers. If the nylons catch on any burrs more sanding is required. Be very careful to ONLY sand the burrs and not to reduce the diameter of the shaft or a wobbly coupling could occur. The burrs are usually along the "key way slot" & the "set screw holes" but could be other places too...
Will, There are pictures of a 310 PSS install on my web site. The pictures are located here: http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/image/72621934 and here: http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/image/72621935 Just call PSS they know the diameter of the PSS to use on a Catalina. If my memory serves me correctly the stern tube is an 1 5/8 OD but PSS only makes an 1 3/4 and it fits well. Here's how to install just the PSS.. The process is fairly easy and the pics above may help. Day One: 1) Loosen the packing gland nut. 2) Loosen & remove the four nuts between the transmission and coupling. 3) Push the shaft towards the stern separating it from the transmission. 4) Spray the shaft and coupling with PB Blaster or Thrust. Do not use WD40 or Liquid Wrench these are NOT true penetrating oils. PB Blaster or a product called Thrust are incredible products!! Spray both the prop end of the coupling and the transmission end by sliding the shaft towards the stern tube. Then align the shaft upright and remove the seizing wire and two bolts that lock the coupling to the shaft. Next fill the two bolt holes with PB Blaster, wait a few minutes for it to absorb into the holes and repeat a few times. By hitting both ends of the coupling, and the center where the holes are, with PB Blaster, you will get better Penetration than just spraying the prop end of the coupling. Day Two: 5) Insert a deep drive socket that is slightly smaller than the shaft size between the center of the shaft and center of the transmission hub. 6) Insert four long FINE threaded bolts, preferably without shoulders (the part on longer bolts with no threads). Ignore the bolts in picture below as I did not need fine thread. This pic is for illustration purposes only. My boat was only a year old and the coupling was not that tough to get off compared to my last boat a 1986 where I did have to used FINE thread. Be sure to use washers between the coupling and trans hub and begin tightening evenly. Be sure to put never seize on the bolt threads to prevent galling it will also make it easier to turn the wrench. Coarse threads will not work as easilly on an old coupling so be sure to use fine threaded bolts. 7) Afer some initial tightening, and with the bolt pressure still on the shaft and coupling, you may need to go outside the boat and strike the prop shaft towards the bow, yes the bow, with a dead blow mallet to break it free. Use a scrap piece of maple between the malet and the shaft to prevent potential damage to the end of the shaft from the dead blow. Then re-enter the boat and continue tightening until the coupling is off the shaft. 8) Optional: Bring the coupling home and clean and paint it with a rust proof paint. If you have trouble getting the shaft and coupling apart you can heat the CENTER of the coupling very slightly with a blow torch (make sure you have an extinguisher on hand just in case) heating it in the CENTER will draw the PB Blaster into the coupling due to capillary heat draw. Use this as a last resort only. P.S. When re-installing the shaft and coupling apply liberal amounts of Tef-Gel mixed with Never Seize. Coat the shaft and the inside of the coupling and you'll be able to get it apart in the future! If the coupling does not want to come off the shaft with the above method, without serious overtightening, have a piece of 3/8 steel cut with the same hole pattern as the coupling. Use this pice of steel, with the socket in between, instead of the transmission output hub, to break the coupling free. The transmission output hub CAN be broken if you over tighten! This is why it is safer to break the coupling free by hitting it towards the bow and not the stern.. Do not forget to sand the shaft and remove any burrs before sliding the rotor face onto it. Inside the stainless steel rotor face are two o-rings. If you slide these o-rings over a burr you may cut them and have a leak! Use dish soap to slide the rotor onto the shaft after de-burring with wet sand paper or a small file if necessary. The shaft should be as smooth as glass when you rub your fingers on it. I put one of my wifes scrap nylons on my hand and rubbed the shaft with the nylon covering my fingers. If the nylons catch on any burrs more sanding is required. Be very careful to ONLY sand the burrs and not to reduce the diameter of the shaft or a wobbly coupling could occur. The burrs are usually along the "key way slot" & the "set screw holes" but could be other places too...
Dripless in Seattle 
Hey you guys! Thanks. Those pictures of the PSS were just what I needed. And I guess I don't need to detail the installation process- mainsail's done that. I called PYI here in Seattle and gave them the measurements of 1" propeller shaft and 1 5/8" stern tube. They told me that the size to get was the 1 1/2" PSS- they have sold many for the 1 5/8" stern tube on Catalinas and it fits right on. So I ordered it from CatalinaOwners Chandlery for $183.00 and should be here by Saturday. Yes, the boat has been in a fresh water lake in Pueblo, CO with less then 40 hours on the engine so hopefully everything will come apart easily! I feel good about the decision to go with a dripless. Cheers! Will
Hey you guys! Thanks. Those pictures of the PSS were just what I needed. And I guess I don't need to detail the installation process- mainsail's done that. I called PYI here in Seattle and gave them the measurements of 1" propeller shaft and 1 5/8" stern tube. They told me that the size to get was the 1 1/2" PSS- they have sold many for the 1 5/8" stern tube on Catalinas and it fits right on. So I ordered it from CatalinaOwners Chandlery for $183.00 and should be here by Saturday. Yes, the boat has been in a fresh water lake in Pueblo, CO with less then 40 hours on the engine so hopefully everything will come apart easily! I feel good about the decision to go with a dripless. Cheers! Will
Good looking boat BTW
The other day the wife and I were down at the marina and we strolled past your 310. My wife thought your boat looked brand new! Great..........I don't even have my boat yet and she likes your boat better than mine! *cry
The other day the wife and I were down at the marina and we strolled past your 310. My wife thought your boat looked brand new! Great..........I don't even have my boat yet and she likes your boat better than mine! *cry
Jet City here I come
Paulj- Acquired the boat on a Lake Pueblo in Pueblo, Co. She is headed to Lake Union in Seattle, WA. A mere 1500 miles............
Paulj- Acquired the boat on a Lake Pueblo in Pueblo, Co. She is headed to Lake Union in Seattle, WA. A mere 1500 miles............
;D
Hey Jon, I couldn't find a good 310 fin keel- and I couldn't say no this boat! It's a 2004 pretty much full electronics, full canvas. etc. kept in freshwater with less than 40 hours on the engine. It hasn't been used in over a year. Owner kept her in beautiful shape. I'm a lover, not a fighter.........I mean a cruiser not a racer anyway. After reading all the threads and applying what experience I have had, I didn't feel like I would lose much by going with a wing. I'll be able to get into Lopez during low tide and get closer in on the docks at Friday Harbor! You'll just get there before me.......maybe. BTW, my boat is marooned in Oregon. With all this snow the highway's closed to over-sized loads. It's only 250 miles away and can't get here! It's killing me! Will
Hey Jon, I couldn't find a good 310 fin keel- and I couldn't say no this boat! It's a 2004 pretty much full electronics, full canvas. etc. kept in freshwater with less than 40 hours on the engine. It hasn't been used in over a year. Owner kept her in beautiful shape. I'm a lover, not a fighter.........I mean a cruiser not a racer anyway. After reading all the threads and applying what experience I have had, I didn't feel like I would lose much by going with a wing. I'll be able to get into Lopez during low tide and get closer in on the docks at Friday Harbor! You'll just get there before me.......maybe. BTW, my boat is marooned in Oregon. With all this snow the highway's closed to over-sized loads. It's only 250 miles away and can't get here! It's killing me! Will
Fin keel
Will I'm flying down Monday to LAX to look at the Catalina 310 listed in San Pedro,Ca. Nice looking boat you have....is this the boat that came with a trailer listed with the Anchorage broker in Co? paulj
Will I'm flying down Monday to LAX to look at the Catalina 310 listed in San Pedro,Ca. Nice looking boat you have....is this the boat that came with a trailer listed with the Anchorage broker in Co? paulj
Affirmative
That's the one. Never thought I'd be buying a boat in Colorado! When we told people we were in Colorado buying a sailboat they would look at us like we were crazy. You shouldn't get that reaction in San Pedro. Good luck! Keep us posted. Will
That's the one. Never thought I'd be buying a boat in Colorado! When we told people we were in Colorado buying a sailboat they would look at us like we were crazy. You shouldn't get that reaction in San Pedro. Good luck! Keep us posted. Will
PSS air vent tubing
I bought the PSS and will be installing it on my Catalina 310. I gather that now they only sell the high speed version and that they all have the hose barb fitting that you attach the vent hose to. No more burping! That's great but in reading over the installation directions it says to purchase "underwater rated" 3/8 inch ID hose for the air vent tubing and then to install it in such a way as to have the end of the hose 2 feet above the waterline- with no loops. Here's the exact wording: "Using a 3/8 ” ((8 or 9 mm)ID “underwater rated ” hose ((not provided with the PSS), connect the hose to the hose barb fitting installed on the carbon and secure the hose with two (2)hose clamps.Run the hose to a point in the boat at least two (2)feet above the waterline,making sure that the hose does not apply any load on the carbon part of the seal.Keep the hose as close as possible to the centerline of the vessel so the top of the vent hose is never below the waterline,even if the boat heels.Secure the hose in place with the necessary fittings that insure it will not pull free and drop.This hose is now a venting hose that will help ensure that no air is trapped in the seal. WARNINGS: Do not run a loop at the top end of the vent hose as it could start a siphon action in some extreme conditions.Also,make sure the vent hose is properly secured from falling below the waterline.If the vent hose were to fall down below the waterline, water would come in the boat.Also,do not plug or block the end of the vent hose,as this would prevent the line from venting." I don't know what the interior of my 310 looks like yet so I don't know the best way to go about routing the ventilation tube. I can figure that out. The question I have is about this "underwater rated" hose. I went to West Marine and they've never heard of it. I even Googled it with no success. They have a 3/8 inch reinforced tubing at West Marine that is rated at 250lbs burst pressure, but it says nothing about the appropriateness of using this hose below the waterline. It seems to me that the PSS is in essence basically a thru-hull fitting- so it is important to have the right hose- what have others used for the air vent hose? What route have they use in placing the hose to get 2 feet above the waterline, and how did they secure the end of the hose? Do you think this reinforced tubing is ok to use for below waterline applications. Thanks all. Will Soon to be owner of Cataline 310 #260
I bought the PSS and will be installing it on my Catalina 310. I gather that now they only sell the high speed version and that they all have the hose barb fitting that you attach the vent hose to. No more burping! That's great but in reading over the installation directions it says to purchase "underwater rated" 3/8 inch ID hose for the air vent tubing and then to install it in such a way as to have the end of the hose 2 feet above the waterline- with no loops. Here's the exact wording: "Using a 3/8 ” ((8 or 9 mm)ID “underwater rated ” hose ((not provided with the PSS), connect the hose to the hose barb fitting installed on the carbon and secure the hose with two (2)hose clamps.Run the hose to a point in the boat at least two (2)feet above the waterline,making sure that the hose does not apply any load on the carbon part of the seal.Keep the hose as close as possible to the centerline of the vessel so the top of the vent hose is never below the waterline,even if the boat heels.Secure the hose in place with the necessary fittings that insure it will not pull free and drop.This hose is now a venting hose that will help ensure that no air is trapped in the seal. WARNINGS: Do not run a loop at the top end of the vent hose as it could start a siphon action in some extreme conditions.Also,make sure the vent hose is properly secured from falling below the waterline.If the vent hose were to fall down below the waterline, water would come in the boat.Also,do not plug or block the end of the vent hose,as this would prevent the line from venting." I don't know what the interior of my 310 looks like yet so I don't know the best way to go about routing the ventilation tube. I can figure that out. The question I have is about this "underwater rated" hose. I went to West Marine and they've never heard of it. I even Googled it with no success. They have a 3/8 inch reinforced tubing at West Marine that is rated at 250lbs burst pressure, but it says nothing about the appropriateness of using this hose below the waterline. It seems to me that the PSS is in essence basically a thru-hull fitting- so it is important to have the right hose- what have others used for the air vent hose? What route have they use in placing the hose to get 2 feet above the waterline, and how did they secure the end of the hose? Do you think this reinforced tubing is ok to use for below waterline applications. Thanks all. Will Soon to be owner of Cataline 310 #260
PSS vent
I think I know what hose at West Marine you are referring too, and it would probably work. That type of hose is used on several of the thru hulls in the C310, for the sink drains etc... I don't think that this application is really that critical. There should not be any pressure involved, and my gut feeling is that PSS is just being extra careful in their recommendations, for liability purposes. You could look at something like this http://www.fisheriessupply.com/online/ln_menu/product.asp/Ntt/hose/product_id/257023/No/20e/mode/1/N/9065/Nty/1le/R/7674/act/A01/catalog_name/FISCO/Ntx/mode+matchpartial+rel+Inactive if you want to be extra careful. I think you can route the hose more or less directly aft and into the stern equipment area. Access is provided for the engine compartment venting hoses. You should be able to go alongside one of those. The hose would probably be best terminated up inside the forward surface of the transom. It's not too hard to get to. You'll probably want to be some what off the centerline. You could even tie wrap it to the holding tank vent hose upper fitting to make it easy. BTW- I don't know if you've done much shopping at Fisheries Supply (located in Mariners Square behind gasworks park) but I almost always prefer them to West Marine, and have for the last 10 years or so. If you join the local all Catalina fleet http://www.capsfleet1.com/ you can get a discount there. The fleet should be sponsoring a shopping night there in the next month or so, and you get an even larger discount. Good idea for major outfitting purchases. Call me or email and I'll let you know about how much of a discount. The $39 CAPS membership also includes a subscription to the Catalina Mainsheet Magazine. Now that you're a Catalina owner you can enjoy being in the "fleet" if you want too.
I think I know what hose at West Marine you are referring too, and it would probably work. That type of hose is used on several of the thru hulls in the C310, for the sink drains etc... I don't think that this application is really that critical. There should not be any pressure involved, and my gut feeling is that PSS is just being extra careful in their recommendations, for liability purposes. You could look at something like this http://www.fisheriessupply.com/online/ln_menu/product.asp/Ntt/hose/product_id/257023/No/20e/mode/1/N/9065/Nty/1le/R/7674/act/A01/catalog_name/FISCO/Ntx/mode+matchpartial+rel+Inactive if you want to be extra careful. I think you can route the hose more or less directly aft and into the stern equipment area. Access is provided for the engine compartment venting hoses. You should be able to go alongside one of those. The hose would probably be best terminated up inside the forward surface of the transom. It's not too hard to get to. You'll probably want to be some what off the centerline. You could even tie wrap it to the holding tank vent hose upper fitting to make it easy. BTW- I don't know if you've done much shopping at Fisheries Supply (located in Mariners Square behind gasworks park) but I almost always prefer them to West Marine, and have for the last 10 years or so. If you join the local all Catalina fleet http://www.capsfleet1.com/ you can get a discount there. The fleet should be sponsoring a shopping night there in the next month or so, and you get an even larger discount. Good idea for major outfitting purchases. Call me or email and I'll let you know about how much of a discount. The $39 CAPS membership also includes a subscription to the Catalina Mainsheet Magazine. Now that you're a Catalina owner you can enjoy being in the "fleet"
if you want too.
I'm Jealous!
Hate to say, my bottom could use some attention, but I'm putting it off for a while. Looking good! If it stops raining, maybe I'll ride down for a look see. This weather is killing me BTW- This is a good time of the year to get a new boat in my opinion. You'll have some time to get things sorted out before the main cruising season gets underway. I don't know about you, but it took me a little while to work out the nuances of the C310, coming from a 25 footer. I just reminded my wife yesterday that we took delivery of our boat 7 years ago on the 11th of this month!
Hate to say, my bottom could use some attention, but I'm putting it off for a while. Looking good! If it stops raining, maybe I'll ride down for a look see. This weather is killing me
BTW- This is a good time of the year to get a new boat in my opinion. You'll have some time to get things sorted out before the main cruising season gets underway. I don't know about you, but it took me a little while to work out the nuances of the C310, coming from a 25 footer. I just reminded my wife yesterday that we took delivery of our boat 7 years ago on the 11th of this month!- Status