Is it possible to add another wiring bundle tube?

Mar 26, 2015
84
Hunter 376 Marina del Rey
Hello captains.
I have a 1997 Hunter 376, Mer-Sea Beaucoup.
I need to run BlueTooth and a WiFi antenna cables from the panel to the port side stern locker (standard location). I’d like to have room to add wired in the future, as well.
please note that I’ve added a BT antenna at the cart table. It is marginally better than the existing stereo BT service, but is entirely unnacceptable.
The wiring bundle PVC conduit that runs from the panel to the port stern locker, is full. Not even a small size fish tape will fit between the existing wires.
I’ve attempted to run a fish tape, outside of the jam packed conduit, without success. Regardless of the fish tape insert point, it runs into something about 10 feet in. This may be because the steel tape, due to the distance of the run, slumps out of the intended path, into the space between the hull and molded interior features (head walls, as an example).
Has anyone had to address this problem? Is it possible that PVC conduit (because it is minimally flexible) could be inserted next to the existing conduit?
Thanks, in advance, for your enlightenment.
Tim
 
Feb 10, 2004
3,508
Hunter 40.5 Warwick, RI
Tim,
Maybe I can help-

I have a 1997 h40.5, almost a sister ship. My wiring runs along the starboard side between the aft stbd cockpit locker and my electrical panel. It sounds like your setup is similar except on the port side.
Also on the stbd side in the cockpit I have a large locker in the side and forward of the aft cockpit locker. You can see this locker closed in the first picture below. It is shallow and about 4 feet long.
I also have a PVC tube that holds the factory wiring running between the aft stbd cockpit locker and the electrical panel.
I needed to run a bunch of large wires for a generator that I installed in the aft stbd cockpit locker. Like you I tried a fish tape but had problems with jams. So what I did was to cut two access holes inside of the long cockpit side locker so that I could run the fish tape between areas that I could reach. You can see these two access holes in the second and third picture. Note that I also included a string so I could easily add future wires.
ONE CAUTION- if this setup is like yours and you decide to cut access holes, be absolutely sure that you are cutting into the interior wall of the locker and not into the outside fiberglass deck. Don't ask how I know this.....
Good luck; I hope this helps.

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Jan 18, 2021
45
Hunter 40.5 Burnt Store Marina
Old elect-chickens trick is a most dangerous game and one I have done a lot of my 40.5 as compared to Rich's safer (excluding holes in hull) method.

Undo a cable on the existing run you want to parallel.
Attach a messenger line to the existing cable.
Pull the existing cable back.
Connect a second messanger line to the existing cable and pull the existing cable back to it's original position using the first messanger line.
Use the second messanger line and some dish shop to pull the new cable through.

Damn the conduit fill ratios!
 
  • Wow
Likes: Rich Stidger
Mar 26, 2015
84
Hunter 376 Marina del Rey
Thank you captains!
Rich, I won’t ask, I promise!
I like your idea and will be so cautious that I may make holes in the forward and aft facing bulkheads, rather than the port (locker’s back) bulkhead.
SandyFrank (I’m guessing Frank),
I managed to fish a messenger through the conduit, with an eighth inch wide fish tape, barely. Unfortunately the cable I need to pull is coaxial, for at least 1 antenna. The change of dragging the clax with the fitting, through the jam packed conduit is zero. I’m not willing to buy the fitting connection tools for a one or two time job so Rich’s plan is likely to win the day.
With any luck I’ll remember to post the results!
Happy Thanksgiving!
Tim
 
Feb 10, 2004
3,508
Hunter 40.5 Warwick, RI
<snip>
I like your idea and will be so cautious that I may make holes in the forward and aft facing bulkheads, rather than the port (locker’s back) bulkhead.
<snip>
I think if you look closely at my pictures you will see that the right location for the holes is on the back near the bottom of the locker. I am assuming that the design is very similar if not identical to my 40.5.
In any event, measure the height to a common point and satisfy yourself that you are drilling where you should be. Holes in the end bulkheads are not likely to give you the access you need along the back wall. If you have one of those fancy devices that can look into walls and find wires, pipes, and rodents, that could be a good method.
 
Jun 27, 2021
9
Hunter 376 Midland
A couple years back I came across a thread on this site from an H376 owner who created a blog about his boat. They did just what you are asking about. Here is a link to the specific blog notes from ’Life On The Hook’ for adding an extra conduit.


I‘ve been quite impressed by the detail he provided for many of his projects on the boat. I’ve got it book marked and refer to it from time to time as I look to do things on our own boat.
 
Mar 26, 2015
84
Hunter 376 Marina del Rey
Thank you Rob.
You are right about the detail they put in their blog. I installed my spinnaker pole track assembly based on a Life On The Hook post.
Unfortunately all of my attempts to run my fish tape from the lazarette to the breaker panel and the reverse, panel to lazarette, have failed. The tape runs into something solid about 8 ft. in but, based on the blog, I‘ll give it a few more attempts.
If my fish tape efforts fail I’ll take the route Rich Stidger used on his Hunter 40.5.
Fair Winds,
Tim Hollar
 
Mar 26, 2015
84
Hunter 376 Marina del Rey
Gentlemen,
Success! I followed RobHntr376 link to “Life on the Hook” blog which was very informative. I used 1-1/2” flex tube. I should have bought 1-1/4”. The job would have been much easier.
There are several bulkheads that intrude into the path of the conduit (to varying degrees) between the breaker panel and the port lazzerette bulkhead .
A “fish stick” was used to pull a messenger line. Then I veered from the Life on the Hook plan a bit.

I center drilled a hole then cross drilled a 1-1/2” (major diameter) tapered bung. ThEn I fed the messenger line through the hole in the small end of the bung and out the cross drilled hole, and knotted it. The large end of the bung was then inserted into the flexible tube. The joint was taped creating a tapered leading end to ease pulling the tube through the tight quarters between the deck and interior molds and the intruding bulkheads.

It was still a major wrestling match. The job spanned 2 days, but probably amounted to 8 hours af actual labor.

It was necessary to use every access point into the small space available for the tube. Lictures are attached.
 

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Mar 26, 2015
84
Hunter 376 Marina del Rey
Thank you. It was anything but fun!
I recommend 1-1/4” flex tube, rather than 1-1/2” that I used. A bung (or other tapered piece of wood) should fit the ID of the tube. It should taper to a 1/4” Dia. point (only large enough to accept a drill for the messenger line). This, because the 3/4” Dia. end of the bung I used still got hung up on a couple of the hard to reach intruding bulkheads.
If these suggestions are employed I am certain that the procedure I used would be simple and not nearly so time consuming.
Kind Regards,
Tim