Putting a wind indicator on my H34 now that the mast is down, My question is the wiring through the mast base, I have one of the first hulls and I have the big black mast holder on the deck, do I need to unbolt this and lift or just carve out all the caulk around the existing wires and snake the new one in, then where can you grab this wire to pull it where it needs to go? Any input would be appreciated. I plan to install the xducer on the mast top next to the light, what is the best way to run that wire, I know there is a wire track inside the mast where my antenna and light wires are, but I dont know if there is room to fit another. More input please.
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Hi Dave, you probably don't want to hear this...
but our new-to-us boat (1991 P42) came with an electronic wind indicator but no Windex. I installed a Windex last year while the mast was down. I'll take it along with shroud telltales any day over an electronic one. Our P42 had room to spare in the mast conduit, but I did not add wires to ours. However, I would recommend that you run the wires through a piece of plastic conduit throught the coach roof rather than the way you explained they are today. Your boat should have a panel at the top of the compression post that covers the wires coming through the coach roof. I would follow the same route. You can use an existing wire to fish the new wire. If you do install a piece of conduit through the coach roof be sure to leave at least three to four inches of it extending above the step plate. This creates a dam to force the rain water out through the weep hole in your plate. Also, make sure the weep hole is clear. Ours was located on the front edge of the plate. I sealed the new piece of conduit with 5200 where it goes through the coach roof and left the wires through the conduit unsealed. The leak that I had is now fixed. Terry
but our new-to-us boat (1991 P42) came with an electronic wind indicator but no Windex. I installed a Windex last year while the mast was down. I'll take it along with shroud telltales any day over an electronic one. Our P42 had room to spare in the mast conduit, but I did not add wires to ours. However, I would recommend that you run the wires through a piece of plastic conduit throught the coach roof rather than the way you explained they are today. Your boat should have a panel at the top of the compression post that covers the wires coming through the coach roof. I would follow the same route. You can use an existing wire to fish the new wire. If you do install a piece of conduit through the coach roof be sure to leave at least three to four inches of it extending above the step plate. This creates a dam to force the rain water out through the weep hole in your plate. Also, make sure the weep hole is clear. Ours was located on the front edge of the plate. I sealed the new piece of conduit with 5200 where it goes through the coach roof and left the wires through the conduit unsealed. The leak that I had is now fixed. Terry
H34 Mast Wiring
The wiring coming down from the mast should go through the caulk as you describe. Unfortunately, on the inside the wire is hard to run. The door jamb on the head / which is the front of the center post has to be removed to get to the wires. From there the wiring usually goes all the way to the bilge and is run along the starboard side of the boat to the back where you can bring it up and feed it across the starboard lazerette and then to where ever the instrument head is located. Be absolutely certain that the wire is sealed at the point it enters the cabin top under the mast. If water gets in there, it will rot the wooden crossmember that is inside the fiberglass.
The wiring coming down from the mast should go through the caulk as you describe. Unfortunately, on the inside the wire is hard to run. The door jamb on the head / which is the front of the center post has to be removed to get to the wires. From there the wiring usually goes all the way to the bilge and is run along the starboard side of the boat to the back where you can bring it up and feed it across the starboard lazerette and then to where ever the instrument head is located. Be absolutely certain that the wire is sealed at the point it enters the cabin top under the mast. If water gets in there, it will rot the wooden crossmember that is inside the fiberglass.
The conduit is there
The conduit is there at the base of the mast, I guess I will dig out the caulk. What about the wire down the mast?
The conduit is there at the base of the mast, I guess I will dig out the caulk. What about the wire down the mast?
Wireless!!!!!!!!!!
I can't remember the name of the company but in the last issue of Sail Magazine a company was offering a wireless wind indicator. It uses solar for power and radio for the gauge at the helm. I need the same for my 34 and will wait for the wireless as soon as I can find a place to buy it.
I can't remember the name of the company but in the last issue of Sail Magazine a company was offering a wireless wind indicator. It uses solar for power and radio for the gauge at the helm. I need the same for my 34 and will wait for the wireless as soon as I can find a place to buy it.
Done It
Was in the same situation two years ago (34 Hunter 1984). We had the mast down and decided to add a wind indicator. We dug out all the old caulk in the pvc tube that goes from the deck into the mast post in the bathroom. Be gently as the tube is brittle. Before running new wire you need to seperate the post. Take out the door in the bathroom to get to it. Take the plugs and screws out next. Then gently seperate the two pieces to your mast post. All the wires run from the mast thru a channel inside to the bildge area. Also a great time to check for mast post problems. At the end we just caulked the tube back up. But one problem occurs. Before sealing we had to hang the mast above the cabin, then run the wires to the control unit, then quickly seal and then put the mast back on. Make sure that before they put all the weight back on the cabin you put your mast base back together. Hope this helps Mike
Was in the same situation two years ago (34 Hunter 1984). We had the mast down and decided to add a wind indicator. We dug out all the old caulk in the pvc tube that goes from the deck into the mast post in the bathroom. Be gently as the tube is brittle. Before running new wire you need to seperate the post. Take out the door in the bathroom to get to it. Take the plugs and screws out next. Then gently seperate the two pieces to your mast post. All the wires run from the mast thru a channel inside to the bildge area. Also a great time to check for mast post problems. At the end we just caulked the tube back up. But one problem occurs. Before sealing we had to hang the mast above the cabin, then run the wires to the control unit, then quickly seal and then put the mast back on. Make sure that before they put all the weight back on the cabin you put your mast base back together. Hope this helps Mike
Hey Mike
Why didnt you cut the wires for the windex at the end of the mast and put a quick connect splice in place like the light and antenna wires?
Why didnt you cut the wires for the windex at the end of the mast and put a quick connect splice in place like the light and antenna wires?
Doing it now!
Three types of wiring goes through this short piece of conduit but all of them do not travel down the compression post. The antenna wire enters the top of the pipe and exits out the port side of the pipe through a hole in the pipe wall. The coax travels towards the port side inside the box beam that is supported by compression post. I pulled one of the bullet lamps and found the coax inside the wire chase. The coax takes a right turn at the cabin wall and travels through the fore and aft box area on the port wall. This is the same beam that has the electrical outlets and wiring. The 12 volt wiring goes down the compression post with the windex wiring and exits the post just above the fiberglass box beam that supports the base of the compression post. These wires exit the post behind the holding tank. The windex wire goes behind the tank toward the starboard side and follows the water pipes toware the stern. The wire goes through the battery compartment and up through the wheel fittings to reach the indicators. I have hot followed it all the way aft so I am making an educated guess on some of the route. The 12 volt wire and the #10 mast ground exit the side of the post and make a hard turn to go under the tank and through a 1" hole in the cabin floor. The ground runs to a 1/4-20 screw in the stainless plate next to the aft keel bolts. I have not followes the 12 volt wires to the DC panel but I know the go there as I measured them with a meter. As long as you have everything apart be sure you check for corrosion. The seal on the mast step held very well and the plug in the pipe did its' job, the wires are undersized copper that is not tinned. I found corrosion that wicked over 14 inches down one of the 12 v wires and completely are the coax center conductor in to. Guess that explains why I could not reach any one on the radio. The attached picture is the top of my post after I chopped out some of the wall of the head. I marked the left edge of the post cap and cut just enough so I could get to the wires without taking out the wall but the cap will completely cover the cuout. With the mast off I was able to gently shove the post aft so I had more room to work on the wires. With the post wher it belongs the top od the post covered 3/4 of the conduit opening and I could not move any wires as thy were pinched very badly. After I pulled out all the wires and pulled in some pull strings I carefully ground some releaf space on the edge of the conduit and fiberglass so the wires will have a little more room to exit into the post. I did not cut into the wood post as I did not want to remove any structural support. While I have this all apart I am replacing everything except the ground wire although I replaced the connectors on each end to remove the corrosion. I have not attacked the mast as I will not get to that for at least two more weeks. Hope this information helps. Fair winds.
Three types of wiring goes through this short piece of conduit but all of them do not travel down the compression post. The antenna wire enters the top of the pipe and exits out the port side of the pipe through a hole in the pipe wall. The coax travels towards the port side inside the box beam that is supported by compression post. I pulled one of the bullet lamps and found the coax inside the wire chase. The coax takes a right turn at the cabin wall and travels through the fore and aft box area on the port wall. This is the same beam that has the electrical outlets and wiring. The 12 volt wiring goes down the compression post with the windex wiring and exits the post just above the fiberglass box beam that supports the base of the compression post. These wires exit the post behind the holding tank. The windex wire goes behind the tank toward the starboard side and follows the water pipes toware the stern. The wire goes through the battery compartment and up through the wheel fittings to reach the indicators. I have hot followed it all the way aft so I am making an educated guess on some of the route. The 12 volt wire and the #10 mast ground exit the side of the post and make a hard turn to go under the tank and through a 1" hole in the cabin floor. The ground runs to a 1/4-20 screw in the stainless plate next to the aft keel bolts. I have not followes the 12 volt wires to the DC panel but I know the go there as I measured them with a meter. As long as you have everything apart be sure you check for corrosion. The seal on the mast step held very well and the plug in the pipe did its' job, the wires are undersized copper that is not tinned. I found corrosion that wicked over 14 inches down one of the 12 v wires and completely are the coax center conductor in to. Guess that explains why I could not reach any one on the radio. The attached picture is the top of my post after I chopped out some of the wall of the head. I marked the left edge of the post cap and cut just enough so I could get to the wires without taking out the wall but the cap will completely cover the cuout. With the mast off I was able to gently shove the post aft so I had more room to work on the wires. With the post wher it belongs the top od the post covered 3/4 of the conduit opening and I could not move any wires as thy were pinched very badly. After I pulled out all the wires and pulled in some pull strings I carefully ground some releaf space on the edge of the conduit and fiberglass so the wires will have a little more room to exit into the post. I did not cut into the wood post as I did not want to remove any structural support. While I have this all apart I am replacing everything except the ground wire although I replaced the connectors on each end to remove the corrosion. I have not attacked the mast as I will not get to that for at least two more weeks. Hope this information helps. Fair winds.
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Thanks for the info
Thanks for the info, I was at the boat today and pulled things apart to take a good look, My H34 is a 1983 hull#35, my compression post looked GREAT, I was thinking I was in for a replacement job but to my surprise. I have found that I can run the fish guide down the tube from the top to string the wire down the back of the post. Then I will follow the same course yours took. Then I will fish the wire down the mast, should have it all done next week. Thank God, will I'm pulling wire I am replaceing the holding tank and all hoses, starting to stink.
Thanks for the info, I was at the boat today and pulled things apart to take a good look, My H34 is a 1983 hull#35, my compression post looked GREAT, I was thinking I was in for a replacement job but to my surprise. I have found that I can run the fish guide down the tube from the top to string the wire down the back of the post. Then I will follow the same course yours took. Then I will fish the wire down the mast, should have it all done next week. Thank God, will I'm pulling wire I am replaceing the holding tank and all hoses, starting to stink.
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