I need help

Jan 4, 2006
3,914
Hunter 310 West Vancouver, B.C.
I agree with replacing all hose because as you say "it's probably all overdue at 25 years". Forget the tank as you say it's plastic. Won't corrode.

All the above is food for thought but again, as you say, running the line from the toilet to the tank is your real bug bear. I've done it and it's doable, but it's not fun. Short of taking the boat apart, the only way to do it is:

1. Attach a 1/4" nylon string to the hose as a fish line. Bore a hole in the hose for attachment.
2. Start pulling the hose from either end, whichever is easier BUT be sure that you will finish with the fish line where the hose was. Make sure you understand this before moving on. If you get it wrong, the only solution is a new boat :banghead:.
3. I would suggest using RaritanSaniFlex hose due to it's high flexibility as per @Peggie Hall HeadMistress . You will need it .
4. You will now attach the 1/4" nylon to the RaritanSaniFlex hose with extreme care. Lose the fish line and it's all over except for the crying.
5. Try to make the attachment to the hose as smooth (and strong) as possible. I've had the best luck with driving a conical plug deep into the hose and then connect with a screw eye. Cover the whole mess with tight duct tape to make it smooth.
6. Start pulling, rotating and praying for all you're worth :eek:.

Needless to say, test the cord attachment to the hose by pulling with all you've got to be sure it'll hold.

If disaster should strike and the hose seizes, purchase a WiFi borescope (Amazon) for about $20.00 to see where the hose is stuck. You can pair the scope with your cell phone to get an excellent view.
 
Last edited:
Jan 4, 2006
3,914
Hunter 310 West Vancouver, B.C.
A PS for post #22 ................... always use a hair drier when attacking old hose fittings. And always use a non-petroleum lube such as Super Lube when reassembling new hose fittings.
 
Oct 16, 2021
13
hunter 376 hamilton
Thank you all for your suggestions. Please don’t think this rude however aside from one reply it sure does appear that no one has an answer to the question.
all I was asking is if anyone has done it specifically on this make and model of boat and how did you access the hose the rest I am good but thank you again for your opinions.
 
Feb 14, 2014
5,718
Hunter 430 Waveland, MS
all I was asking is if anyone has done it specifically on this make and model of boat
That is a tall order on the H376 info from the helpers here.

Just how many H376 that have been sailing on the Great Lakes ?

Several people told you how to pull and replace that long hose run.

Please don’t think this rude [nope you have done well]:biggrin:
Since you are new to this site, helpers abound here.

You have heard from the BEST helpers on your posted thread.

Plus remember to post back on this Thread , what actions you take, so other H376 owners hear your solutions.

Welcome to...
HunterOwners.com downloads

Every major sailboat has it own link to this same site.
Good luck...
Jim...

PS: Purchases from this site helps fund the Site Owners.;)
 
Oct 16, 2021
13
hunter 376 hamilton
Update

so as it turns out you need to take apart the port side of the aft cabin to access the hose. Due to the bend it makes between the head and cabin, the old hose would pull through ( and I don’t think pulling the new would have gone either.
still working on getting this out but thought I would update in case someone else tries this
Apparently the previous owner at some point decided to stuff the area under the seat with dryer sheets because it must have smelled to him as well lol.
 

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Oct 22, 2014
16,146
CAL 35 Cruiser moored EVERETT WA
One piece of insight I learned from Peggie, you want the line to rise after the toilet and then descend to the holding tank. The typical toilet pump has the ability to push your effluent up and over the loop. This means gravity is helping you to deposit the effluent into the holding tank and not sitting around in the hose to stink up the boat.
 
Dec 2, 1997
8,132
- - LIttle Rock
One piece of insight I learned from Peggie, you want the line to rise after the toilet and then descend to the holding tank. The typical toilet pump has the ability to push your effluent up and over the loop. This means gravity is helping you to deposit the effluent into the holding tank and not sitting around in the hose to stink up the boat.
I think that needs a little clarifying... If it's an uphill run from the toilet to the tank and/or the toilet discharge line to the tank is longer than about 6', it can be very helpful to aim the toilet discharge fitting straight up to run the discharge line up and over a loop...doesn't have to be a vented loop, just a loop that's slightly higher than the top of the tank. Any manual or electric toilet in good working order should be able to lift bowl contents up to 4'. This not only provides needed help from gravity to get the flush all the way to the tank, but you only have to flush long enough move it over the top of the loop, which reduces the amount of flush water needed. At least once a day, flush a quart of clean water --fresh using a jug if possible--to rinse the discharge line.

--Peggie
 
Jan 1, 2006
6,101
Slickcraft 26 Greenport, NY
I think that was the case for my H356. The run from the loop was way more than 6'. More like 12 +. So, there was also sag in the hose because it was run underneath the aft berth. I believe that was a mistake. It would have been better to run the waste hose along a side of the boat on a continuous slope to the holding tank. Despite flushing the line with fresh water before leaving the boat the hose did permeate.
 
Dec 2, 1997
8,132
- - LIttle Rock
So, there was also sag in the hose because it was run underneath the aft berth. I believe that was a mistake. It would have been better to run the waste hose along a side of the boat on a continuous slope to the holding tank.
It WAS a mistake and solidifies my opinion that boat builders are the WORST sanitation system plumbers (I refuse to believe there's any design to their systems) on the planet! It may be easier than you think to re-route it to make sense.

--Peggie
 
Oct 16, 2021
13
hunter 376 hamilton
Day three update
Well I have taken apart the aft wet locker. Taken the chair next to it our. Trying to get the cabinets taken apart but not having much luck finding how they are attached. Still have not gotten this hose out. What a nightmare. Being a live aboard I have seriously run out of space and the high winds and rain last couple days have eliminated using the docks to stope anything.
anyone want a good deal on a boat that smells like a sewer.
if nothing else I can say that I have taken an odour and turned into a vial smell since everything has been disconnected trying to get this out of here.
 
Oct 22, 2014
16,146
CAL 35 Cruiser moored EVERETT WA
Well sounds like you have been living the Trials of Job.

Not sure where you are that the wind has been debilitating. The location appears to be Berlin, but little water there for sailing.

Perhaps since this is your home you need to embrace the challenge. It is always worse before it gets better.
 
Jan 1, 2006
6,101
Slickcraft 26 Greenport, NY
Be stout of heart and carry on. Boat sanitation projects are rarely pretty. Or odor free. You are going to get dirty. Some of the hoses may be zip tied to the hull. A cluster F**k if not accessible. A lot of times the plumbing is run before the cabin furniture is installed and before the deck is set. So... A lot of times you can re-configure the system rather than try to re-do a bad design. While living abroad, in a rainy pattern ..... Ugh!
 
Oct 26, 2008
5,021
Catalina 320 Barnegat, NJ
Both times I changed out a toilet, the toilet was a major source of smell, and it didn't matter that both looked clean, like they were new. They still smelled bad. Both times I eliminated toilet smell, I did it by doing exactly as you plan. Change the toilet, all hoses, macerator pump & vent. My first time, I was worried that I would need to change the tank. That was going to be a big problem and it turned out that I didn't need to - what a relief! I've got some remnant smell in my latest boat under the salon cushions after replacing everything except the tank. This winter, I will pull everything out except the tank, clean and deodorize with PureAyre. It's easier said than done. I have to remove 3 batteries (2 4D size) and spaghetti bowl of cables. :facepalm:
 
Oct 16, 2021
13
hunter 376 hamilton
Update
Well after 4 days of removing items along with cutting a larger hole, the old hose is out and the new one is in. The new toilet is in and working after a slight issue ( no valve from the factory ) and the business end looks to be done. I am working on the vent hose but will be leaving the pump out hose as the only access to back of the tank so far is to cut out a bunch of fibreglass and redo it.
after several hours of scrubbing everything I could follow by several application of odoban the smell is either 95% gone or I’m just becoming accustom to it lol. Fingers crossed this will be behind me for another several years soon. I remember a bed under here some place ….

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Oct 26, 2008
5,021
Catalina 320 Barnegat, NJ
While you may have eliminated most of the smell, your cushions (fabric & foam) are probably permeated. You may not get complete riddance of the smell until you change those items out.
 
Oct 16, 2021
13
hunter 376 hamilton
While you may have eliminated most of the smell, your cushions (fabric & foam) are probably permeated. You may not get complete riddance of the smell until you change those items out.
Totally agreed there
I had the cushions professionally high power steamed which seems to have fixed them and I am lucky enough that there is a mattress factory right near here and they do latex foam custom bot mattresses
 
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Dec 2, 1997
8,132
- - LIttle Rock
While you may have eliminated most of the smell, your cushions (fabric & foam) are probably permeated. You may not get complete riddance of the smell until you change those items out.
It's actually not that difficult to eliminate residual odors in soft goods (rugs, carpet and cushions). There's product that'll do it : PureAyre PureAyre It's the only product I've ever found that'll eliminate ANY odor--even smoke or diesel-- when used as directed. Cushions: remove the covers and send 'em to the cleaners. Then spray enough of it to penetrate cushions to the middle from both sides..not enough to make 'em drippy, just enough to get into the cushion.... then let them dry. If the weather is good, put 'em out on deck in the sunshine all day. Rugs: spray enough PureAyre onto them to penetrate all the way to the backing...then just let them dry--also out in the sun if possible.

PureAyre will also eliminate residual odor left by stinky hoses in lockers and compartments. It's a bit more labor intensive job 'cuz first you need to CLEAN every surface, nook and cranny with detergent and water...mop up any excess water, then leave hatches a lockers open to allow plenty of fresh air to circulate. When everything is at least 90% dry, spray PureAyre onto every surface and into every nook and cranny...you only need a fine mist...and then let it dry with hatches open for at least 24 hours. If you still have any odor, you missed a spot.

Amazon carries PureAyre...the "household" version is the least expensive and will work just fine. I'd buy a gallon, maybe even two if you have a lot of cleaning/deodorizing to do. And I'd also get a pump garden sprayer, it's SO much easier to use than triggers sprayers. Buy a good one...the cheap ones work for all of 15 minutes if you're lucky. Walmart has the RoundUP brand gallon jugs...I've had mine for about 20 years. Key is to clean it after every use and NEVER put bleach in it (don't ask me how I learned that!).

Oh...btw...PureAyre is also rated safe to use around food, which means you can also use it to de-stinkify a fridge or ice box in which food has spoiled. Wipe down the walls with any cleaning product,then spray 'em with a fine mist.

All this is in my book, btw...along with a lot more useful info.

--Peggie
 

RoyS

.
Jun 3, 2012
1,218
Hunter 33 Steamboat Wharf, Hull, MA
Last year we removed all of our cushions from the boat at the end of the season. They had a mildewy "boat smell." Stacked them in our attic with tubular pipe insulation as spacers. The attic smelled like a boat for about a month. By Spring the cushions smelled fresh and we put them back on the boat. Now that the season has passed they are back in the attic. They were much fresher all season and we will do this every year. Another plus of this plan is that in Fall and Spring while I am working on the boat I am not having to shift cushions back and forth to get into the hatches underneath them. Just a suggestion.
 
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Dec 6, 2021
1
Carver 350 Aft Cabin Weehawken NJ
My '92 new-to-me boat was stinky, and I found that BOTH factory y-valves, fwd and aft heads, were cracked at the toilet discharge hose barb. I believe the PO left water in there sometime, and it froze during winter storage. Since I will be in the Hudson/canals most of the time (NDZ) I just removed the y-valves and spliced directly to the holding tank. Hoses were old (original?) but the sewage odor was GONE!! Still some mechanical/engine smells but once opened up, they quickly dissipate.

I think it is likely that the poster here could have the same thing, since it came on so quickly. Check all your hose connections for cracking and leakage. As JamesG161 wrote, inspect , inspect, inspect before replacing everything.

Also, FWIW, the Perko Zamac aft tank pumpout deck fitting corroded through just below the deck flange, and I could not pump out...drove me crazy looking for blockages, etc, essentially made the boat unusable, until I finally was able to reach the under-deck hose end, and...LOOSE!! Had the pleasure then of replacing both fwd and aft fittings. So inspect those G***dam Zamac fittings, they are not durable.