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Hunter 33 Bilge hose setup

Rabe

.
May 15, 2019
63
Hunter 33 - Cherubini Port Clinton, OH
Look at the plumbing diagram it's hard to make out what's what.

From the bilge to the stairs is a 3/4" hose. At the stairs it makes a sharp turn and I think it stays 3/4". How is it making the turn here? Is it an elbow or is it a bend in the hose which could kink?

There is the shower bilge hose too in the area under the stairs. It appears to be 3/4" as well. Is that the case?
 
May 27, 2004
1,696
Hunter 30_74-83 Ponce Inlet FL
Rabe, You're asking about the plumbing on a 40 +/- year old boat that has had
many (?) owners. There is little chance that the hoses you see are original in size or configuration. These kinds of issues are common to new owners of old (and some not so old)
used boats.
You should look at EVERY system on your boat, determine how you want them to function, then source the best material available and re-do them. You should develop a plan for each by asking specific questions here regarding your objectives and issues. Forums are a good resource for recommendations as to what works now in a given scenario. Not so much for divining what was the rational for a previous owner's decisions.

I look forward to your first project post.
 

Rabe

.
May 15, 2019
63
Hunter 33 - Cherubini Port Clinton, OH
Thanks Grizzard,

I'm the third owner on this boat. The plumbing in my boat is original.

The question is pretty specific. The original manual and the scans in the download section are a little fuzzy in this area.

Is it an elbow or is it a bend in the hose. Sure I can look at it and I guess with your response I'm better off doing that the next time I'm up there.

But I had hoped that while I was thinking about something that I noticed, that I might ask in the hopes that someone might have an idea. Since I'm 90 minutes away and not returning for a few day.

I wasn't asking why the previous owner did something.

I was asking what hunter did.
 

RoyS

.
Jun 3, 2012
1,167
Hunter 33 Steamboat Wharf, Hull, MA
Think it was that ultra cheap, but highly flexible, corrugated bilge hose without elbows in the bilge area. Never really looked closely at that. Hunter Owners Manual says 3/4" .
 
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Rabe

.
May 15, 2019
63
Hunter 33 - Cherubini Port Clinton, OH
Think it was that ultra cheap, but highly flexible, corrugated bilge hose without elbows in the bilge area. Never really looked closely at that. Hunter Owners Manual says 3/4" .
Thanks for the info :)

Yes, definitely 3/4"
 
Jul 7, 2004
7,924
Hunter 30T Cheney, KS
Think it was that ultra cheap, but highly flexible, corrugated bilge hose without elbows in the bilge area. Never really looked closely at that. Hunter Owners Manual says 3/4" .
That's what my Hunter had. I replaced it with smooth bore hose for better flow, but mostly because that cheap crap had a tear behind the seat and would leak back into the bilge.
 
Jan 2, 2008
544
Hunter 33 (Cherubini design Forked River, Barnegat Bay, NJ
The original prints, pictures, whatever you call them were no more than a basic idea. No relation to reality. Each and every boat was different . You naad, as others suggest, to follow out all of your systems and replace junk. Sorry, but 1980s Hunter was not known for wasting money on great materials.
 
Jun 5, 2010
1,060
Hunter 25 Burlington NJ
In general, at this stage there is no point in wondering what Hunter did from the start. What Grizz says is absolutely valid. The boat is 40 yrs old. If it hasn’t been altered by now it should be changed anyway. Rip it all out and redo it ASAP.

There are generally-accepted principles and standards for marine plumbing. Research them, if only by asking here, and do it right.

My professional policy for installing bilge pumps includes the following:
  • On any boat the size of yours, the minimum pump should be 1000gph and minimum hose size 1” or 1-1/8”.
  • Use ONLY series-148 sanitation or series-149 PVC livewell hose, and lead it in wide, fair curves. In the event of unavoidable bends (like less than 8” radius), use hose with wire rated for engine heat or sanitation; but know this will not last as long as the PVC stuff will. DO NOT use that horrid flexible plastic junk. It does not last long, is vulnerable to rips, slows down the flow and is hard to clamp.
  • The fewer the connections, the fewer the failures.
  • Use ONLY all-SS hose clamps. I prefer the US-made Ideal ones which are 5/16” whilst the Euro-spec Awap ones are metric. You don’t need to double-clamp, especially when using the PVC hose, since no connexions are in seawater.
  • When routing the hose, go UP from the pump or pickup first, then carry on at more or less at level (very slight decline) till dropping directly to the exit through-hull. I did this for Diana (after learning the hard way on C44s) but installed Forespar sanitation-line vacuum breakers in the lines to prevent back-siphoning anyway.
  • There should always be a manual pump of similar capacity.
  • NEVER EVER EVER EVER EVER combine any other plumbing line with a bilge pump’s intake or exit line. NEVER NEVER NEVER. This includes the other bilge pump.
  • Locate the bilge pump’s exit through-hull as far ABOVE the heeled waterline as possible. Provide a drip lip if dribbling down the topsides is likely (avoid stains).
  • DO NOT install any seacock on a bilge-pump exit, EVER.
  • Install the bilge-pump exit so that it drains DIRECTLY INTO THE SEA - not into a well, not into the cockpit, not onto the deck (all of which I have seen).
  • Provide excellent access to all components and connections to an enable an aging, out-of-shape guy to get to them (something few makers of cheap motorboats ever think of. We’re not like them).
Start there. You’ve got all winter. I’ll answer anything more that comes up. That’s why I’m here.
 
Jan 2, 2008
544
Hunter 33 (Cherubini design Forked River, Barnegat Bay, NJ
RE: Post # 8, Diana of Burlington. Yeah,... What he said! THAT is how you do a bilge pump.