We are going to purchase a new 380. I am considering the furling main option. Does the boat perform as well with it as with a conventional rig? Also, how is it reefed? Does it just go into the mast or what?
- Status
Furling Main: Think Carefully
This topic has come up before. Check the archives for all of the "lively" exchange of opinions. But consider this. Sailmakers, who are compeletely unbiased in this area (they haven't bought boats with either type of main) consistently report that a furling main, on average, has 30% less power than a traditional, battened main. On the 380, the main is the MAJOR driver of the boat, with its large size and big roach. So a furling main with lack of equivalent battens and lack of roach, will probably have an even greater decrease in power. So you're robbing the boat of its major source of performance. Aside from performance, consider safety. A traditional main can simply be dropped in an emergency situation, spilling all wind and allowing the crew to do whatever the situation requires. A furling main has to be furled. To see the potential problems with this, just check the archives here or at Cruising World's bulletin board, or ask fellow sailors about the problems that DO occur furling a headsail. And the mainsail on the 380 is a lot larger than most headsails. I will admit. I'm biased on this topic. I sailed extensively on one boat that had a furling main. Caught in a sudden squall, the main furler jammed with all the pressure on it and could not be cleared. In the mayhem, one crew member went overboard. Fortunately, he was recovered after about 30 minutes treading water. The boat had to be towed back to dock. I sailed another boat with a roller furling main on a two week charter in the Caribbean. Sailing along in moderate conditions, another same model boat by the same charter company but with a traditional mainsail just blew right by us. Later, and again, when the conditions were the strongest, extreme problems occurred furling the main. And this was with four guys aboard, three of whom were over 200 pounds and in good shape. So, I'd say to you, if you're sure that you'll always sail in fair and mild conditions, and if you don't care about getting good performance out of your boat, go for the furling main for convenience. But if you hold open the possibility that Mother Nature can be unpredictable, go traditional. Hardware dealers will tell you that all problems have been ironed out of the equipment. But this is sailing and no hardware is 100% reliable. And out on the water, merde happens.
This topic has come up before. Check the archives for all of the "lively" exchange of opinions. But consider this. Sailmakers, who are compeletely unbiased in this area (they haven't bought boats with either type of main) consistently report that a furling main, on average, has 30% less power than a traditional, battened main. On the 380, the main is the MAJOR driver of the boat, with its large size and big roach. So a furling main with lack of equivalent battens and lack of roach, will probably have an even greater decrease in power. So you're robbing the boat of its major source of performance. Aside from performance, consider safety. A traditional main can simply be dropped in an emergency situation, spilling all wind and allowing the crew to do whatever the situation requires. A furling main has to be furled. To see the potential problems with this, just check the archives here or at Cruising World's bulletin board, or ask fellow sailors about the problems that DO occur furling a headsail. And the mainsail on the 380 is a lot larger than most headsails. I will admit. I'm biased on this topic. I sailed extensively on one boat that had a furling main. Caught in a sudden squall, the main furler jammed with all the pressure on it and could not be cleared. In the mayhem, one crew member went overboard. Fortunately, he was recovered after about 30 minutes treading water. The boat had to be towed back to dock. I sailed another boat with a roller furling main on a two week charter in the Caribbean. Sailing along in moderate conditions, another same model boat by the same charter company but with a traditional mainsail just blew right by us. Later, and again, when the conditions were the strongest, extreme problems occurred furling the main. And this was with four guys aboard, three of whom were over 200 pounds and in good shape. So, I'd say to you, if you're sure that you'll always sail in fair and mild conditions, and if you don't care about getting good performance out of your boat, go for the furling main for convenience. But if you hold open the possibility that Mother Nature can be unpredictable, go traditional. Hardware dealers will tell you that all problems have been ironed out of the equipment. But this is sailing and no hardware is 100% reliable. And out on the water, merde happens.
Furling main
John, Ricky's comments apply only to a furling main using the mast for the furling. I have a furling boom(Furlboom), and this has none of the disadvantages he mentions: I have a full-battened main, the same large roach I had before I installed the new boom, and in an emergency, I can still drop the main just like I did with my old non-furling setup. In fact it was for just the problems that Ricky mentioned that I went with the boom furling - of course cost had nothing to do with it
John, Ricky's comments apply only to a furling main using the mast for the furling. I have a furling boom(Furlboom), and this has none of the disadvantages he mentions: I have a full-battened main, the same large roach I had before I installed the new boom, and in an emergency, I can still drop the main just like I did with my old non-furling setup. In fact it was for just the problems that Ricky mentioned that I went with the boom furling - of course cost had nothing to do with it
In mast furling - Yes!
Perhaps I'm not sailing properly, but I have not experienced any of the problems discussed. The in- mast system on my 380 has worked flawlessly. I'm sure conventional main sail systems are far from perfect. One thing I do know is that my wife can easily set and reef the main by herself. From what I hear from others and what I have read on this site, unless you have pumped at lot of iron in your day, you'd better make sure you have an electric winch to haul up that large main. We can reef our main in about 30 seconds. I'm sure there is some compromise in performance, not the 30% quoted, but weigh that against convenience. Our boat will easily do 6-7 kts in 12-15kts of wind. To me thats fast enough - especially since I'm not into racing. I get a laugh when I bring the boat into the slip and can enjoy a cool Margarita while I watch the 'conventional' guys packing and covering their sails in the 90 deg. heat and humidity. There is a long list or pros and cons no matter which way you go-so just do what feels right. By the way, if your looking for well equipped, nearly new 1999 380, go to the owner's site and email me. Good luck.
Perhaps I'm not sailing properly, but I have not experienced any of the problems discussed. The in- mast system on my 380 has worked flawlessly. I'm sure conventional main sail systems are far from perfect. One thing I do know is that my wife can easily set and reef the main by herself. From what I hear from others and what I have read on this site, unless you have pumped at lot of iron in your day, you'd better make sure you have an electric winch to haul up that large main. We can reef our main in about 30 seconds. I'm sure there is some compromise in performance, not the 30% quoted, but weigh that against convenience. Our boat will easily do 6-7 kts in 12-15kts of wind. To me thats fast enough - especially since I'm not into racing. I get a laugh when I bring the boat into the slip and can enjoy a cool Margarita while I watch the 'conventional' guys packing and covering their sails in the 90 deg. heat and humidity. There is a long list or pros and cons no matter which way you go-so just do what feels right. By the way, if your looking for well equipped, nearly new 1999 380, go to the owner's site and email me. Good luck.
Another view
I bought a P42 with an "after market" in mast roller furling. The number given by both my surveyor and sail-maker was a 10% reduction in power over a conventional main. My original plan was to sell the in mast roller furling and buy a conventional main, but after using the roller for a month in the Bahamas and the last six months sailing locally, there is no way that I would part with this thing. It has infinite reefing positions. It has never failed or jammed in even the strongest winds (45K is my highest guess). You do not have to leave the cockpit to deploy or roll it. It makes the boat easy to sail by yourself. There is no fooling around with sail covers. In an emergency, it can be deployed by one person quickly. It can also be lowered, if you wish, like a conventional main. I believe the 10% reduction in boat speed for a given wind velocity ( if in fact that's what happens) is well worth all the previously mentioned advantages. It is true that if it became jammed in an intermediate position, you would have a problem and this, most certainly, should be a consideration. Perhaps someone, more knowledgeable than I, can address that. After seven months of owning a furling main sail, there is no question that I will never own another sail boat without eaither "mast" or "boom" furling.
I bought a P42 with an "after market" in mast roller furling. The number given by both my surveyor and sail-maker was a 10% reduction in power over a conventional main. My original plan was to sell the in mast roller furling and buy a conventional main, but after using the roller for a month in the Bahamas and the last six months sailing locally, there is no way that I would part with this thing. It has infinite reefing positions. It has never failed or jammed in even the strongest winds (45K is my highest guess). You do not have to leave the cockpit to deploy or roll it. It makes the boat easy to sail by yourself. There is no fooling around with sail covers. In an emergency, it can be deployed by one person quickly. It can also be lowered, if you wish, like a conventional main. I believe the 10% reduction in boat speed for a given wind velocity ( if in fact that's what happens) is well worth all the previously mentioned advantages. It is true that if it became jammed in an intermediate position, you would have a problem and this, most certainly, should be a consideration. Perhaps someone, more knowledgeable than I, can address that. After seven months of owning a furling main sail, there is no question that I will never own another sail boat without eaither "mast" or "boom" furling.
Not on a B&R rig
The B&R rig pays several penalties in order to gain one big benefit: the ability to carry a large roached main. If you put a hollow leech sail on a B&R rig, as required for in-mast furling, you have now thrown out its one advantage, and are left with all the downside. If Hunter wants to offer the option of in-mast furling, they should match it to a standard marconi rig with spreaders that aren't swept back. Putting in-mast furling on a B&R rig is like buying a Macintosh and they running nothing but Windows apps using an emulator.
The B&R rig pays several penalties in order to gain one big benefit: the ability to carry a large roached main. If you put a hollow leech sail on a B&R rig, as required for in-mast furling, you have now thrown out its one advantage, and are left with all the downside. If Hunter wants to offer the option of in-mast furling, they should match it to a standard marconi rig with spreaders that aren't swept back. Putting in-mast furling on a B&R rig is like buying a Macintosh and they running nothing but Windows apps using an emulator.
YES to furling
I have a furling main on my 460 and love it. Absolutely no regrets. Its operation is far smoother than my furling jib. If the furling main cannot be lowered in its track due to some risk, then I assume that the same risk applies to the traditional main. My only negative comment is that it is a little weird to sale with and takes some getting use to it. Once your are, you should love it. Another hunter owner I spoke to last night said he would never go back to a traditional main. If I loose a little power too bad. BTW, I have furled in 30 knots wind with no difficulty. For real downwind sailing, consider a down wind sail. Good luck
I have a furling main on my 460 and love it. Absolutely no regrets. Its operation is far smoother than my furling jib. If the furling main cannot be lowered in its track due to some risk, then I assume that the same risk applies to the traditional main. My only negative comment is that it is a little weird to sale with and takes some getting use to it. Once your are, you should love it. Another hunter owner I spoke to last night said he would never go back to a traditional main. If I loose a little power too bad. BTW, I have furled in 30 knots wind with no difficulty. For real downwind sailing, consider a down wind sail. Good luck
good grief!
1. the ability to carry a large roach is NOT the only advantage of a B&R rig. for example, the ability to carry a big stick and not have to rely on running backstays is another advantage. 2. there are options to allow larger roaches in mast-furling mains. Hood sails has pioneered vertical battens which are now very popular in Europe. Doyle has just come out with a lever-type batten. 3. batten-less mains, such as found on most boats with in-mast furling, sacrifice no more than 10% of total power. 4. a novice sailor can jam ANY main, furling or not. battens hanging up on lazyjacks are responsible for more "jammed" mains than even the early in-mast furling systems. batten cars jam in sail tracks all the time. on the other hand, if a person will take the time to learn how to sail a furling main PROPERLY, the chances of jamming one of the new furling main systems are negligable. 5. the safety ADVANTAGE of in-mast furling is the advantage to set, reef and douse without ever having to leave the safety of the cockpit. additionally, the main is not restricted to one or two reef points. a mast-furled main can be as small or smaller than a storm sail. with a conventional main, to go from a double-reefed set to a stormsail set in high winds and seas is going to take an expert sailer at least twenty minutes of time standing at the mast while strapped to the mast pulpit. On a furling main in the same conditions, all that has to be done is to luff the main via the mainsheet, ease the outhaul, take in the inhaul, tension the outhaul again and then tighten the mainsheet. This can all be done without ever poking one's head out from behind the dodger.
1. the ability to carry a large roach is NOT the only advantage of a B&R rig. for example, the ability to carry a big stick and not have to rely on running backstays is another advantage. 2. there are options to allow larger roaches in mast-furling mains. Hood sails has pioneered vertical battens which are now very popular in Europe. Doyle has just come out with a lever-type batten. 3. batten-less mains, such as found on most boats with in-mast furling, sacrifice no more than 10% of total power. 4. a novice sailor can jam ANY main, furling or not. battens hanging up on lazyjacks are responsible for more "jammed" mains than even the early in-mast furling systems. batten cars jam in sail tracks all the time. on the other hand, if a person will take the time to learn how to sail a furling main PROPERLY, the chances of jamming one of the new furling main systems are negligable. 5. the safety ADVANTAGE of in-mast furling is the advantage to set, reef and douse without ever having to leave the safety of the cockpit. additionally, the main is not restricted to one or two reef points. a mast-furled main can be as small or smaller than a storm sail. with a conventional main, to go from a double-reefed set to a stormsail set in high winds and seas is going to take an expert sailer at least twenty minutes of time standing at the mast while strapped to the mast pulpit. On a furling main in the same conditions, all that has to be done is to luff the main via the mainsheet, ease the outhaul, take in the inhaul, tension the outhaul again and then tighten the mainsheet. This can all be done without ever poking one's head out from behind the dodger.
A reefed main does not a trisail make
"the ability to carry a big stick and not have to rely on running backstays is another advantage." That's wrong. You'll find the traditional marconi rig on many sloops with spars as tall as the 380, and nary a running backstay. Most cruising rigs use running backstays only when flying a sail on an inner stay that terminates below the headstay. I'll grant the small advantage you describe, IF your boat is rigged with an inner forestay. Most Hunters aren't. You're working really, really hard to find another benefit to the B&R rig. Let me help: The diagonal stays look nice in photos. "batten-less mains, such as found on most boats with in-mast furling, sacrifice no more than 10% of total power." If that were true, there would be little sense to the B&R rig. Nor to the various complexities you mention to add roach to a mast-furled main. "the safety ADVANTAGE of in-mast furling is the advantage to set, reef and douse without ever having to leave the safety of the cockpit." Whether you reef from the cockpit or at the mast depends entirely on how the running rigging is set up. I have sailed on boats with slab reefing done entirely from the cockpit. "additionally, the main is not restricted to one or two reef points. a mast-furled main can be as small or smaller than a storm sail." Have you ever seen a trisail, John? Notice anything about the weight and strength of the cloth used? Think there is a reason for that? Mechanically, you can have reef points as high up a sail as you want There is a reason that mainsails aren't reefed to trisail size. There is also a reason that the heavy cloth needed by trisails is not used for the working main. If you don't believe me, ask any loft. The B&R rig is a neat innovation. In-mast furling is convenient. Combining the two -- given today's technology -- is somewhat akin to putting expensive but fragile performance sails on a Westsail 32. You can argue for all of the parts, but the whole doesn't make much sense.
"the ability to carry a big stick and not have to rely on running backstays is another advantage." That's wrong. You'll find the traditional marconi rig on many sloops with spars as tall as the 380, and nary a running backstay. Most cruising rigs use running backstays only when flying a sail on an inner stay that terminates below the headstay. I'll grant the small advantage you describe, IF your boat is rigged with an inner forestay. Most Hunters aren't. You're working really, really hard to find another benefit to the B&R rig. Let me help: The diagonal stays look nice in photos. "batten-less mains, such as found on most boats with in-mast furling, sacrifice no more than 10% of total power." If that were true, there would be little sense to the B&R rig. Nor to the various complexities you mention to add roach to a mast-furled main. "the safety ADVANTAGE of in-mast furling is the advantage to set, reef and douse without ever having to leave the safety of the cockpit." Whether you reef from the cockpit or at the mast depends entirely on how the running rigging is set up. I have sailed on boats with slab reefing done entirely from the cockpit. "additionally, the main is not restricted to one or two reef points. a mast-furled main can be as small or smaller than a storm sail." Have you ever seen a trisail, John? Notice anything about the weight and strength of the cloth used? Think there is a reason for that? Mechanically, you can have reef points as high up a sail as you want There is a reason that mainsails aren't reefed to trisail size. There is also a reason that the heavy cloth needed by trisails is not used for the working main. If you don't believe me, ask any loft. The B&R rig is a neat innovation. In-mast furling is convenient. Combining the two -- given today's technology -- is somewhat akin to putting expensive but fragile performance sails on a Westsail 32. You can argue for all of the parts, but the whole doesn't make much sense.
!0% or 30% Power Loss?
The decision to select a furling main or a standard main with full battens, at least in the upper portion of the sail, will have to be based on the choice of convenience vs. performance (as measured by speed). If it's convenience one wants then the furling main or boom is probably a good option on a boat with a large main and a 38-footer is getting up there. The choice is a personal one. Our old '88 H-35 will beat every boat in our area, boat for boat, that has a furling main. The list includes a fairly new Hinkley 69, Beneteau 44's,and a couple fairly new Catalina 42's. Good skipper you say? No, they are all good skippers, it's the sail that's the main difference. The Hinkley owner likes sailing and comfort, and he likes to take it easy. He even has a piano on board. Cost is not a factor. All the other skippers have late model boats and can afford whatever they want and they made their choice. The standard rig with full batten main (gradually becomming outnumbered with the biger boats - wait for the recount!) is definitely faster. The main on a 38 is larger than on the 35 and is more work to flake. 10 or 30 percent more power, I don't know, but the roach definitely makes a big difference with speed. And for me, slab reefing with the Dutchman is not that difficult but then our boom is not that high up either. When putting the sail away I let my wife steer (or use the Autohelm) while I lower the sail and flake it and put the sail cover on. Also, I don't mind the exercise. What it comes down to is different strokes for different folks.
The decision to select a furling main or a standard main with full battens, at least in the upper portion of the sail, will have to be based on the choice of convenience vs. performance (as measured by speed). If it's convenience one wants then the furling main or boom is probably a good option on a boat with a large main and a 38-footer is getting up there. The choice is a personal one. Our old '88 H-35 will beat every boat in our area, boat for boat, that has a furling main. The list includes a fairly new Hinkley 69, Beneteau 44's,and a couple fairly new Catalina 42's. Good skipper you say? No, they are all good skippers, it's the sail that's the main difference. The Hinkley owner likes sailing and comfort, and he likes to take it easy. He even has a piano on board. Cost is not a factor. All the other skippers have late model boats and can afford whatever they want and they made their choice. The standard rig with full batten main (gradually becomming outnumbered with the biger boats - wait for the recount!) is definitely faster. The main on a 38 is larger than on the 35 and is more work to flake. 10 or 30 percent more power, I don't know, but the roach definitely makes a big difference with speed. And for me, slab reefing with the Dutchman is not that difficult but then our boom is not that high up either. When putting the sail away I let my wife steer (or use the Autohelm) while I lower the sail and flake it and put the sail cover on. Also, I don't mind the exercise. What it comes down to is different strokes for different folks.
Boom Furler Questions
I have a 376 with the full roach main and use the Dutchman so dropping and flaking the main is a breeze. My question is relative to the in-boom furler which is the only type of furling main I would consider (see below). Can this be used with a full roach/battened main? Also, would I be gaining anything besides not having to put on my sail ties and cover? As for an in-mast furler...no way. My experience with one was on a charter. Granted it was my first(and only time) using one. Wouldn't you know we got caught in a squall and the thing jammed while trying to get a reef into it. Never had to leave the cockpit though since no one was going up the mast in that weather. Ended up spending 20-30 minutes head to wind in the waves getting it loose. By that time I had four very sick passengers. On the other hand my boat has a jiffy reef with all lines running aft so I also never have to leave the cockpit and it only takes a few minutes to drop the sail and winch everything tight. Finally, I don't know what the drop in power is but I routinely sail with a Benateau 46 that has an in-mast furler. Generally on a full day of sailing I like to circle around and practice my single handed tacks and Jibs while I'm waiting for them to catch up... As with everything there's always a trade off. I guess it depends upon what you're willing to trade. As it is now I can easily single hand my boat and do everything from the cockpit without the trade off of a furling main. Just throwing in my two cents...
I have a 376 with the full roach main and use the Dutchman so dropping and flaking the main is a breeze. My question is relative to the in-boom furler which is the only type of furling main I would consider (see below). Can this be used with a full roach/battened main? Also, would I be gaining anything besides not having to put on my sail ties and cover? As for an in-mast furler...no way. My experience with one was on a charter. Granted it was my first(and only time) using one. Wouldn't you know we got caught in a squall and the thing jammed while trying to get a reef into it. Never had to leave the cockpit though since no one was going up the mast in that weather. Ended up spending 20-30 minutes head to wind in the waves getting it loose. By that time I had four very sick passengers. On the other hand my boat has a jiffy reef with all lines running aft so I also never have to leave the cockpit and it only takes a few minutes to drop the sail and winch everything tight. Finally, I don't know what the drop in power is but I routinely sail with a Benateau 46 that has an in-mast furler. Generally on a full day of sailing I like to circle around and practice my single handed tacks and Jibs while I'm waiting for them to catch up... As with everything there's always a trade off. I guess it depends upon what you're willing to trade. As it is now I can easily single hand my boat and do everything from the cockpit without the trade off of a furling main. Just throwing in my two cents...
Yes , in-boom furling..
..it is suited better for B&R rig , since one can keep the roachy/fully battened main neccesarry for adequent performance; It is also better on safety , and boat stability ( both weight up , and center of effort of mainsail, fare better on regular or in-boom compared to in-mast furling). On not so bent+raked mast , I would be content with a single-or two- line reefing ; on newer B&R rigged Hunters , the prebend makes for not so smooth slider operation. For sure in-mast reefing and B&R rig , is a weired combination , loosing the pros of both..
..it is suited better for B&R rig , since one can keep the roachy/fully battened main neccesarry for adequent performance; It is also better on safety , and boat stability ( both weight up , and center of effort of mainsail, fare better on regular or in-boom compared to in-mast furling). On not so bent+raked mast , I would be content with a single-or two- line reefing ; on newer B&R rigged Hunters , the prebend makes for not so smooth slider operation. For sure in-mast reefing and B&R rig , is a weired combination , loosing the pros of both..
storm tri-sail
Yes, the old canvas tri-sails, the ones with the sewn-in bolt ropes, were very heavy. Modern ones are not. The standard North storm tri-sail is made with 8oz dacron, triple-stitched with #8 tape. This is actually lighter fabric than my "Charter Grade" UK main, which is made of 9.5oz dacron.......... As for the question posed by "Been There:" yes, I have had occasion to use a tri-sail, although not on my h410. On the 410, conversely, I have had occasion to use my furling main in sustained winds exceeding 40 knots. Was about 30 miles offshore at the time, in 14-foot seas, and the gale blew all night. Was very glad not to have to go forward and wrestle a storm sail into the mast slot in the middle of the night. .......... There are, indeed, two ways to circumvent the need for running backstays on large masts. One is to build an exceptionally heavy mast, the other is to sweep the stays. The advantage of swept stays is that they eliminate considerable weight aloft while still preventing mast pumping.
Yes, the old canvas tri-sails, the ones with the sewn-in bolt ropes, were very heavy. Modern ones are not. The standard North storm tri-sail is made with 8oz dacron, triple-stitched with #8 tape. This is actually lighter fabric than my "Charter Grade" UK main, which is made of 9.5oz dacron.......... As for the question posed by "Been There:" yes, I have had occasion to use a tri-sail, although not on my h410. On the 410, conversely, I have had occasion to use my furling main in sustained winds exceeding 40 knots. Was about 30 miles offshore at the time, in 14-foot seas, and the gale blew all night. Was very glad not to have to go forward and wrestle a storm sail into the mast slot in the middle of the night. .......... There are, indeed, two ways to circumvent the need for running backstays on large masts. One is to build an exceptionally heavy mast, the other is to sweep the stays. The advantage of swept stays is that they eliminate considerable weight aloft while still preventing mast pumping.
oops
Just remembered, there's one additional way to eliminate runners, by building a completely unstayed mast. (I mention this because I will be racing the next Pacific Cup, California to Hawaii, as a member of team Wylie. We'll be double-handing a WylieCat 30, which has a carbon fiber mast and no stays. No storm tri-sails either.)
Just remembered, there's one additional way to eliminate runners, by building a completely unstayed mast. (I mention this because I will be racing the next Pacific Cup, California to Hawaii, as a member of team Wylie. We'll be double-handing a WylieCat 30, which has a carbon fiber mast and no stays. No storm tri-sails either.)
Furling main
Rich, I've just added a Furlboom furling boom on my 430, and had to give up nothing in the process. I still have a fully-battened sail, with the same full roach I had prior to the addition. I can still do everything from the cockpit, and I now find myself reefing much much more often, and in more necessary conditions. The jiffy reefing that came with the boat was anything but- there was so much friction in all of the grommets, that trying to get the leach down tight was almost impossible. With my new boom, it is now a snap. And when I get back to the slip, my sail is ship-shape immediately, rather than the struggle with sail ties and the huge cover - and on the 430, I had to actually climb partway up the mast to fasten the front end of the sail
Rich, I've just added a Furlboom furling boom on my 430, and had to give up nothing in the process. I still have a fully-battened sail, with the same full roach I had prior to the addition. I can still do everything from the cockpit, and I now find myself reefing much much more often, and in more necessary conditions. The jiffy reefing that came with the boat was anything but- there was so much friction in all of the grommets, that trying to get the leach down tight was almost impossible. With my new boom, it is now a snap. And when I get back to the slip, my sail is ship-shape immediately, rather than the struggle with sail ties and the huge cover - and on the 430, I had to actually climb partway up the mast to fasten the front end of the sail
SELF FURLING MAIN&POWER WINCH
I AM 70 AND LIVE ABOARD AND BEEN A POWER BOATER[TRAWLER FOR 30 YEARS. I ALWAYS RESPECTED AND ADMIRED PEOPLE WHO COULD SAIL,SO WE BOUGHT A NEW 45FT HUNTER AND THEN TOOKSAILING LESSONS [1999]. I STILL DONT KNOW THE PROPER TERMANOLIGY FOR THINGS AND WHEN I KNOW MORE AM HEADING SOUTH.BETWEEN THE FURLING MAST,POWER WINCH,AUTO PILOT,THE CAPN,A COMPUTER,SATTALITE DISH,AND ALL THE OTHER GOODIES, YOU CANT BEAT IT. I WILL PROBABLY NEVER CONSIDER MYSELF A SAILOR BUT I WAS A MARINE SGT.
I AM 70 AND LIVE ABOARD AND BEEN A POWER BOATER[TRAWLER FOR 30 YEARS. I ALWAYS RESPECTED AND ADMIRED PEOPLE WHO COULD SAIL,SO WE BOUGHT A NEW 45FT HUNTER AND THEN TOOKSAILING LESSONS [1999]. I STILL DONT KNOW THE PROPER TERMANOLIGY FOR THINGS AND WHEN I KNOW MORE AM HEADING SOUTH.BETWEEN THE FURLING MAST,POWER WINCH,AUTO PILOT,THE CAPN,A COMPUTER,SATTALITE DISH,AND ALL THE OTHER GOODIES, YOU CANT BEAT IT. I WILL PROBABLY NEVER CONSIDER MYSELF A SAILOR BUT I WAS A MARINE SGT.
Pete/Furling Main
I may just have to consider a boom furler. How did you decide which make to go with? I will have to say my Jiffy reefing sounds easier to work with than your was but I have a smaller boat. Thanks
I may just have to consider a boom furler. How did you decide which make to go with? I will have to say my Jiffy reefing sounds easier to work with than your was but I have a smaller boat. Thanks
Furling main
Rich, there are three main manufacturers of furling booms: Profurl, Leisure Furl, and Furlboom. I had initially leaned to Leisure Furl. High quality, but also high price. But their boom would not work on my 430's curved mast. Same was true with Profurl. However Furlboom claimed that their's would work on my curved mast, albeit they had relatively few installations on Hunter boats. And even JSI felt that it wouldn't work, although JSI has now mounted a Furlboom on a Manta Cat, and it seems to work well on that boat. I went ahead anyway, and although I've only used it half a dozen times, it so far works like a charm. Intial adjustments are critical - mainly the angle between the boom and the mast, to ensure that the sail rolls up nicely. Love it so far.
Rich, there are three main manufacturers of furling booms: Profurl, Leisure Furl, and Furlboom. I had initially leaned to Leisure Furl. High quality, but also high price. But their boom would not work on my 430's curved mast. Same was true with Profurl. However Furlboom claimed that their's would work on my curved mast, albeit they had relatively few installations on Hunter boats. And even JSI felt that it wouldn't work, although JSI has now mounted a Furlboom on a Manta Cat, and it seems to work well on that boat. I went ahead anyway, and although I've only used it half a dozen times, it so far works like a charm. Intial adjustments are critical - mainly the angle between the boom and the mast, to ensure that the sail rolls up nicely. Love it so far.
roller reefing main
I have a 380 with the roler main option. I wouldn't have choosen this but it is what the boat I bought had. I have had it jam twice now. To me there is nothing scarier than having the wind get to strong to be safe and needing to reef and having the sail jam in a mostly open position. There isn't anything you can do. You can't drop it. I will note however than when it works correctly reefing is very easy. Just loosen the main and vang and roll in as much as you want.
I have a 380 with the roler main option. I wouldn't have choosen this but it is what the boat I bought had. I have had it jam twice now. To me there is nothing scarier than having the wind get to strong to be safe and needing to reef and having the sail jam in a mostly open position. There isn't anything you can do. You can't drop it. I will note however than when it works correctly reefing is very easy. Just loosen the main and vang and roll in as much as you want.
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