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How do I remove the cockpit deck between pedestal and transom?

Aug 20, 2013
38
Hunter 306 Deale, MD
Good morning!
I was wondering whether anyone happened to have any photos/instructions on how to remove the portion of the cockpit floor of a Hunter 306 that goes from half-way under the pedestal to the transom. I believe the steering linkage is under there, but I'd also like to give it a thorough cleaning of cobwebs, debris, small Volkswagens, and any possible racoon families that may be living there.

Thanks in advance!
 
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Jun 3, 2010
177
Hunter 27-3 Erie
I'm hoping you just need to remove the Philips head screws holding that portion of the cockpit sole in place? I was installing a new instrument pod for the chartplotter this past weekend and dropped one of the special mounting screws, it was just the right size to slither down the slot in between the pieces of the sole (of course). I can tell you for sure that is also a favorite place for the dock spiders to build condos in the summer time. If the weather holds I was heading down to pull up that piece, I'' let you know.

Craig
 
Aug 20, 2013
38
Hunter 306 Deale, MD
Excellent. Thanks, Craig - I look forward to hearing your results. And good luck with the weather!
 
Dec 19, 2006
5,727
Hunter 36 Punta Gorda
I am pretty sure after removing the 4 top screws and 2 screws on back part
where the seat swings down but the seat needs to be up and the floor will silde out the back.
That is how my 2007 H-36 is done and pretty sure yours is same.
Nick
 
Jan 1, 2006
5,999
Slickcraft 26 Greenport, NY
That's pretty much how I remember my H356. I had the shower installation blocking the removal path of the floor section. Thar be no monsters there in there but it got a good cleaning. And make no mistake - I hate spiders. This sign is/was a problem for me.
 

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Jun 3, 2010
177
Hunter 27-3 Erie
BTW, on our boat the outflow hoses from both the manual bilge pump and the optional high water electric pump in the bilge empty out under this section. During fall testing I found that both worked and both pump some seriously nasty water out under this section and across my swim platform. You have that to look forward to.
 
Aug 20, 2013
38
Hunter 306 Deale, MD
Good grief, I think you're right. Our manual pump does the same thing. And after the boat was put on the hard and I had removed the batteries I realized I needed to pump out the bilge manually. That could certainly account for this mess. Joy...
Still, if that's what it is, the small comfort would be that it's fixable. Not knowing where it's all coming from is the hardest part.
 
Jun 4, 2004
811
Hunter 340 Forked River, NJ
When you replace the floor panel make certain that you use plenty of caulk on the screw holes and around the screws as these will cause many water leaks in the aft cabin ceiling.
 
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Jun 3, 2010
177
Hunter 27-3 Erie
No dice on the floor panel. When I got down to the boat I realized that the aft-most upright on the winter cover frame is resting right smack in the middle of that panel. I was by myself and didn't feel lucky enough to try and lift the frame/cover and slide out the panel. Looks like it will be about 4 weeks, weather permitting.

Craig
 
Aug 20, 2013
38
Hunter 306 Deale, MD
Sorry to hear, Craig! And definitely duly noted, John. I went out to the boat yesterday and successfully removed the cockpit floor (what a pain in the rear that was, though). I am now confident that that was the source of the leak. Out of the four bolts securing the floor, one hole was empty! So after removing the cockpit floor I found the missing screw hanging on by a thread (pun intended) in the hole underneath (the one in the hull itself). Unlike the three surviving ones, this one had no washer and was a pretty corroded Robertson screw (the ones with the square indentation rather than phillips). I couldn't even pull it free, and the nut under the hull was so corroded I wouldn't have been able to get it off anyway. So I just pushed it all the way through.

Once I realized that replacing the bolts is a two-man job (one in the aft berth snaking an arm in to hold the bolts in place, and one topside to screw in the bolt) I temporarily sealed the hull holes with silicone, placed the cockpit floor back, and sealed those holes with silicone also. Hopefully that'll keep water out until this coming weekend when I take my Admiral with me to put all four bolts (including a new one to replace the corroded one) back in with proper sealant.

What would you all recommend to seal/caulk the screws? I'm thinking either silicone or some of 3M 4000UV (which I bought for installing a solar vent on my v-berth hatch).

Cheers!
 
Jun 3, 2010
177
Hunter 27-3 Erie
I'm a big fan Of LifeCaulk and LifeSeal, the caulk being a polysulfide and seal being a silicone. In this situation I would use the LifeSeal or some other good quality silicone. It stays flexible, seals the surfaces and is also removable (just in case). You really have me curious now, I can't wait to get my deck off. There is also a very compelling reason to be able to get mine on and off, I need to service/maintain the steering which involves inspection and lubing the cable and connectors. They live under that piece of decking.
 
Jun 14, 2020
12
Hunter 310 Nepean Sailing Club, Ottawa
Very instructional to read! Thanks all for posting.
I tried to remove the cockpit floor board earlier on by removing all for screws but it only slid aft about 3-4 inches then it stuck. I don't think it would let me lift it either. Has anyone else experienced this? (H310)
 
Feb 25, 2014
40
Hunter Hunter 30 Lake Lanier
I had to remove the cockpit floor behind the wheel on my 92 Hunter 30. Removing the screws did the trick. In my case the floor was soft, so had to scrape out the wood under the fiberglass and replace with wood and epoxy it in. As a side note, I was able to clean the slime that had built up under the floor.