I have a two year old Hunter 410 and have had it with the two Jabsco heads. I'm getting ready to replace both and am looking for advice about which replacement to install. I'm not looking for anything special or unusual, just one (two) that will work rather dependably. Ease of installation is obviously a big plus. I'd rather not spend an arm and a leg but certainly understand that you get exactly that for which you pay. Thoughts?
- Status
- Not open for further replies.
I feel your pain.
Dave: I feel your pain (pain in the ass, that is). We got one about 2-3 years ago. I tried to take it apart to lube the pump and the damn screws strip out of their plastic housing. Out head in the H'31 is small so we must have a compact type head. I decided to go with the PHII. I have been on several commercial type tour and fishing boats and they all seem to have these. They usually look like they are about 30 years old but seem to work well. This is what really made up my mind on the matter. I have had the original head that came with the boat (think it was a WC Head-Mate). The base on that unit was plastic and cracked within the first three years. The next one was a Groco HF, it was okay but not worth rebuilding. Then the Jabsco that I paid under $120 for. They wanted $99 for a new pump assy. That is when I decided on the PHII. They have them here on the HOW site at a good price if you're interested. The pump very easy and the dry/wet flush valve is easy to use. They also seem fairly easy to change over if you need the pump on the other side. They also have an electric upgrade kit if you are ever interested and can be change back to manual if required.
Dave: I feel your pain (pain in the ass, that is). We got one about 2-3 years ago. I tried to take it apart to lube the pump and the damn screws strip out of their plastic housing. Out head in the H'31 is small so we must have a compact type head. I decided to go with the PHII. I have been on several commercial type tour and fishing boats and they all seem to have these. They usually look like they are about 30 years old but seem to work well. This is what really made up my mind on the matter. I have had the original head that came with the boat (think it was a WC Head-Mate). The base on that unit was plastic and cracked within the first three years. The next one was a Groco HF, it was okay but not worth rebuilding. Then the Jabsco that I paid under $120 for. They wanted $99 for a new pump assy. That is when I decided on the PHII. They have them here on the HOW site at a good price if you're interested. The pump very easy and the dry/wet flush valve is easy to use. They also seem fairly easy to change over if you need the pump on the other side. They also have an electric upgrade kit if you are ever interested and can be change back to manual if required.
R
Robert Polk
What kind of problems?
Have same heads on 460 and they seem to work very well. What types of problems have you nexperienced.
Have same heads on 460 and they seem to work very well. What types of problems have you nexperienced.
P
Peggie Hall/HeadMistress
Manual or electric?
If manual, the Raritan PH II is your best choice. If electric, you want the Raritan SeaEra. It's designed to be an identical upgrade/replacement for the Jabsco 37010 electric...even the mounting bolt hole patterns match. Or, now would be a good time to upgrade from manual to the "push button convenience of electric--and even pressurized water flush...the Sea Era is available in both raw water and pressurized water models, and also as either complete toilets or "conversion kits" that would let you save money by recycling your existing bowls. Link to the Raritan website is below...you can check out the PH II and the various versions of the SeaEra--including the manuals for both--there. In either case, installation of any replacement toilet is the same: close the seacocks, remove the mounting bolts, disconnect the inlet and discharge hoses (and any electrical wiring)...set the new toilet down to figure out where the mountng bolt holes have to go. If the bolt holes aren't a match, fill the old ones (it's a good idea to do that even if they do match, so the new bolts can be sure of getting a good "bite"...you don't want a wobbly toilet)... bolt down the toilet and reconnect the plumbing and any wiring.
If manual, the Raritan PH II is your best choice. If electric, you want the Raritan SeaEra. It's designed to be an identical upgrade/replacement for the Jabsco 37010 electric...even the mounting bolt hole patterns match. Or, now would be a good time to upgrade from manual to the "push button convenience of electric--and even pressurized water flush...the Sea Era is available in both raw water and pressurized water models, and also as either complete toilets or "conversion kits" that would let you save money by recycling your existing bowls. Link to the Raritan website is below...you can check out the PH II and the various versions of the SeaEra--including the manuals for both--there. In either case, installation of any replacement toilet is the same: close the seacocks, remove the mounting bolts, disconnect the inlet and discharge hoses (and any electrical wiring)...set the new toilet down to figure out where the mountng bolt holes have to go. If the bolt holes aren't a match, fill the old ones (it's a good idea to do that even if they do match, so the new bolts can be sure of getting a good "bite"...you don't want a wobbly toilet)... bolt down the toilet and reconnect the plumbing and any wiring.
S
Scott Blahnik
Not crazy about mine, either
The base had fine cracks throughtout and leaked within the first year. Believe it or not, I have been able to seal the cracks and it is functional. I went to see about replacing it at West marine; low and behold, the demo model had the same cracks! Fool me twice, shame on me. I'd like another brand, manual, that utilizes the same footprint, if possible. I'm not looking forward to getting those hoses off, though. It seems they're practically glued.
The base had fine cracks throughtout and leaked within the first year. Believe it or not, I have been able to seal the cracks and it is functional. I went to see about replacing it at West marine; low and behold, the demo model had the same cracks! Fool me twice, shame on me. I'd like another brand, manual, that utilizes the same footprint, if possible. I'm not looking forward to getting those hoses off, though. It seems they're practically glued.
P
Peggie Hall/HeadMistress
How to remove the hoses:
If you're gonna replace hoses too, just cut the hoses behind the fittings...it won't matter if a toilet that's going to the dumpster has hoses dangling off it. A serrated knife works best. If you're not replacing hoses, warm them at the fittings with a blow dryer to soften both the hose and the sealant (which shouldn't be there, btw...NEVER use ANY sealant on sanitation fittings, only double hose clamps). Be careful not to overheat the hose, or it won't be re-usable. That won't necessarily make the hoses easy work off, but it will make it a lot easier. Don't pry around the edges with screwdriver either...that can stretch the hose enough to make it unre-useable.
If you're gonna replace hoses too, just cut the hoses behind the fittings...it won't matter if a toilet that's going to the dumpster has hoses dangling off it. A serrated knife works best. If you're not replacing hoses, warm them at the fittings with a blow dryer to soften both the hose and the sealant (which shouldn't be there, btw...NEVER use ANY sealant on sanitation fittings, only double hose clamps). Be careful not to overheat the hose, or it won't be re-usable. That won't necessarily make the hoses easy work off, but it will make it a lot easier. Don't pry around the edges with screwdriver either...that can stretch the hose enough to make it unre-useable.
T
Trevor
Hoses
If you are going to replace the toilet, you might as well replace the hoses as well - or at least the ones that you can reach without too much trouble. You may end up damaging the hoses where they attach anyway, and hoses often absorb odors. Something to consider. Trevor
If you are going to replace the toilet, you might as well replace the hoses as well - or at least the ones that you can reach without too much trouble. You may end up damaging the hoses where they attach anyway, and hoses often absorb odors. Something to consider. Trevor
P
Peggie Hall/HeadMistress
Maybe, Trevor...
Replacing hoses is a BIG job...replacing a toilet is very easy in comparison. So I wouldn't do it unless they're already showing signs of permeating. Which CAN happen that soon, or even sooner. There's no predicting how long it'll take a hose to permeate...Steve Dion's are 10 years old with no odor (at least that what he claims)...hoses had been on one of my boats for more than seven years when I sold it, and were still odorless. But the very same brand/type (Trident #148) permeated on another of my boats in less than 90 days. If hoses haven't even started to permeate on a 2 year old boat yet, the odds are pretty good that they'll be good for another 2-3 years.
Replacing hoses is a BIG job...replacing a toilet is very easy in comparison. So I wouldn't do it unless they're already showing signs of permeating. Which CAN happen that soon, or even sooner. There's no predicting how long it'll take a hose to permeate...Steve Dion's are 10 years old with no odor (at least that what he claims)...hoses had been on one of my boats for more than seven years when I sold it, and were still odorless. But the very same brand/type (Trident #148) permeated on another of my boats in less than 90 days. If hoses haven't even started to permeate on a 2 year old boat yet, the odds are pretty good that they'll be good for another 2-3 years.
- Status
- Not open for further replies.