We have a 1997 P42. The main waste hose connection from the tank for pumping out is about corroded away. There is very little left and could only use one hose clamp on it. I had to use stretch tape to seal the air leaks around the hose end. I understand that the company that made these aluminium tanks is not in business. I would greatly appreciate any advice from someone who has done this.
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In your waters, you don't need a holding tank
There aren't any "no discharge" waters within at least 500 miles of you in either direction--and not very many pumpout facilities either. That makes a Lectra/San (CG Certified Type I MSD that treats waste and discharges it overboard legally in all waters except those specifically designated "no discharge") the ideal solution for your boat. Why carry sewage around if you don't have to? Check it out on the Raritan website at http://www.raritaneng.com The 1.7 AH/flush power consumption looks a bit scary...till you realize that the average adult only uses the toilet 5x/day, making the average daily power consumption for 2 people only 20 AH...well within the capability of any decent housebank. The list price can look even scarier...but it's sold at DEEP discount...the best price I've seen is only $699. A decent quality tank and all the associated plumbing materials will cost you close to $500. So it's not that much more expensive either.
There aren't any "no discharge" waters within at least 500 miles of you in either direction--and not very many pumpout facilities either. That makes a Lectra/San (CG Certified Type I MSD that treats waste and discharges it overboard legally in all waters except those specifically designated "no discharge") the ideal solution for your boat. Why carry sewage around if you don't have to? Check it out on the Raritan website at http://www.raritaneng.com The 1.7 AH/flush power consumption looks a bit scary...till you realize that the average adult only uses the toilet 5x/day, making the average daily power consumption for 2 people only 20 AH...well within the capability of any decent housebank. The list price can look even scarier...but it's sold at DEEP discount...the best price I've seen is only $699. A decent quality tank and all the associated plumbing materials will cost you close to $500. So it's not that much more expensive either.
Bought mine through Hunter
I replaced my tank with a duplicate manufactured by the same company purchased through Hunter about 4 years ago. The tank was 8 years old. The real task was getting the old one out! I started on the foam with a small crow bar but soon found I had to go to a 24 inch flat blade screwdriver (Home Depot) to remove foam between the tank and fiberglass. If the problem is strictly the hose fitting, can you rig something like tapping a larger hole and using a size converting fitting to get you through another two or three years? Just a thought. Its not a fun job. Wondering why corrosion has occured at this point on the tank. That fitting is very seldom in contact with the contents of the tank unless it is always full.
I replaced my tank with a duplicate manufactured by the same company purchased through Hunter about 4 years ago. The tank was 8 years old. The real task was getting the old one out! I started on the foam with a small crow bar but soon found I had to go to a 24 inch flat blade screwdriver (Home Depot) to remove foam between the tank and fiberglass. If the problem is strictly the hose fitting, can you rig something like tapping a larger hole and using a size converting fitting to get you through another two or three years? Just a thought. Its not a fun job. Wondering why corrosion has occured at this point on the tank. That fitting is very seldom in contact with the contents of the tank unless it is always full.
I was wondering why, too
Victor I was wondering why the connection would be eaten up, too. The fittings for the hoses from the heads are in fine shape, but the 1.5" pumpout connection is almost all gone. I am working on some sort of more permanent repair, but remember there is a pipe that goes down into the tank to draw out the waste and that may complicate attaching anything to be a new fitting for the hose. I will call Hunter. What did you pay for the tank and why did you replace it? As for Peggy's suggestion about the processing plant, I wonder if it would fit in the limited space under the cabin floor, and because all the hoses were cut to the exact length, I would have to run new hoses from the heads, which won't be easy. I will start with seeing if the unit would fit.
Victor I was wondering why the connection would be eaten up, too. The fittings for the hoses from the heads are in fine shape, but the 1.5" pumpout connection is almost all gone. I am working on some sort of more permanent repair, but remember there is a pipe that goes down into the tank to draw out the waste and that may complicate attaching anything to be a new fitting for the hose. I will call Hunter. What did you pay for the tank and why did you replace it? As for Peggy's suggestion about the processing plant, I wonder if it would fit in the limited space under the cabin floor, and because all the hoses were cut to the exact length, I would have to run new hoses from the heads, which won't be easy. I will start with seeing if the unit would fit.
Can you share
I also have a 1997 P42 and have been thinking about needing to replace the holding tank.. thus would appreciate and sharing of what you learn from Hunter et. al.. Peggy has an interesting thought.. but also share your views on fitting.. thanks
I also have a 1997 P42 and have been thinking about needing to replace the holding tank.. thus would appreciate and sharing of what you learn from Hunter et. al.. Peggy has an interesting thought.. but also share your views on fitting.. thanks
More thoughts
I replaced my tank because it had developed tiny pinholes in the aluminum sheet. If you pressed on the top of the full tank you could see tiny spots of water appear. There was no damage to the fittings whatsoever. I replaced it because I was going cruising and didn't want to have to deal with it later. I believe the cost for the tank was about $150. To do again, I would probably rinse the inside of the new tank with a solvent and dry it with a vacuum cleaner. Then pour in a good quantity of epoxy and roll it around to cover all the faces and pour out the excess or just leave it on the bottom. Comments? With respect to replacing the hoses, I don't believe that a hose extension with a union in the hose would cause a blockage problem, given that the heads have macerators. In replacing the existing fitting, I am thinking a Dremel to cut out the old and clean the surrounding aluminum, then large washers (might have to fabricate these yourself) and a liquid steel product to mount the new barb and down-pipe. This of course assumes the rest of the tank is good. I am still puzzled by why only one of three fittings is falling apart. I assume it is the same aluminum pipe welded to the aluminum tank just like the other two. Can't see how galvanic corrosion could be happening unless the contents of the hoses or their metal wire are part of a circuit. FYI - That holding tank smell I tried to track down for a long time turned out to be the hoses leading from the galley sink to the through-hull. Replaced hoses, smell disappeared.
I replaced my tank because it had developed tiny pinholes in the aluminum sheet. If you pressed on the top of the full tank you could see tiny spots of water appear. There was no damage to the fittings whatsoever. I replaced it because I was going cruising and didn't want to have to deal with it later. I believe the cost for the tank was about $150. To do again, I would probably rinse the inside of the new tank with a solvent and dry it with a vacuum cleaner. Then pour in a good quantity of epoxy and roll it around to cover all the faces and pour out the excess or just leave it on the bottom. Comments? With respect to replacing the hoses, I don't believe that a hose extension with a union in the hose would cause a blockage problem, given that the heads have macerators. In replacing the existing fitting, I am thinking a Dremel to cut out the old and clean the surrounding aluminum, then large washers (might have to fabricate these yourself) and a liquid steel product to mount the new barb and down-pipe. This of course assumes the rest of the tank is good. I am still puzzled by why only one of three fittings is falling apart. I assume it is the same aluminum pipe welded to the aluminum tank just like the other two. Can't see how galvanic corrosion could be happening unless the contents of the hoses or their metal wire are part of a circuit. FYI - That holding tank smell I tried to track down for a long time turned out to be the hoses leading from the galley sink to the through-hull. Replaced hoses, smell disappeared.
Comments...
It's not galvanic corrosion that eats metal waste tanks, it's chemical/organic...urine is HIGHLY corrosive, and so are the gasses generated in the tank. There's no place inside a tank that isn't "under water" repeatedly no matter how little is in the tank...heeling, tacking and weather toss the contents all over the inside of it. So the fact that an upper fitting is the first place it leaks only means it was the "weakest link" in the tank material/construction...the rest of the tank is failing too. When you get it out, take a look inside it...you'll see just how close it is to turning into a collander. I'm only surprised it took this long for the first leak to happen...most metal waste tanks start to leak at seam or fitting within 2-5 years, and turn into a collander within 10 years...which is why plastic is the only recommended material for waste holding. As for where to put a Lectra/San...it's too tall to fit under the cabin sole on most sailboats...but it doesn't have to be lower than the head, only roughly at the same level as the head discharge and within 6' of the toilet. A lot people put it under the vanity in the head...but it can go under a settee, under the v-berth, or in a hanging locker just as easily. Dimensions and installation instructions are in the manual, which is on the Raritan website at the link I gave you in my first reply.
It's not galvanic corrosion that eats metal waste tanks, it's chemical/organic...urine is HIGHLY corrosive, and so are the gasses generated in the tank. There's no place inside a tank that isn't "under water" repeatedly no matter how little is in the tank...heeling, tacking and weather toss the contents all over the inside of it. So the fact that an upper fitting is the first place it leaks only means it was the "weakest link" in the tank material/construction...the rest of the tank is failing too. When you get it out, take a look inside it...you'll see just how close it is to turning into a collander. I'm only surprised it took this long for the first leak to happen...most metal waste tanks start to leak at seam or fitting within 2-5 years, and turn into a collander within 10 years...which is why plastic is the only recommended material for waste holding. As for where to put a Lectra/San...it's too tall to fit under the cabin sole on most sailboats...but it doesn't have to be lower than the head, only roughly at the same level as the head discharge and within 6' of the toilet. A lot people put it under the vanity in the head...but it can go under a settee, under the v-berth, or in a hanging locker just as easily. Dimensions and installation instructions are in the manual, which is on the Raritan website at the link I gave you in my first reply.
Me too!
I am in the process of finding a new holding tank for my 1998 P42. I asked Hunter and they recomended Duracast as a plastic tank replacement. I recently sent them drawings of the tank and am waiting for thier response. I don't want another aluminum tank but the people who made mine, Ezell industries, are still in business...called them just yesterday. I was thinking that the odors in my system must be coming from the cheap hose used for venting the tank. I was thinking of odorsafe hose on the vent, anybody done that? Anyway, it does look look like a big, messy and smelly job. If I get to mine first I'll let you know how it went.
I am in the process of finding a new holding tank for my 1998 P42. I asked Hunter and they recomended Duracast as a plastic tank replacement. I recently sent them drawings of the tank and am waiting for thier response. I don't want another aluminum tank but the people who made mine, Ezell industries, are still in business...called them just yesterday. I was thinking that the odors in my system must be coming from the cheap hose used for venting the tank. I was thinking of odorsafe hose on the vent, anybody done that? Anyway, it does look look like a big, messy and smelly job. If I get to mine first I'll let you know how it went.
OdorSafe only available in 1.5"
So unless you want to increase the vent line diameter, you'll have to use Shields or Trident. However, I'd test the vent line to find out if it's permeated before replacing it. It may not be the source of the odor. While you're testing hoses, check 'em all. As for a new tank...I wouldn't want one from either of those sources--one because it's aluminum...the other because I know their quality.
So unless you want to increase the vent line diameter, you'll have to use Shields or Trident. However, I'd test the vent line to find out if it's permeated before replacing it. It may not be the source of the odor. While you're testing hoses, check 'em all. As for a new tank...I wouldn't want one from either of those sources--one because it's aluminum...the other because I know their quality.
Thanks for the smile, Peggie
Who else would recommend that we "take a look inside" our old holding tanks. I simply taped over the fittings (important step!), found a volunteer without getting into specifics about the task, and hauled it to the dumpster. Despite my scientific training, it was just more than I needed to know. Thanks for being there for us, Peggie
Who else would recommend that we "take a look inside" our old holding tanks. I simply taped over the fittings (important step!), found a volunteer without getting into specifics about the task, and hauled it to the dumpster. Despite my scientific training, it was just more than I needed to know. Thanks for being there for us, Peggie
Peggie, who do you recommend?
I looked into replacing my tank last summer and had no luck. Don't want to reduce capacity so I need someone who can custom make quality tanks. Thanks, Brian
I looked into replacing my tank last summer and had no luck. Don't want to reduce capacity so I need someone who can custom make quality tanks. Thanks, Brian
P42 Holding Tank
I replaced the holding tank on my P42. The best way to remove it is to saw the foam with a regular carpenters saw between the tank and the foam and then drop a halyard through the hatch to break it loose. I replaced it with a tank from the original manufacturer with aluminum fittings instead of the original bronze fittings.
I replaced the holding tank on my P42. The best way to remove it is to saw the foam with a regular carpenters saw between the tank and the foam and then drop a halyard through the hatch to break it loose. I replaced it with a tank from the original manufacturer with aluminum fittings instead of the original bronze fittings.
You only want a plastic tank for waste holding
Urine is so corrosive that any metal tank--aluminum, even 316 stainless--typically starts to leak at a weld within 2-5 years and turns into a collander within 10 years. If you can't find one to fit the space amoung the more than 400 shapes and sizes Ronco has to offer (http://www.ronco-plastics.com ) has to offer, the only source I know of that makes good quality custom plastic tanks is C.C. Tech...they're at http://www.gocctech.com/marine/boat-tank.htm Or...unless in you're in the Great Lakes or the 10% of coastal US and Canadian waters that are "no discharge," you could replace the tank with Lectra/San, which treats and discharges a flush at a time, eliminating the need to store sewage aboard at all.
Urine is so corrosive that any metal tank--aluminum, even 316 stainless--typically starts to leak at a weld within 2-5 years and turns into a collander within 10 years. If you can't find one to fit the space amoung the more than 400 shapes and sizes Ronco has to offer (http://www.ronco-plastics.com ) has to offer, the only source I know of that makes good quality custom plastic tanks is C.C. Tech...they're at http://www.gocctech.com/marine/boat-tank.htm Or...unless in you're in the Great Lakes or the 10% of coastal US and Canadian waters that are "no discharge," you could replace the tank with Lectra/San, which treats and discharges a flush at a time, eliminating the need to store sewage aboard at all.
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