h340 2000 battery bank wiring diagram

[Cool_Change]

Has anyone done up a wiring diagram for their h340 ~2000? I'm working on tracing, documenting (and understanding as it seems an odd setup) ours but would help to have something to compare against.

I'm not sure whether some of this has been added post-factory or not but in our case we have:
-Start battery plus a house bank (2 x 6V)
-Standard 1/2/both/off switch
-An on/off switch beside it on the start battery
-Digital duo charge regulator
-Protech 4 charger
-Xantrex battery monitor
-Loads including engine, house, windlass, etc

As near as I can tell the start and house systems are isolated although what really has me wondering is the way the 1/2/both/off switch is used. It seems to always have to be in both for everything to work and the only connection to what would normally be the switch output is from one of the two Protech charger leads (the other goes straight to the house bank). It's almost as if the switch is for distributing charge vs power but not sure why...

I've added a pdf of what I've traced out so far...still a few unknowns and need to spend some time confirming but getting there...

Scott

 

[Cool_Change]

System diagram (draft) added...

I'ved attached a pdf of what I have so far...

 

[David Dick]

Hi Scott, My name is David Dick, i have a 2001 340. i am in Oakville. i know a bit about the 340 wiring as i have upgraded my charging, monitoring (link 2000) and battery set up. I have the original binder with wiring diagrams. send me an email at ddick@cropmarks.net maybe i can help.
Dave

 

[sailcapt340]

I also have a 2000 340

Scott,
I don't know if Dave's 2001 340 diagrams are the same, but I have the complete manual that came with my 340 in 2000. Your welcomed to them if you want, I can copy them and send them out. If this will help, I'm glad to do it. Let me know, my email is sailcaptain1@verizon.net

John

 

[Cool_Change]

I have what I think is a complete binder but don't recall it going to the detail I need around the battery banks, switches, charger, etc...am on the boat for the next 4 days though (yep...it's tough) so will go thru it again and finish tracing through.

Also connecting with David as we're nearby.

For anyone interested I've also attached here a diagram of how I think things should be connected. Theory being that I'd normally run with the switch in position 1 and bridge everything together thru Both for emergency starting etc. Comments welcome. Note that the on/off switch is literally an on/off in the aft cockpit locker, not the ignition switch on the pedestal...an added level of anti-theft I'm told...

Scott

 

[Andy1237]

Okay, I'm a neophyte when it comes to this stuff, but one question/comment/suggestion. On the Bank #1 you have 2 six volt batteries for 12 volts output. Why wouldn't you parallel two 12 volt batteries for the same voltage, more amps?, My "fail soft" idea is that if a cell goes dead in either 6Volt you have no power in Bank 1 (my experience is that a dead cell will short the whole bank). But by having two 12vs, if one of them has a dead cell, the remaining 12 volt my "get you through the night".
Am I thinking correctly?

 

[Ed Caldwell]

Cool change, I don't have a wiring diagram, but you might be interested in the changes I made on our 99 H340 in the Owner Mods:
http://hunter.sailboatowners.com/in...id=267&cat_id=32&aid=7457&page=article&mn=340

 

[Cool_Change]

2x6V vs 2x12V

Andy...Replacing the 2 6V in series with 2 12V in parallel is one of the things I'm considering too. Just didn't draw that into the target state.

Does anyone know if from a charging perspective it's ok to charge 2 12V connected in parallel at the same time? And on either the shorepower charger or off the duo charge when running?

My other option is to put the 2 12V on either side of the 1/2/both switch and completely separate the start battery and that circuit. Then carry jumper cables in case I need to bridge everything together for emergency start etc.

Scott

 

[Ivan]

Paralleling 2 12 V batteries is perfectly OK, providing they are the same type, and that they are both in about the same condition. That is it would not do to have an old dog that can barely reach 12.2 V open circuit with a new battery that normally runs 12.8 V because the old one will draw down the new one until they are both so-so.

The battery charger will deliver it's best to both when paralelled, and the current will distribute itself depending on their charge; but if they have been paralelled for a long time it will be roughly 50-50.

 

[Andy1237]

The original charger on my 340 died. I replaced it with same OEM Procharger. It may have failed due to low voltage supplied by dock power which has since been repaired. Several other charges died during the same time.

It actually has outputs for three batteries. Originally it had Positive 1 & 2 bridged for one battery bank and Positive 3 going to the other battery. I guess thats a shunt? Anyway, I removed it and now have a hot l12 volt lead from the charger to each of the three 12 volt batteries. Seems to keep fully loaded with minimal charge time..and the fridge has run a lot during this hot summer. Previously I would shut down the fridge unless I was plugged in or motoring but now I keep it running most of the time.

 

[Cool_Change]

Procharge

Andy, My read of the procharge manual is that it can handle 3 batteries but that if you have less than this connected then need to bridge the unused terminal to one of the others (ie can't have one simply not connected).

If I go with 2 x 12V (in parallel) and the separate start battery then I could put the charger to each but since the 2 are in parallel would be the same as bridging two terminals as above.

So I think I'm going shopping this weekend for 2 12V's and starting to move things (carefully) around...I'm getting some low voltage alarms from autopilot whenever it uses it's drive so I'm thinking that the 2 6Vs are done.

Thanks everyone.