This would put the mast in the boat's DC electrical circuit, which isn't a good idea. In addition to the mast, the shrouds, the bonding system would also be placed into the DC system. The bonding system connects various metal bits in the boat to equalize the electrical potential between them to reduce galvanic reactions. This could accelerate the degradation of the various metals.If the mast itself is grounded the light itself can be grounded to the bolt that attaches the light to the mast. Sort of how they do it on trailer lights.
I never put that together until I read this post. I must have rewired my trailer at least 50 times over the years.I also agree with Dlochner. I would only add that but using the mast ground, you invite the same issues That plague trailer lights. By that I mean poor ground connections due to corrosion at multiple points of contact. I always run separate grounds even in a trailer so that when a little bit of corrosion gets in a connection on the trailer it doesn't stop the lights from functioning properly.
I'd use marine, tinned wire when rewiring a boat. Tinned wire is more corrosion resistant and you get consistent jacket material. Considering the challenges associated with running the wire and properly crimping connections, the little extra cost of the marine grade wire isn't much.I do have 16 gauge tinned wire that I'm using in the mast is it necessary to use tinned wire throughout the boat?
WOW... Did not take me that many times.I must have rewired my trailer at least 50 times over the years.
Use insulated heat shrink adhesive connectors. Best to heat them with a heat gun, lighters and flames can get too hot. Also use a proper crimper.what kind of wire connectors are you using to connect the mask to the boat