Last August I posted about a problem I was having with my batteries. (See “House Batteries Boiling – Suspect Battery Charger Wiring” in the Bavaria forum.) I thought about this all winter long and have just finished tracing though all the original wiring and the aftermarket add-ons. I have a pretty good idea what I want to do, but I thought it might be best to get some fresh eyes on the design before I start ripping everything apart and make it worse ;-)
For those who aren’t familiar with the German wiring in Bavarias, they use black for DC positive and blue for DC negative. (This kept confusing me since I’m used to seeing black for DC negative. I ended up taping the lines red and yellow to follow the new ABYC standard.) The boat’s wiring diagram is in German, so it helps to know that “schwartz” and “blau” mean “black” and “blue” since they are abbreviated as SW and BL. Also common to German practice, the original main switch isolates the negative battery lead, not the positive. I plan to leave the original switch intact but always leave it in the ON position.
So here are the modifications I am planning: (1) Adding a new OFF/ON/COMBINE battery switch (Blue Sea 5511e) to allow me to use the house batteries to start the engine if my starting battery fails. (2) Moving all the aftermarket equipment, which is currently wired directly to the house batteries, to a separate fuse block (Blue Sea 5025). (3) Replacing the battery charger with a 50A, 3-bank ProMariner ProNautic 1250P with a battery temperature sensor. (This is similar to the Sterling Power unit recommended by Maine Sail.)
I have attached a diagram of the plan. I have a few questions already: Is it OK to leave the 125A house battery fuse where it is (before the battery switch)? If I ever need to combine the batteries to start the engine will that fuse blow? Do I need a fuse between the house battery and fuse block? And please let me know anything else you see that might need improvement!
Thanks,
Chris
For those who aren’t familiar with the German wiring in Bavarias, they use black for DC positive and blue for DC negative. (This kept confusing me since I’m used to seeing black for DC negative. I ended up taping the lines red and yellow to follow the new ABYC standard.) The boat’s wiring diagram is in German, so it helps to know that “schwartz” and “blau” mean “black” and “blue” since they are abbreviated as SW and BL. Also common to German practice, the original main switch isolates the negative battery lead, not the positive. I plan to leave the original switch intact but always leave it in the ON position.
So here are the modifications I am planning: (1) Adding a new OFF/ON/COMBINE battery switch (Blue Sea 5511e) to allow me to use the house batteries to start the engine if my starting battery fails. (2) Moving all the aftermarket equipment, which is currently wired directly to the house batteries, to a separate fuse block (Blue Sea 5025). (3) Replacing the battery charger with a 50A, 3-bank ProMariner ProNautic 1250P with a battery temperature sensor. (This is similar to the Sterling Power unit recommended by Maine Sail.)
I have attached a diagram of the plan. I have a few questions already: Is it OK to leave the 125A house battery fuse where it is (before the battery switch)? If I ever need to combine the batteries to start the engine will that fuse blow? Do I need a fuse between the house battery and fuse block? And please let me know anything else you see that might need improvement!
Thanks,
Chris
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