1981 - 27' Seeking info on the replacement of: 1) The fuel filter 2) The bleeding procedure & location of parts to do same. Egwahlers@aol.com
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Actually it should be Fuel FilterS.
Ed: There actually should be TWO fuel filters for your engine. The primary filter may be a Fram (disposable), or Racor type of filter. There is also a small filter on the engine (small bowl on front of the engine). Many owners like to have a little amount of diesel fuel to fill the filters before they put them into their recepticles. This helps eliminate some of the pumping that is required. Once you have both of these filters in place you can loosen the lower bleed screw on the engine (this screw is actually 10mm bolt with a phillips head). Then you can use the thumb pump on the fuel pump. This may be difficult to find but it is on the starboard side of the engine (2GM), I don't know where it is on the 1GM. You will need to follow the fuel hoses back toward the tank to find it. Once fuel is coming out of the bleed screw (no more air), you can tighten it up. Quite often you do not need to loosen the injector side to bleed the engine. If the engine does not start, then you may need to bleed at the injector too. Run you engine in the dock in gear for 10-20 mins after you complete the process. This will be a good indication if it is going to stay running. PS: Get a Yanmaar Service Manual. Give you some idea of what to look for. You can get one from Mack Boring. There is also some other manuals available on these engines available at book store or Amazon.com
Ed: There actually should be TWO fuel filters for your engine. The primary filter may be a Fram (disposable), or Racor type of filter. There is also a small filter on the engine (small bowl on front of the engine). Many owners like to have a little amount of diesel fuel to fill the filters before they put them into their recepticles. This helps eliminate some of the pumping that is required. Once you have both of these filters in place you can loosen the lower bleed screw on the engine (this screw is actually 10mm bolt with a phillips head). Then you can use the thumb pump on the fuel pump. This may be difficult to find but it is on the starboard side of the engine (2GM), I don't know where it is on the 1GM. You will need to follow the fuel hoses back toward the tank to find it. Once fuel is coming out of the bleed screw (no more air), you can tighten it up. Quite often you do not need to loosen the injector side to bleed the engine. If the engine does not start, then you may need to bleed at the injector too. Run you engine in the dock in gear for 10-20 mins after you complete the process. This will be a good indication if it is going to stay running. PS: Get a Yanmaar Service Manual. Give you some idea of what to look for. You can get one from Mack Boring. There is also some other manuals available on these engines available at book store or Amazon.com
H
Howard
Filter change & Bleed
Steve is right on. In order to make re-starting a little easier after a filter change I do the following: 1) Change the big rancor and small engine filter making sure that they are on correctly.I usually bring the old one into the shop to make sure I get the right ones. I replace them. I once didn't have them on tight an it looked OK but there was a small drip that I didn't see. I left the boat and after 2 weeks away there was a nice 5 gallons if desiel in the bilge. What a mess to clean up. Advice...make sure they are on correctly and tight. 2) After the filters are on, remove the hose into the small engine filter. Have a small coffe can or plastic cup ready. The hose in on the front left side of the engine (when your facing the engine). You take this hose off so you can fill the primary filter (the big one) with fuel and get the air out. On my boat I have sometimes have to gently suck the air out of the line to get the fuel flowing. The fuel goes from the tank into the primary filter and into the engine filter like a siphon so you have to get it srarted. Some times if the fuel line is full you don't need any mouth suction. Careful diesel taste disgusting. After the fule is flowing in a small stream into the cup attach it to the engine filter. 3) Remove the bleed screw from the top of the filter. There is still air in the small filter so don't start the engine yet. With the bleed screw removed I use a small plastic syringe that I got from West Marine to inject clean diesel into the bleed screw hole. You can use the fuel in the cup if it's clean. The idea is to fill the filter bowl on the engine with fuel rather than air. You can also use a paper cup with a few ounces of fuel in it . Crimp the top to form a spout an pour it into the bleed screw. (Use this trick if you ever run the tank dry. It saves a lot of time an effort bleeding the engine). 4) When the bowl is full start to pump the fuel with the thumb pump near the side of the filter bowl under where the fuel line is connected. Pump until no more bubles come out of the brleed screw hole. Now put the bleed screw back in loose an pump some more. When there are no more bubbles tighten the screw Be sure to put rags under all of the areas that you are working to catch the fuel drips. 5) If you haven't run the engine dry you should be able to start. If it ran before and won't start 90% change you have some air in the lines. 6) If so I follow the fule lines bleeding them from the filter to the injector. Loosen one connection at a time. I press the decompression lever and turn the engine over for a few seconds until I get a stream of fuel (no air). This may be more than you need to know but when your out on the water and you get an air lock it may help
Steve is right on. In order to make re-starting a little easier after a filter change I do the following: 1) Change the big rancor and small engine filter making sure that they are on correctly.I usually bring the old one into the shop to make sure I get the right ones. I replace them. I once didn't have them on tight an it looked OK but there was a small drip that I didn't see. I left the boat and after 2 weeks away there was a nice 5 gallons if desiel in the bilge. What a mess to clean up. Advice...make sure they are on correctly and tight. 2) After the filters are on, remove the hose into the small engine filter. Have a small coffe can or plastic cup ready. The hose in on the front left side of the engine (when your facing the engine). You take this hose off so you can fill the primary filter (the big one) with fuel and get the air out. On my boat I have sometimes have to gently suck the air out of the line to get the fuel flowing. The fuel goes from the tank into the primary filter and into the engine filter like a siphon so you have to get it srarted. Some times if the fuel line is full you don't need any mouth suction. Careful diesel taste disgusting. After the fule is flowing in a small stream into the cup attach it to the engine filter. 3) Remove the bleed screw from the top of the filter. There is still air in the small filter so don't start the engine yet. With the bleed screw removed I use a small plastic syringe that I got from West Marine to inject clean diesel into the bleed screw hole. You can use the fuel in the cup if it's clean. The idea is to fill the filter bowl on the engine with fuel rather than air. You can also use a paper cup with a few ounces of fuel in it . Crimp the top to form a spout an pour it into the bleed screw. (Use this trick if you ever run the tank dry. It saves a lot of time an effort bleeding the engine). 4) When the bowl is full start to pump the fuel with the thumb pump near the side of the filter bowl under where the fuel line is connected. Pump until no more bubles come out of the brleed screw hole. Now put the bleed screw back in loose an pump some more. When there are no more bubbles tighten the screw Be sure to put rags under all of the areas that you are working to catch the fuel drips. 5) If you haven't run the engine dry you should be able to start. If it ran before and won't start 90% change you have some air in the lines. 6) If so I follow the fule lines bleeding them from the filter to the injector. Loosen one connection at a time. I press the decompression lever and turn the engine over for a few seconds until I get a stream of fuel (no air). This may be more than you need to know but when your out on the water and you get an air lock it may help
B
Bruce C.
Thank you!!!!
VERY timely post ! My fuel gauge must be broken, as I ran out of fuel yesterday in my '79 Hunter 27 right around the harbor from you. I got a tow to the fuel dock, but the engine woudn't start and I had NO IDEA how to bleed the lines. So, I searched the Hunter website and found your link -- EXACTLY what I was looking for! Thanks for making up for a bad weekend. (If there is such a thing when you're out on the water on such a beautiful day).
VERY timely post ! My fuel gauge must be broken, as I ran out of fuel yesterday in my '79 Hunter 27 right around the harbor from you. I got a tow to the fuel dock, but the engine woudn't start and I had NO IDEA how to bleed the lines. So, I searched the Hunter website and found your link -- EXACTLY what I was looking for! Thanks for making up for a bad weekend. (If there is such a thing when you're out on the water on such a beautiful day).
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