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Finding and fixing leaks

Jun 8, 2004
8,888
-na -NA Anywhere USA
@mark2
tomorrow I am shutting down for a week for surgery. If you do not find those leaks, send me a private email in about two weeks and I will respond back. Crazy Dave
 
Jun 21, 2004
7
- - Millville, NJ
My 170 gets water in the hull sitting on the trailer. No hull cracks big enough to get that much water in the hull. My guess at this point is the rub rail. My plan is to clean the seam between the hull and rub rail and then seal it with a silicone caulk. Going to start with the topside first.
 
Apr 16, 2017
841
Federation NCC-1701 Riverside
My 170 gets water in the hull sitting on the trailer. No hull cracks big enough to get that much water in the hull. My guess at this point is the rub rail. My plan is to clean the seam between the hull and rub rail and then seal it with a silicone caulk. Going to start with the topside first.
Thats interesting. You can test this then..

My hypothesis is the water is pooling at the furler through hull. The leak is the throughhull or the connection inside between the through hull at the furler or yhe through hull in the cockpit.

The next pkace to check is the the centerboard housing. Water is drippingdown the side and is leaking in the seams from top side to bottom or the water is getting trapped on that bottom seam overlapp.

I would think the centerboard housing leak would be very dramatic for water intake off the trailer.

Id lift trailer hitch over head to drain hull, then run a hose into the furler at the bow.

Should nt be any water draining out except for water coming out of cockpit through hull.
 
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Jun 21, 2007
2,093
Hunter Cherubini 36_80-82 Sausalito / San Francisco Bay
I believe most of my leaks on my 1980 Hunter 27 are coming in from the toe rail and stanchions. Outside of removing the entire rail and all the stanchions, is there an easier method to fixing these? I have yards of butyl at the ready. Going to do something, but looking for advice from others who have found the best approach.

Also, what is the easiest way to loosen/tighten all the bolts for the toe rail and stanchions from inside the cabin as the bolts are so much deep that getting to the nuts is a problem. Obviously cannot get a drill into most of the spaces to do it quickly.

Thanks!
I will also send you a PM suggesting you go back to this thread.... just another level the ensure you pick up. And I will give you a link to a post I made many years ago which includes maybe some useful tips.

My 1980 Hunter Cherubini (same manufacturer vintage and toe rail to deck to hull construction as your 27) leaked from the toe rail joint when I bought it. I decided to check how well "snugged up" the 1/4" tow rail screws/nuts were. All were not even close. I snugged them up. In the process, I noticed that the original OEM butyl tape began to squeeze out from around the tow rail. The stuff was still pliable after ~35 years! So re-compressed, it sealed the joint again. Outcome: No leaks since! One caveat though. Don't over-tighten each screw. Make them firm but resist the temptation to a 500 lb gorilla job.
 
Jul 23, 2013
20
Hunter 37
I believe most of my leaks on my 1980 Hunter 27 are coming in from the toe rail and stanchions. Outside of removing the entire rail and all the stanchions, is there an easier method to fixing these? I have yards of butyl at the ready. Going to do something, but looking for advice from others who have found the best approach.

Also, what is the easiest way to loosen/tighten all the bolts for the toe rail and stanchions from inside the cabin as the bolts are so much deep that getting to the nuts is a problem. Obviously cannot get a drill into most of the spaces to do it quickly.

Thanks!
I thought the same thing about my ‘80 Hunter 37’. Turned out in was through the rigging chain plates and other hardware like some fare leas and the pulpit. Pulled the hardware and NEWS FLASH! Six of the eight chain plates showed hairline cracks from a bolt hole to an out side edge. The guy who walks on water was holding my boat together! I dug out the damp wood filled it with epoxy and installed the new / repaired chain plates. (Some could have the cracks welded.) Made the leak problem look small.
 

mark2

.
Dec 10, 2012
52
Hunter 18 Raleigh
@mark2
tomorrow I am shutting down for a week for surgery. If you do not find those leaks, send me a private email in about two weeks and I will respond back. Crazy Dave
Dave, thanks for the brilliant idea of pressurizing the hull and using soapy water. It did not reveal anything (directly)... smeared soapy water all over the inside of the centerboard slot with the board removed (most likely leak location). Tight as a drum, not a bubble to be found. Went under, went from the topside. Nada. Soaped the entire exterior hull. Nothing.

But... I did notice that at the top rear of the centerboard slot the top hull is glued to the vertical walls of the slot. It is not clear if this is intended to be water tight, I think it is above the water line by a fair bit. But there was plenty of air coming through that joint (I could hear the air rush). It must be this, but I thought this was above the water line (maybe it splashes a lot up there?).



Now how to fix (assuming this is the problem)? First, is 3M 5200 sealant a good choice? I have used it elsewhere on the boat and it seems to remain flexible and holds up well. Second, how in the world to get it there? It is at the top of a 2 foot slot that is only about 2-3 inches wide. I don't think the caulking tube would fit, much less my hand/arm. Any tricks/suggestions for caulking is such a tight space?

I sure hope this is it... the wife is threatening to sell the boat if we cannot find the leak!
 
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