I have a 1974 CAL 27, a very well kept and remodeled boat. The Farymann A30 engine doesn't start and throws crancase oil, apparently out of the gasket below the cylinder. Getting the thing out to see what is wrong seems to be impossible. I have removed the alternator, waterpump (which is also toast, the bearing is shot), starter and disconnected the drive and all cables. Any ideas on how to get enough of the mounting brackets disconnected to get it through the opening into the cabin?? I have loved this engine and would like to overhaul it and the parts are available at PRP in NJ. Anybody have experience with one?? Bob Ditzler ditzler@kutamba.com
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Farymann
I have a 2-29. Previous owner removed the A-30. I'm not familiar with access dimensions for your Cal 27 but would like to pass along this advice from previous owner of my boat:remove only the topmost nuts from the engine mounts so that engine alignment is preserved. On the Cal 29 there is sufficient clearance to then lift engine off mounts. Do you have A-30 manual? Perhaps you could do some partial disassembly to make room.
I have a 2-29. Previous owner removed the A-30. I'm not familiar with access dimensions for your Cal 27 but would like to pass along this advice from previous owner of my boat:remove only the topmost nuts from the engine mounts so that engine alignment is preserved. On the Cal 29 there is sufficient clearance to then lift engine off mounts. Do you have A-30 manual? Perhaps you could do some partial disassembly to make room.
S
steve,Second Wind
Faryman A-30 removal
Hi, I've pulled the engine, minus tranny, from my "76 cal 227. One must take the head and cylinder off to get the engine thru the galley opening. I built a "c" bracket out of steel pipe, that slides over the counter and under the counter, the top part is hooked to a lifting device(chain hoist), the bottom to straps on the engine. This C unit allows a straight lift on the engine. Then you only have the problem of sliding the engine forward and out. My system involved sliding the hoist crosspiece above the hatch forward. Scary and involved. I couldn't quite get the engine tilted out until I cut out the wood crosspiece that the steps rest on . Gave me a couple of extra inches( just the wood behind the 'glass. Then of course, I had to haywire the wood back in). Recent work on a motor mount had me taking out the wood between the engine compartment and the drawers. I didn't remove the mounts when I pulled the engine, but if you are frustrated by accesss problems like I was, wood panal removal might help get to those hard fasteners. Hope you have a good friend to help. Good Luck. Steve, cal227@hotmail.com
Hi, I've pulled the engine, minus tranny, from my "76 cal 227. One must take the head and cylinder off to get the engine thru the galley opening. I built a "c" bracket out of steel pipe, that slides over the counter and under the counter, the top part is hooked to a lifting device(chain hoist), the bottom to straps on the engine. This C unit allows a straight lift on the engine. Then you only have the problem of sliding the engine forward and out. My system involved sliding the hoist crosspiece above the hatch forward. Scary and involved. I couldn't quite get the engine tilted out until I cut out the wood crosspiece that the steps rest on . Gave me a couple of extra inches( just the wood behind the 'glass. Then of course, I had to haywire the wood back in). Recent work on a motor mount had me taking out the wood between the engine compartment and the drawers. I didn't remove the mounts when I pulled the engine, but if you are frustrated by accesss problems like I was, wood panal removal might help get to those hard fasteners. Hope you have a good friend to help. Good Luck. Steve, cal227@hotmail.com
S
steve,second wind
A-30 overhaul
After more thought, you may not have to pull your engine. If you are blowing oil out at the cylinder, you've got gasket problems. Possibly the head bolts have fatigued and elongated, loosening the cylinder,( which may not even have a gasket at the bottom. I can't remember) Have you been cleaning the crankcase vent valve? Got to do that every 20-30 hours. If it sticks, crankcase pressure will build. Whatever your oil/starting problems, the engine should not have to come out. The head and cylinder can be replaced right there. You should find why it won't start without having to pull the little devil. Getting fuel to the injecter? Water in the cylinder? Only so many things can be wrong on a diesel.
After more thought, you may not have to pull your engine. If you are blowing oil out at the cylinder, you've got gasket problems. Possibly the head bolts have fatigued and elongated, loosening the cylinder,( which may not even have a gasket at the bottom. I can't remember) Have you been cleaning the crankcase vent valve? Got to do that every 20-30 hours. If it sticks, crankcase pressure will build. Whatever your oil/starting problems, the engine should not have to come out. The head and cylinder can be replaced right there. You should find why it won't start without having to pull the little devil. Getting fuel to the injecter? Water in the cylinder? Only so many things can be wrong on a diesel.
S
Scott
crankcase vent valve
Hi, someone mentioned that this must be cleaned every 20-30 hours. Could you describe where this is, and how to clean it?
Hi, someone mentioned that this must be cleaned every 20-30 hours. Could you describe where this is, and how to clean it?
Starter replacement on a-30
Any of you a-30 owners know where to get spare parts such as the starter for this particular engine? Bob, did you resolve your leaking oil problem. I am experiencing the same problem but haven't yet determined where I'm loosing the oil.
Any of you a-30 owners know where to get spare parts such as the starter for this particular engine? Bob, did you resolve your leaking oil problem. I am experiencing the same problem but haven't yet determined where I'm loosing the oil.
G
Gord H
A30M removal from 2-27
how to remove an A30M from a 2-27: unbolt the driveshaft, fuel, tranny, and elect cables. remove the starter & alternator remove to engine mounts at the bell housing drop the engine to the hull, and tip the top out first. Attach your main sheet block to the lifting eye and bring up and out to the dock. there is a cooling ring/cylinder sleeve that leaks raw water onto the top of your aluminum block after about 10 years of life, then after another 10 years of leaking the salt corrodes a hole in the top of the block. - check for water in your oil, as long as you have not damaged the internal engine with salt, you can repair the hole with epoxy, and proceed to rebuild you engine.. here is a clip from another email: you can ignore the leak until the salt corrodes right through to your crank case, then dump the engine, cut your transom and mount a nice brand new yam 9.9. (3K can) OR, as I did... you can bite the bullet and spent almost 3K can to rebuild the beast yourself. She may vibrate the fillings from the back of your teeth, but let me tell you she is built like a tank, very high quality splash lubrication with roller bearing crank bearings, you can hand crank start it, and if you do a lot of motoring, you will appreciate how little fuel she consumes. She also does not have an oil filter. quirks: the throttle detents wear away, hence the return spring overpowers, and the throttle races away (disconnect to resolve) main fuel filter leaks a bit from the bottom nut (replace with captive nut and copper washer) be sure everything on the engine is torqued, and has lock wachers or locktite (cause she will vibrate apart) the original cooling jacket was plastic, and after about 10 years, they all start to leak due to salt build up.....two options for repair: #1..replace only the cooling jacket with a new brass one (risky according to Willy at Sidney Propellor) #2..repace the cooling jacket and cylinder sleeve as a unit, which is what I did, my cylinder sleeve was totally corroded, and the head studs were seized to the block this is like rebuilding a lawnmower engine, with a fuel injector, nothing more. rought cost of parts in can dollars: cooling jacket cylinder sleeve 1200.00 new head studs 400.00 gasket set 200.00 rear motor mounts 200.00 clean & test injector 100.00 rebuild head 300.00 valve sleeves, frost plugs 100.00 primer, paint, oil, 200.00 rebuilt starter, alternator, and water pump seals, bearings 300.00 machine shop labour to remove studs, and install new ones 200.00 bingo - BRAND NEW 25 YEAR OLD ENGINE!!!!! enjoy!! oh ya, we have a local Farrymann dealer Sidney Propellor 250-656-3421 Gord 2-27 Cheerio
how to remove an A30M from a 2-27: unbolt the driveshaft, fuel, tranny, and elect cables. remove the starter & alternator remove to engine mounts at the bell housing drop the engine to the hull, and tip the top out first. Attach your main sheet block to the lifting eye and bring up and out to the dock. there is a cooling ring/cylinder sleeve that leaks raw water onto the top of your aluminum block after about 10 years of life, then after another 10 years of leaking the salt corrodes a hole in the top of the block. - check for water in your oil, as long as you have not damaged the internal engine with salt, you can repair the hole with epoxy, and proceed to rebuild you engine.. here is a clip from another email: you can ignore the leak until the salt corrodes right through to your crank case, then dump the engine, cut your transom and mount a nice brand new yam 9.9. (3K can) OR, as I did... you can bite the bullet and spent almost 3K can to rebuild the beast yourself. She may vibrate the fillings from the back of your teeth, but let me tell you she is built like a tank, very high quality splash lubrication with roller bearing crank bearings, you can hand crank start it, and if you do a lot of motoring, you will appreciate how little fuel she consumes. She also does not have an oil filter. quirks: the throttle detents wear away, hence the return spring overpowers, and the throttle races away (disconnect to resolve) main fuel filter leaks a bit from the bottom nut (replace with captive nut and copper washer) be sure everything on the engine is torqued, and has lock wachers or locktite (cause she will vibrate apart) the original cooling jacket was plastic, and after about 10 years, they all start to leak due to salt build up.....two options for repair: #1..replace only the cooling jacket with a new brass one (risky according to Willy at Sidney Propellor) #2..repace the cooling jacket and cylinder sleeve as a unit, which is what I did, my cylinder sleeve was totally corroded, and the head studs were seized to the block this is like rebuilding a lawnmower engine, with a fuel injector, nothing more. rought cost of parts in can dollars: cooling jacket cylinder sleeve 1200.00 new head studs 400.00 gasket set 200.00 rear motor mounts 200.00 clean & test injector 100.00 rebuild head 300.00 valve sleeves, frost plugs 100.00 primer, paint, oil, 200.00 rebuilt starter, alternator, and water pump seals, bearings 300.00 machine shop labour to remove studs, and install new ones 200.00 bingo - BRAND NEW 25 YEAR OLD ENGINE!!!!! enjoy!! oh ya, we have a local Farrymann dealer Sidney Propellor 250-656-3421 Gord 2-27 Cheerio
S
Scott
replacement parts
I was able to get a brand new transmission for my A30 from a place in Portland, OR: Entec West 800-458-5065 The person I talked to there was Dave Oostman, who was very knowledgeable and helpful.
I was able to get a brand new transmission for my A30 from a place in Portland, OR: Entec West 800-458-5065 The person I talked to there was Dave Oostman, who was very knowledgeable and helpful.
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