Daggerboard trunk pics (26D)

[FuzzyBadger]

Hi all.
Would anyone have pics (from beneath the deck) of the top of the daggerboard trunk where it attaches to the under side of the deck?
A p/o did a poor repair to that area in an effort to repair the mast step area of the deck. I’d like to know what the joint is suppose to look like, especially the forward section of the joint.
Attached is a pic of what I have. The light is coming in through a hole in an unsupported area of the deck/trunk joint directly under the mast. I don’t yet know to what extent the deck/trunk bond was altered, but knowing what It is supposed to look like may help evaluate and make a quality repair come spring.
All comments welcome and appreciated.
Thx.
Fuzz

 

[Rowlando]

Hope this helps......trying a repair in there will be like milking a mouse with boxing gloves on! Pardon the wiring....a work in progress.....

 

[FuzzyBadger]

Thank you for taking the time to get that pic. That’s exactly what I wanted to see.

 

[finding41]

I don't have any photos of my DB trunk but it looks like the 2nd one above.
One thing with my deck joint is that there is a deck flange that slips into the DB trunk hole from the top. It goes down about 5/8 to 3/4" . I know this because I took a chunk out of the lip once when pulling the DB up.
I guess what I'm getting at is that you need to have the deck drain int the DB trunk and not into the cabin. If your concerned with the strength get in there with some more fiberglass. (Remember that preparation is 2/3 of the job... Sand well and clean with acetone.)
Marty

 

[FuzzyBadger]

I don't have any photos of my DB trunk but it looks like the 2nd one above.
One thing with my deck joint is that there is a deck flange that slips into the DB trunk hole from the top. It goes down about 5/8 to 3/4" . I know this because I took a chunk out of the lip once when pulling the DB up.
I guess what I'm getting at is that you need to have the deck drain int the DB trunk and not into the cabin. If your concerned with the strength get in there with some more fiberglass. (Remember that preparation is 2/3 of the job... Sand well and clean with acetone.)
Marty

Thx Marty. I have already made most of the repair using West Systems 105 resin, 205 catalyst, 406 thickener and 3 layers of 1708 fiberglass. After thorough preparation, there was a quarter size hole in the top, leading edge of the daggerboard and a 1/8” gap between the underside of the deck and the top of the daggerboard. Both were filled with thickened (peanut butter consistency) resin and a fillet was formed around the entire joint. Once tacky, the first of 3 layers of 1708 was wet out, folded to fit the right angle of the joint and rolled to adhere and remove air bubbles. Subsequent layers of 1708 were applied in the same way.
Inside the trunk, I placed a stiff but flexible piece of plastic, covered with packing tape as a form to match the inside contour of the leading top edge of the trunk where the hole was. That worked perfectly to support the resin that filled the hole.
I’m in NY, so I ran out of warm weather and was unable to finish the top side of the repair around the trunk. I plan on applying one or two layers of fiberglass over the hole repair, from inside the trunk and perhaps a bit more from underneath. After a little gell coat I hope it will be a structurally sound repair.

 

[finding41]

That repair looks great!

 

[FuzzyBadger]

That repair looks great!

Thank you!