I am having significant corrosion issues with my 2004 Hunter 33 keel (see the attached link). I am curious if any other H33 owners are experiencing this problem. If you have experienced it have you been able to cure it? For the past two years I have sanded down to bare metal the corroded spots, epoxied and fared, and primed and painted. The problem comes back every year worse and worse. My dealer thinks this might be a problem with impurities in the lead. Comments?
Corrosion on my Keel
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I don't think so
I think the best guess is galvanic action. If it was me I would consider attaching a zinc to the keel on both sides. I would also hang a zinc overboard the is attached to a keel bolt and or the strut bolts. I think someone near your boat has a real problem and they are creating a bigger problem. Look around for an older boat that isn't very well kept up. Paul
I think the best guess is galvanic action. If it was me I would consider attaching a zinc to the keel on both sides. I would also hang a zinc overboard the is attached to a keel bolt and or the strut bolts. I think someone near your boat has a real problem and they are creating a bigger problem. Look around for an older boat that isn't very well kept up. Paul
Not Really Surprised
Have you been in contact with Hunter and what have they had to say? You should find out from them who actually manufactured your keel. I think they use or have used a couple of keel suppliers. One is here in Canada - a Company called Mars Keels. The Mars guys are very approachable. The other Company is somewhere in the Southern States. If Hunter does not return your calls (good luck there) talk to the keel manufacturers directly, if you have not done so already. Also, where does the keel fit into the boat's warranty? I also own a 2004 H33, but although my boat is currently cradled I have not seen it for a couple of months. Unfortunately I do not have my warranty docs with me either. In any case these guys will do whatever they can to wiggle out of any responsibility. Strange to hear a lead keel is corroding at all - or that aggressively. Could it be stray electrical activity around your dock? Just a wild guess.
Have you been in contact with Hunter and what have they had to say? You should find out from them who actually manufactured your keel. I think they use or have used a couple of keel suppliers. One is here in Canada - a Company called Mars Keels. The Mars guys are very approachable. The other Company is somewhere in the Southern States. If Hunter does not return your calls (good luck there) talk to the keel manufacturers directly, if you have not done so already. Also, where does the keel fit into the boat's warranty? I also own a 2004 H33, but although my boat is currently cradled I have not seen it for a couple of months. Unfortunately I do not have my warranty docs with me either. In any case these guys will do whatever they can to wiggle out of any responsibility. Strange to hear a lead keel is corroding at all - or that aggressively. Could it be stray electrical activity around your dock? Just a wild guess.
Galvanic action
I am on a mooring. The few days a year I am in a slip, less than five, I use an extra zinc overboard tied to the engines ground which is tied to the keel bolts. This is in addition to the normal fist size zincs on my shaft. At the end of the season I usually have over half of my shaft zincs remaining. There are plenty of older boats around me that may have electrical problems, after all I have to share the mooring field with stink-boaters
. In general we have 60-75 feet from boat to boat in the mooring field. My dealer contacted Hunter who punted them back to the keel manufacturer. It has been several weeks with no news. I am begining to think this is my problem to deal with so I was curious if I am alone or is this common on the 33's. Andy
I am on a mooring. The few days a year I am in a slip, less than five, I use an extra zinc overboard tied to the engines ground which is tied to the keel bolts. This is in addition to the normal fist size zincs on my shaft. At the end of the season I usually have over half of my shaft zincs remaining. There are plenty of older boats around me that may have electrical problems, after all I have to share the mooring field with stink-boaters
. In general we have 60-75 feet from boat to boat in the mooring field. My dealer contacted Hunter who punted them back to the keel manufacturer. It has been several weeks with no news. I am begining to think this is my problem to deal with so I was curious if I am alone or is this common on the 33's. AndyKeel Problem
Had a similar problem with our 2003 H356. Hunter determined that they had a series of keels that had impurities in the lead. Hunter paid to have the entire keel stripped of fiberglass sanded down coated and fiberglassed. Has been fine ever since. Work was done within the warranty period.
Had a similar problem with our 2003 H356. Hunter determined that they had a series of keels that had impurities in the lead. Hunter paid to have the entire keel stripped of fiberglass sanded down coated and fiberglassed. Has been fine ever since. Work was done within the warranty period.
Look at the rudder as well
Same problem last week on my H33 2004, it was second haulout. I had it sanded back to and re-epoxied. Will now take it up with the Dealer. Also the rudder was full of water, there was a bad seal between the stainless steel stock and the fibreglass about a couple of gallons of water came out. Final major problem was the mixing elbow on the exhaust had become corroded and full of carbon after only 240 hours and Yanmar dealer replaced it labour and parts $550.
Same problem last week on my H33 2004, it was second haulout. I had it sanded back to and re-epoxied. Will now take it up with the Dealer. Also the rudder was full of water, there was a bad seal between the stainless steel stock and the fibreglass about a couple of gallons of water came out. Final major problem was the mixing elbow on the exhaust had become corroded and full of carbon after only 240 hours and Yanmar dealer replaced it labour and parts $550.
Question for Nick
Mixing elbow checked last year - it was fine. Rudder - how do you check it? I'd rather not drill exploratory holes. Keel - How much did it cost to have is sanded and re-epoxied? I was going to do what I do every year, sand affected areas, re-epoxy, and paint the next few weekends but the reality is I have done this two years now and every year it comes back worse. Andy
Mixing elbow checked last year - it was fine. Rudder - how do you check it? I'd rather not drill exploratory holes. Keel - How much did it cost to have is sanded and re-epoxied? I was going to do what I do every year, sand affected areas, re-epoxy, and paint the next few weekends but the reality is I have done this two years now and every year it comes back worse. Andy
One more important question for Nick
Nick, I just got off of the phone with the service tech at my yard. They are ready and willing to do the work on my keel but they had a question. What type of epoxy did you use when you re-epoxied your keel?
Nick, I just got off of the phone with the service tech at my yard. They are ready and willing to do the work on my keel but they had a question. What type of epoxy did you use when you re-epoxied your keel?
Answers for Andy
Re the epoxy - I had it done professionally and have just asked the yard what they put on. Answer "Sanded back to the lead then Newport 40 primer applied then Formaldehyde and micro balloon epoxy followed by another coat of Newport 40 and then International micro 60 antifoul" Trust this makes sense in US of A. Their view was that the problem was that the lead had not been properly primed initially. Re the rudder. Good question! The reason I found out that it was full of water was because the bearing was worn so the yard pulled the rudder out and when they lay it out on the trestles they noticed the water seeping out. They then drilled a hole at the base and it poured out. If I were you I would risk drilling a small hole as it is easy to fix. Nick
Re the epoxy - I had it done professionally and have just asked the yard what they put on. Answer "Sanded back to the lead then Newport 40 primer applied then Formaldehyde and micro balloon epoxy followed by another coat of Newport 40 and then International micro 60 antifoul" Trust this makes sense in US of A. Their view was that the problem was that the lead had not been properly primed initially. Re the rudder. Good question! The reason I found out that it was full of water was because the bearing was worn so the yard pulled the rudder out and when they lay it out on the trestles they noticed the water seeping out. They then drilled a hole at the base and it poured out. If I were you I would risk drilling a small hole as it is easy to fix. Nick
Thanks
Thank you for finding out. I'll pass the epoxy info along to my service guys. This is a bigger job than I have time to take on for sure. What you said about drilling a small exploratory hole is what my yard recommended. If I believe I have water then a small hole or two is an easy fix. I will try tapping it first to see if I can 'hear' a change in sound indicating water. At this time I have no reason to believe I have water in there though.
Thank you for finding out. I'll pass the epoxy info along to my service guys. This is a bigger job than I have time to take on for sure. What you said about drilling a small exploratory hole is what my yard recommended. If I believe I have water then a small hole or two is an easy fix. I will try tapping it first to see if I can 'hear' a change in sound indicating water. At this time I have no reason to believe I have water in there though.
Basic Chemistry
Are you sure the keel is lead? Antifouling paint has a copper copolymer and the reaction of the copper copolymer and other metals will have a galvanic reaction. I grinded my keel down last summer and used an epoxy paint as a primer. So far, I have had good results. When the boat was pulled out of the water for the winter, the keel looked great. Six coats of Interprotect 2000 was my primer of choice and then two coats of VC 17. I think the different metals are the problem and any electrical activity at the dock.
Are you sure the keel is lead? Antifouling paint has a copper copolymer and the reaction of the copper copolymer and other metals will have a galvanic reaction. I grinded my keel down last summer and used an epoxy paint as a primer. So far, I have had good results. When the boat was pulled out of the water for the winter, the keel looked great. Six coats of Interprotect 2000 was my primer of choice and then two coats of VC 17. I think the different metals are the problem and any electrical activity at the dock.
110% sure
I am 110% sure it is antimony and lead. A quote from the specs for my boat: Keel, Antimonious Lead w/Stainless Bolts, Shoal Draft http://www.huntermarine.com/Models/33/33Equip.html Also, as I mentioned, I am rarely at a dock and when I am I use extra zincs. I am not discounting the possibility that this is the cause, I just think that I take extra precautions to make sure it is not. Maybe I don't do enough... Either way I am in the process of having the keel blasted, sealed, and painted again. I am a software engineer. A long time ago I learned that sometimes you have to settle for just finding the solution. The cause may be too elusive to be worth finding.
I am 110% sure it is antimony and lead. A quote from the specs for my boat: Keel, Antimonious Lead w/Stainless Bolts, Shoal Draft http://www.huntermarine.com/Models/33/33Equip.html Also, as I mentioned, I am rarely at a dock and when I am I use extra zincs. I am not discounting the possibility that this is the cause, I just think that I take extra precautions to make sure it is not. Maybe I don't do enough... Either way I am in the process of having the keel blasted, sealed, and painted again. I am a software engineer. A long time ago I learned that sometimes you have to settle for just finding the solution. The cause may be too elusive to be worth finding.
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