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Clogged Sanitation Hose

Dec 25, 2000
5,003
Hunter Passage 42 Shelter Bay, WA
As a follow-up, been using the aft head with great success. One bonus that I did not realize at the time, but I have a larger or higher than before loop in the new hose just before it connects to the joker valve. Before, when flushed, no water was left in the bowl for the next use. Even when prepping the toilet for use, the old lower loop hose would not leave water in the bowl for use. Now, the bowl has a nice quantity of water remaining. Apparently the higher loop prevents flush water from completely emptying the bowl. Joker valve is supposed to help there, but they stopped making them to fit our model toilet many years ago. They do make a conversion kit that has a new joker valve for big bucks, but will wait until this one stops working. Until then, sail on.
 
Dec 2, 1997
8,086
- - LIttle Rock
An easy problem to solve: just flush long enough in the DRY mode to push the water over the top of the loop. If your toilet's joker valve is so old and worn out that your toilet can't do that (any toilet that's working anywhere near factory spec can lift bowl contents at least 4' as long as the joker valve is in good shape), it may be time for a new toilet, 'cuz if you can find a joker valve for it, you won't be able to find any other parts it will need either.
A high loop has other advantages: you only have to flush long enough to move bowl contents over the top of it...gravity will get it the rest of the way. This also increases the number of flushes your tank can hold by at least 50%.
--Peggie
 
Oct 2, 2008
3,550
Pearson/ 530 Strafford, NH
Joker valve is supposed to help there, but they stopped making them to fit our model toilet many years ago. They do make a conversion kit that has a new joker valve for big bucks, but will wait until this one stops working. Until then, sail on.
What kinda joker is that? I thought most were generic.
 
Dec 25, 2000
5,003
Hunter Passage 42 Shelter Bay, WA
A high loop has other advantages: you only have to flush long enough to move bowl contents over the top of it...gravity will get it the rest of the way.
High loop at the toilet really works well. Gravity from there to the tank will not flow through. The hose reaches a low point at the galley (location of clog in old hose and lower than toilet) before rising up maybe twelve inches over an athwartship stringer and into the tank. While cruising I make it a practice to wet-flush for five seconds to make sure all the solid waste reaches the tank. And as I mentioned in an earlier post I always dry flush at least two gallons of fresh water through the system to clean out any remaining waste, then finish up with a complete pump out.
 
Dec 25, 2000
5,003
Hunter Passage 42 Shelter Bay, WA
I know a lobsterman in Maine that could plug that with one sitting.
Unless this guy as concrete turds :eek:, the macerator/pump on our toilet will chew up just about anything, except sanitary napkins and wet wipes, that is.
 
Dec 2, 1997
8,086
- - LIttle Rock
Any 1" joker valve should fit 'em. However, unlike manual toilets, the joker valve has nothing to do with the performance of any macerating electric toilet. But no toilet, manual or electric has a working life of anywhere near 28 years. Yours may still be "working," but nowhere near factory spec. It really is time for new toilets, Terry. Jabsco offers replacement pump/motor assemblies. Not great, but a whole lot better than what you have now.
--Peggie
 
Dec 25, 2000
5,003
Hunter Passage 42 Shelter Bay, WA
But no toilet, manual or electric has a working life of anywhere near 28 years. Yours may still be "working," but nowhere near factory spec.
Perhaps, Peggie, but as long as they flush bowl contents to the tank, I'm okay. I really appreciate your expertise and will certainly add that to my to-do list.

As an after thought, do you see any problem if I were to insert a one inch diameter joker valve into the one inch ID discharge hose with some adhesive? Doubt that it will make a difference, but just a thought.
 
Dec 2, 1997
8,086
- - LIttle Rock
That's kinda like saying "as long as the 8 cylinder engine in my car can still run on 2 cylinders, I'll continue to drive it."
, do you see any problem if I were to insert a one inch diameter joker valve into the one inch ID discharge hose with some adhesive?
Yes...the flange on a joker valve is the gasket that seals the discharge to the pump. "Gluing" one into the discharge hose won't seal the connection.
All Jabsco toilets have always had a 1" discharge, so I wonder if the real problem is, a PO replaced the discharge fitting with the wrong one. Try replacing it with the right one.
--Peggie
 
Dec 25, 2000
5,003
Hunter Passage 42 Shelter Bay, WA
so I wonder if the real problem is,
The plastic fitting on the toilet base includes the barb for the discharge hose inside of which contains the small joker valve. Original design, it appears to me. Doubt the PO could have installed the wrong fitting. I'll take a picture of it the next time to the boat.
 
Dec 25, 2000
5,003
Hunter Passage 42 Shelter Bay, WA
Need to remove the fitting that contains the joker valve and post a picture here. Jabsco says they no longer make our version and recommends a new bottom assembly, which includes the motor. Our one cylinder model still doing the job.
 
Dec 2, 1997
8,086
- - LIttle Rock
...as long as they flush bowl contents to the tank, I'm okay.
Unless your tank is very close to the toilet (<5') and the discharge line doesn't run uphill, are you 100% certain that each flush is getting all the way to the tank?

As for joker valve size...For decades Jabsco was the only toilet mfr to use a 1" discharge, but a few years ago they began using discharge fittings that can accept 1" or 1.5"---you just have to slide a 1.5" hose further up the fitting. (Because so many Raritan Marine Elegance buyers are upgrading from Jabsco toilets that have 1" discharge fittings, Raritan also provides an "either/or" discharge fitting for it -for all their electric toilets--too.

As for leaking discharge fittings...the flange on the joke valve is also the rubber gasket that seals the connection to the pump housing. At least 90% of leaks at that connection a caused by two things: 1. over-tightening the screws that hold it onto the pump. That puts a "pucker" in the gasket around the screws, which will cause the connection to leak. The typical reaction is to tighten the screws even more, causing the connection to leak even more. So when replacing a joker valve, tighten the screws just barely snug...flush to check for a leak....if leaking, tighten the screws just a quarter turn more...flush again...repeat till it stops leaking. If a fitting that's been over-tightened is left in place for very long, the puckers can become permanent, requiring another new joker valve.
2. A discharge hose that pulls to one side or up, causing the other side of the fitting to lift away from the pump housing. The cure: replace the discharge fitting with one that provides a straight route from the toilet to the tank or thru-hull.

--Peggie
 
Dec 25, 2000
5,003
Hunter Passage 42 Shelter Bay, WA
Thanks for your input, Peggie. No leaking fittings here. Just working through the idea that just maybe there is a joker valve out there that will fit. Likely not and no big deal at this point. Yes, I’m pretty sure that the bowl contents reach the tank considering the time I allow the toilet to flush, which is five seconds. Even then, at the end of the cruise I flush two gallons of fresh water through the system just to make sure the discharge hose is clear. I do need to follow up with a vinegar flush to help keep any calcium build up at bay.

Each time I return from a cruise and pump out, I fill the tank with fresh water, pump that out, then while the pump out continues to work I squirt city water through the tank vent scupper until the pump out water runs clear. That tends to agitate any remaining stuff that gets sucked out. A finishing touch includes a flush of Odorlos brew to keep things smelling nice.

Been doing this for years and so far a smooth running head operation, due much in part to what I’ve learned from your expertise as a Head Mistress. Thank you.
 
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Dec 25, 2000
5,003
Hunter Passage 42 Shelter Bay, WA
It's been awhile since I started this thread, so thought I would provide an update to our head operations. Just got back from a short cruise with our eight year old grandson who occupied the forward cabin while underway. Other than one flushing incident, which turned out to be way too much TP, all systems worked great. Forward head bowl contents would not discharge to the tank, but after several long flush cycles with the through hull valve closed, the contents finally emptied. It just took awhile for the macerator to grind up all that TP and push it through that tiny joker valve opening.

Forward head seldom gets much use, but for a scary moment I thought it was time for a new discharge hose. Nope, at least not yet. Once cleared the system performed as designed. Ditto the aft head. Must post a picture of that tiny proprietary joker valve that Jabsco used way back when. These have been very reliable toilets, but someday will need to replace with newer and better. Meanwhile, other projects have front seat priority; crazed port lights for one.