I have never changed the oil on my 310, but it is about time. In the Universal manual they mentioned an oil drain line that I found, but it leaves me wondering how people drain the engine. The end of the hose appears to be above the oil pan (if you are going to drain to a container on the deck). Is there an external pump and fitting that people have used and can recommend? Also the manual says every 100 hours - is that the interval people use? Thanks Ray
Changing the Oil
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Use an oil extractor pump
I use a pump to extract the oil from the pan. Most extractors come with a variety of hoses to slip down the dipstick tube and suck out the oil, but that is not what I use. I made an adapter to screw on the end of the engine's oil drain line and connects to my extractor pump. If I remember correct it is a 1/4 npt male pipe fitting at the end of the drain line. So you would have to buy a female pipe fitting and attach it someway to the extractor hose. I used to use a very cheap electric extractor pump, which I DON'T recomend. I just bought a new Oil Boy extractor to use this year. I haven't tried it yet, but I'm excited to use it. This is also what you need to extract the oil from the transmission. The link below is to the Oil Boy that I bought. I only put about 40 hrs. on my engine each year, and I change my oil at winterization. So I never make it to the 100 hr. interval. I've read though, that some people do change their's at 50 hrs rather than the recomended 100 hrs.
I use a pump to extract the oil from the pan. Most extractors come with a variety of hoses to slip down the dipstick tube and suck out the oil, but that is not what I use. I made an adapter to screw on the end of the engine's oil drain line and connects to my extractor pump. If I remember correct it is a 1/4 npt male pipe fitting at the end of the drain line. So you would have to buy a female pipe fitting and attach it someway to the extractor hose. I used to use a very cheap electric extractor pump, which I DON'T recomend. I just bought a new Oil Boy extractor to use this year. I haven't tried it yet, but I'm excited to use it. This is also what you need to extract the oil from the transmission. The link below is to the Oil Boy that I bought. I only put about 40 hrs. on my engine each year, and I change my oil at winterization. So I never make it to the 100 hr. interval. I've read though, that some people do change their's at 50 hrs rather than the recomended 100 hrs.
Just get the oil warmed up first and you can
suck it out in a few minutes, if it's cold it's like sucking molasses thru a straw and takes forever. I change every 100 hrs. but this is about every 7 months and the boat is run year round. Probably good idea to change for winterization, but I'd probably change in the spring so the oil you are running for the season hasn't sat all winter absorbing moisture.
suck it out in a few minutes, if it's cold it's like sucking molasses thru a straw and takes forever. I change every 100 hrs. but this is about every 7 months and the boat is run year round. Probably good idea to change for winterization, but I'd probably change in the spring so the oil you are running for the season hasn't sat all winter absorbing moisture.
Change oil before winterizing
Hello Ray, I change my oil before winterizing the boat. I believe I have read somewhere that the oil picks up contaminants over the 50 - 100 hours of use that are corrosive to the engine. My buddy, a ship's engineer, told me the same thing. I have never considered that the oil would pick up condensation but that seems logical also. Regards, Chris
Hello Ray, I change my oil before winterizing the boat. I believe I have read somewhere that the oil picks up contaminants over the 50 - 100 hours of use that are corrosive to the engine. My buddy, a ship's engineer, told me the same thing. I have never considered that the oil would pick up condensation but that seems logical also. Regards, Chris
Oil Changes
If that picture shows your oil change hose, it appears that there may be an adapter on the end of it already. I've changed ours every which way from Sunday, from disconnecting the hose at the drain pan, to sucking out the dipstick to using a hand pump on the end of the hose. I finally worked up a solution: put a fitting on the end of the hose that threads into the end of the hose fitting, and another one that matches at the end of the hand pump and suck the oil out of the oil change hose. There are many ways to do it, but ya gotta do it.
If that picture shows your oil change hose, it appears that there may be an adapter on the end of it already. I've changed ours every which way from Sunday, from disconnecting the hose at the drain pan, to sucking out the dipstick to using a hand pump on the end of the hose. I finally worked up a solution: put a fitting on the end of the hose that threads into the end of the hose fitting, and another one that matches at the end of the hand pump and suck the oil out of the oil change hose. There are many ways to do it, but ya gotta do it.
ping
Hey Stu Thought does this hose allow you to suck out all the oil from the bottom of oil pan....measure amount taken out. OR Put a tube in a tube or some thing and measure distance to bottom of pan or take a sounding test. Boy is this exciting. paulj
Hey Stu Thought does this hose allow you to suck out all the oil from the bottom of oil pan....measure amount taken out. OR Put a tube in a tube or some thing and measure distance to bottom of pan or take a sounding test. Boy is this exciting. paulj
It gets most, but not all of it
because the pan is slightly tilted. You don't have to measure the amount you take out. Put a few quarts in first, then use the dipstick to measure so you don't overfill. Having a new filter and "mostly" new oil has worked for decades. I know of no one who can get it ALL out. Obviously, the more the better.
because the pan is slightly tilted. You don't have to measure the amount you take out. Put a few quarts in first, then use the dipstick to measure so you don't overfill. Having a new filter and "mostly" new oil has worked for decades. I know of no one who can get it ALL out. Obviously, the more the better.
Oil Boy
I use the oil Boy pump also. The drain hose on my engine came originaly equiped with a threaded fitting that has a screw cap on it when not in use, just as pictured. Similiar to what others have done, I bought a threaded/barbed brass fitting, in the outboard fuel tank section of the local marine store. It pushes into the end of the Oil Boy hose so the hose screws directly to the engines drain hose for oil changes. It makes an air tight connection to the engine drain hose, so when you start sucking air with the pump, you know that you have gotten pretty much all of the oil that will drain down out of the oil pan.
I use the oil Boy pump also. The drain hose on my engine came originaly equiped with a threaded fitting that has a screw cap on it when not in use, just as pictured. Similiar to what others have done, I bought a threaded/barbed brass fitting, in the outboard fuel tank section of the local marine store. It pushes into the end of the Oil Boy hose so the hose screws directly to the engines drain hose for oil changes. It makes an air tight connection to the engine drain hose, so when you start sucking air with the pump, you know that you have gotten pretty much all of the oil that will drain down out of the oil pan.
Thanks
Thanks. Didn't think about an adapter for the host, but that sounds like the way to go. I prefer the every 50 hours scenario; to be honest oil is not all that expensive and a little prevention is always worth it.
Thanks. Didn't think about an adapter for the host, but that sounds like the way to go. I prefer the every 50 hours scenario; to be honest oil is not all that expensive and a little prevention is always worth it.
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