Will the original jib work with the CDI? I'm a little confused by how to convert the hank on to a furler type. I read somewhere that somebody just removed the metal rings and it worked fine. Can't seem to find where I read that though.
CDI FF2 with stock sail
- Thread starter kenr74
- Start date
You'll certainly need a specific luff tape, I think CDI specs a #6?
Do you have a manual for the CDI?
I removed the rings. I chamferred the entry groove on the foil and srayed the luff with food grade dry silicone. Works fine. A little tight but fine for now.
I did read about the #6 tape in the manual. Thought I also read where somebody just removed their hank on shackles and that was all that was needed.
Thanks Tsatzsue. I think that is what I had read. Couldn't remember if that was 26S specific or not though.
Not all sails are built exactly the same. Details differ from one loft Or one year to the next. The luff can be constructed in a coup,e of different ways, some of which migh work with a furler, and some which might not.
The correct way to construct a furling sail is with a purpose built luff tape sewn onto it. A #6 luff tape is approx 5.4 to 5.7 mm in diameter. 5 mm is too small (there’s a small chance it might pull out in certain circumstances) and 6 mm is too big (too much friction, which will make it very hard to hoist).
Good luff tape is made with compact, hard rope covered by 6 or 8 oz Dacron. The rope is sewed directly to the Dacron before being folded over and stitched.
The luff on a hank on sail is constructed differently. It might work with a furler or not.
One option is to sew a new #6 luff tape o to the old sail.
Don’t leave the furled sail on the furler out in the sun. UV exposure will ruin it in a couple of months, if you plan to store it on the furler outdoors, it should have a sun cover.
By the time you convert the luff to luff tape and add a uv cover, it’s usually more cost effective to just buy a new one and sell the old one on eBay.
Judy B
Retired sailmaker
The correct way to construct a furling sail is with a purpose built luff tape sewn onto it. A #6 luff tape is approx 5.4 to 5.7 mm in diameter. 5 mm is too small (there’s a small chance it might pull out in certain circumstances) and 6 mm is too big (too much friction, which will make it very hard to hoist).
Good luff tape is made with compact, hard rope covered by 6 or 8 oz Dacron. The rope is sewed directly to the Dacron before being folded over and stitched.
The luff on a hank on sail is constructed differently. It might work with a furler or not.
One option is to sew a new #6 luff tape o to the old sail.
Don’t leave the furled sail on the furler out in the sun. UV exposure will ruin it in a couple of months, if you plan to store it on the furler outdoors, it should have a sun cover.
By the time you convert the luff to luff tape and add a uv cover, it’s usually more cost effective to just buy a new one and sell the old one on eBay.
Judy B
Retired sailmaker
Judy it right on. Add the luff tape. It needs UV protection sewn on anyway so get it done completely/correctly.
Do you not have the furler installed yet? You also have to figure in the cost to modify your forestay. It needs to be shortened and a toggle added. My old jenny had to be trimmed to clear the drum
No, nothing yet. Looks like $1000+ dollars for everything I would need. I like the idea but not sure I want to spend that much.
Everyone has to decide on their own if it is worth it to them. The admiral decided for me!
This has been discussed a couple of times in the years gone past-----
https://forums.sailboatowners.com/index.php?threads/cdi-ff2-with-stock-sail.197872/
https://forums.sailboatowners.com/index.php?threads/cdi-ff2-with-stock-sail.197872/
Decided to try my luck with a DIY version. $46.42, two trips to Lowes, and some direction from Gregg9020.
Works great so far in my limited driveway sailing. I haven't figured out any UV protection yet but it lives in my shop so probably won't bother unless I need to keep it outside for some reason.
Works great so far in my limited driveway sailing. I haven't figured out any UV protection yet but it lives in my shop so probably won't bother unless I need to keep it outside for some reason.
Attachments
You’ve raised the clew of the sail 24” or more (I’m estimating 24” or more because the tack is above the bow pulpit now) and that will change the vertical angle of the jib sheet. As the clew goes up, you need to move the jibsheet block aft. With a 24” change, you’ll need to move the jib sheet block aft quite a lot.
If the block isn’t moved aft to compensate for the higher clew, the foot will be too tight and the leech will be too loose. The top of the sail will be twisted open, and produce less power than optimal.
Judy B
Retired Sailmaker
If the block isn’t moved aft to compensate for the higher clew, the foot will be too tight and the leech will be too loose. The top of the sail will be twisted open, and produce less power than optimal.
Judy B
Retired Sailmaker
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Thank you. Definitely going to be trial and error. I'm a lake sailor and in no hurry so I'm mainly focused on ease of use. I have the sail pulled way up in the pictures but it is about 24" higher.
I'm a little confused about the "need to move the jib sheet block aft". Does that mean the attachment on the deck? So I want to move the attachment back to adjust for the steep angle? Is there a proper angle to be at? The PO had fairleads all over so I'm not sure it was correct to start with.
I'm a little confused about the "need to move the jib sheet block aft". Does that mean the attachment on the deck? So I want to move the attachment back to adjust for the steep angle? Is there a proper angle to be at? The PO had fairleads all over so I'm not sure it was correct to start with.
The Jib Sheet "block" could be either a fairlead or a block. Its the hardware on deck that leads the jib sheet attached to the clew of the sail down to the deck, and leads it aft.
The best method of figuring out approximately the right location is to look (or draw) a the side view of the boat with the sail on ( or drawn), and then draw some "imaginary lines" from a point on the luff then through the clew, and down to the deck.
This is about a 70 or 80% jib, based on measurements I took off the picture. It looks shorter on the luff than the typical 80% small jib for the M26S. Selecting the right point requires a bit of knowlege of sail design.... and so, for this tall skinny sail (with an aspect ratio of at least 3.5 from the picture,I'd pick a point about 55% of the way up the luff, starting at the clew.
Just by luck the jib sheet fairlead/block appears to be in approximately the correct location, which is fortuitous (Based on the picture. Pls keep in mind that there's some distortion in the picture compared to a square-on picture and that the sail isn't pulled flat.)
One thing to double check is this: Does the leech hit the lower side shroud when you sheet the sail in tightly?
Makes sense. Thank you. There are a few bullseye fairleads which I've been using to route the jib sheet. The line you have drawn to the deck is right between the front and back fairlead.
The tag on the sail bag says luff 23.5', leech 19.1', and foot 10'. I did measure the luff right at 23.5' so I'm assuming the other measurements are correct. It came with the boat so I didn't even question if it was the right size. I've only had it out a few times so I'm still trying to figure out what action leads to the reaction I want at this point.
The tag on the sail bag says luff 23.5', leech 19.1', and foot 10'. I did measure the luff right at 23.5' so I'm assuming the other measurements are correct. It came with the boat so I didn't even question if it was the right size. I've only had it out a few times so I'm still trying to figure out what action leads to the reaction I want at this point.