Calling on all you creative types

Jun 8, 2004
265
Hunter 49 60803 Lake Erie
ok so here is the deal

I have a 49 which is 49'11" overall with a 50 amp power connection in the back therefore it takes 2 50 amp power cords to reach the dock power supply in the front of my slip. Each cords weighs about 130 pounds (ok that may be an exaggeration I've never actually weighed them but as I age I'm getting weaker and they are getting heavier) any way they are heavy. Dragging one or both along as we cruise around can be a real chore.

Here's the part where I need your creativity

Any great ideas on how to make the handling and transportation of these monster cords easier would be appreciated. For example the guy on the 50 foot Sea Ray next to me has a really cool giant electric remotely controlled spool built in the transom of his boat. He just unplugs pushes a button and waaa laa the cords rolls up onto the spool and disappears into the transom. Now I don't know for sure but that kind of set up sounds out of my price range. I was thinking maybe a garden hose reel mounted on the stern rail but I'm not sure the flimsy plastic could handle the weight. Also, I am not sure there is room for it; do to all the other crap hanging from the rail (outboard, life sling, horse shoe etc. you get the picture). I do have the factory davits if any one can think of a way to use them in the solution. I've thought of running the cord up the side to the bow and storing it up there thus lifting less weight /bulk but I hate the idea of that giant cord either hanging from the life lines or lying on the deck acting as one more dirt catcher or as a deck hazard going forward.

So creative types solve this for me and I will buy you a beer next time we cruise into the same port.
 
Oct 29, 2016
1,915
Hunter 41 DS Port Huron
After a brief search I have found this more suited for an RV but may be adaptable.
http://www.adventurerv.net/trc-cs12dsr-cord-storage-reel-p-30881.html?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIvbCUj6fZ3gIVFQOGCh0DKAh7EAQYASABEgLaRfD_BwE&sc_intid=http://www.adventurerv.net30881&scid=scplphttp://www.adventurerv.net30881&adpos=1o1&utm_medium=organic&utm_source=Froogle&utm_campaign=partsfeed_organic
Do you have (2) x 50 circuits? Is there a tie bar on the 120 V distribution panel, If like our 41 there is double 30 amp circuits (yours are 50 I am guessing) and both circuits can be fed from a single plug, of course with reduced number of loads you can run such as only running one of your (3) AC units. They do have 50A to 30A adapters which would allow you to power your boat on either parallel or single feed 30A cable again with reduced number of loads you could run.
The ultimate would be a cord retainer system like you witnessed on that Searay, I know the cords always, and I mean always seem to get all tangled up, doesn't matter how neatly they were coiled when stowed.
 
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Jan 22, 2008
296
Islander Freeport, 41 Ketch Longmont, CO
So, the simplest option as mentioned by Sailgunner is to back into your slip and then you only need 1 cord. Or as mentioned by justsomeguy, run a new primary power line internally on the boat to amidship or somewhere forward. Again, this will require some work but is a clean and neat answer.

Another option is to check your power consumption and change to a 30 amp service if possible. You'll need to account for ALL power usage and forego things like AC or electric heaters however, you could then use a smaller lighter power cord.

Just some ideas.
 
Sep 25, 2008
7,075
Alden 50 Sarasota, Florida
Somewhat unrelated to your question but - why do you need a 50 amp rated cable?

I might understand if you lived someplace hot and used multiple A/C systems aboard but...


More to your question, why remove and store 2 heavy cables every time you leave the dock? Wouldn't it be simpler to just leave them fixed to the dock awaiting your return? And bring a single cable with you for use in transient marinas.
 

Kermit

.
Jul 31, 2010
5,657
AquaCat 12.5 17342 Wateree Lake, SC
Secondary AC dock power connection forward?
Or amidship?
I’m with @justsomeguy on this one. Backing in is a good idea as long as that is always an option wherever you go. The forward connection will double you options and cut your cord-length requirement in half.
 
Jan 22, 2008
8,050
Beneteau 323 Annapolis MD
Secondary AC dock power connection forward?
Or amidship?
Not that crazy of an idea. My B323 is bow in her home slip. I bought the Smart Plug inlet, and have been thinking of putting it in the anchor locker where a 10-foot cord would work for shore power. It would save the 30-foot cord from getting that scuzzy junk on it that just won't clean off too easily- I already have one of those. I'm on the lookout for the interior 30-amp breaker.
 
Jun 1, 2009
1,735
Hunter 49 toronto
It is not a good idea to put in a secondary power inlet on the bow.
It makes the wiring very complicated on a boat where there is shore power and a generator.
I know the 49 wiring very well, and it wouldn’t be a small job.
I gather it’s the weight of the 50 amp cord which is causing you an issue
An alternative is to use 30 amp cords, and a reverse Y plugged into the stern 50 A inlet.
It’s more cords, but lighter.
The power reel system is made by glendenning. The unit is about $1500, and takes up quite a bit of room in the stern locker. Not worth it.
 
Jun 11, 2011
1,243
Hunter 41 Lewes
Not using a 50 can cause problems as it's a 220 cord and the 30s are 110. If you don't plug the 30s into two different phases of power you will not be able to run 220V items that may exist on the boat. Just a situation to watch for.
 

Kermit

.
Jul 31, 2010
5,657
AquaCat 12.5 17342 Wateree Lake, SC
Maybe this is a great time to contact Al Fooks, the new honcho of SBO about their tech support for Hunter sailboats. We’ve seen lots of “perfect” answers and it seems that every last one has been argued against. I bet it would be money well spent.
 
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RoyS

.
Jun 3, 2012
1,739
Hunter 33 Steamboat Wharf, Hull, MA
You will need a transfer select switch if you install a second inlet forward. The switch would open the connection to the unused inlet while closing the other. There are some rotary models available but some research will be required. These are fairly robust and expensive.
 
May 24, 2004
7,129
CC 30 South Florida
The sensible and obvious answer to your problem is to back the boat in to the slip. All it takes is practice. If your current slip is too shallow at the head to accommodate the boat's rudder, then find another slip. Leaving behind a cable set up at the home dock is strongly recommended; all you really have to do when you come in is to pick up a few feet at the end and connect to the boat and turn On the pedestal switch. This requires having a duplicate travel cable which is maintained aboard. Having a lighter 30A cable with adapters will expand your options. There will be times and places when you may not be able to back in so that 30A cable may serve to provide basic functions. As we age the alternatives are smaller boats or the hiring of crew.
 
Jun 8, 2004
265
Hunter 49 60803 Lake Erie
Lots of ideas
Here are a few responses
- adding a forward ac connection is hard as the boat has a isolator transformer that is in the stern so it would be a long internal cable run through hunters grid system as artboas knows it would just about be impossible in an after market situation
- backing in ... I have no problem backing in and yes then I would only need one cord at my dock but I still need to carry one of the bulky things with me when I leave so it doesn't solve my problem. (and just to clarify one cord is permanently attached to the dock and when I leave I only take one with me)
- running 30 amps as noted by uncledom can cause issues with the set up as the isloator transformer is expecting 220 not 110. it works in a half as_ way and I have to do it some times when I am some place that doesn't have a 50 amp plug ( also I have a combiner which can allow me to get 220 from 2 110 30 amp cords but as noted again by uncledom unless the two 30's are plugged in to different circuits you don't get two phases and I am here to tell you very few marines run multiple circuits down a dock.)
- Al Fooks is working on another problem for me so for now I'm relying on this august group
- do I really need 50 amps some times yes if I have guests and I am running all three a/c units, the micro wave and the coffee pot (you all get the picture I'm sure you have had guests aboard before) but no not always... however that is the way the boat was built and set up.
- I could check with Elon Musk and see if the Tesla engineers could come up with a solution buuuut this is less of an electrical engineering issue and more of an aging guy getting tired of hauling around a 38 pound 4 wire 6 gauge cord with no flexibility.

keep thinking folks I know one of you has a novel idea
 
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Jul 21, 2016
42
san juan 7.7 wabamun
To answer the hose reel question. for work I needed a 100' cord to run my trailer(residential siding) compressor, saws, ect. So I needed minimal amp loss. I bought underground cable, don't ask the size, it was years ago and I don't remember. But to the point, it's very heavy and a pain to roll up on my shoulder. So I bought a hose reel and it worked great. Handled the weight easily. Just make sure it is mounted somewhere solid.
 
Jun 8, 2004
265
Hunter 49 60803 Lake Erie
To answer the hose reel question. for work I needed a 100' cord to run my trailer(residential siding) compressor, saws, ect. So I needed minimal amp loss. I bought underground cable, don't ask the size, it was years ago and I don't remember. But to the point, it's very heavy and a pain to roll up on my shoulder. So I bought a hose reel and it worked great. Handled the weight easily. Just make sure it is mounted somewhere solid.
That's good news ..... I have been shopping around for a reel that looks heavy duty