A short while ago there was a request for a photo of a boom brake installation. I went by my 2006 Hunter 44 AC today and took a picture under the boat cover. Attached is the Photoshopped image where I have removed the cover and the lifelines, the bow pulpit and some of the rigging. Here is the key to the colorized image: The yellow line is static and is fixed to the chainplates. The red line is the control line. It goes to turning blocks at the mast step, then to to the starboard line-organizers, and the aft to the line stoppers and winch. The thin blue line dribbling over the boom brake is used to prevent the brake from dropping onto deck if the control is completely released. Note that the mainsheet (blue and white line, not colorized) runs through a circular shackle which connects to a large block that supports the brake via the red brake control line. My boat has Furlboom in-boom furling and a Boom Brake is recommended. Overall I am pleased with the Boom Brake, but I don't fully trust it and I usually pull in the mainsheet almost all the way before jibing. A problem I have with this setup is that the "lazy-side" of the static line tends to have some slop resulting in a partial free swing on a boom brake controlled jibe. Also, the whole boom brake assembly pivots at the boom, adding to the slop. The system might work better if kept my vang at a fixed angle, but I like to be able to adjust it for heading and wind conditions. This means that the boom brake control line tension also has to be adjusted in tandem. Getting the right tension for a given vang angle can be guess work. (Having found a decent setting, I usually don't mess with the friction knob on the brake.) I would appreciate comments from others who have better ways of rigging the system.
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Thanks, Larry
I am curious as to how you attached the static line to the chainplates. Specifically what fittings? Do you have a picture showing that detail? Also, is there a reason that you did not rig it using the static line as the control line with the brake simply between the boom and the vang? Perhaps that solution somehow does not work with a rigid vang?
I am curious as to how you attached the static line to the chainplates. Specifically what fittings? Do you have a picture showing that detail? Also, is there a reason that you did not rig it using the static line as the control line with the brake simply between the boom and the vang? Perhaps that solution somehow does not work with a rigid vang?
Larry, very interesting
Let me think about this, I may have some more questions. I actually have one of these Dutchman brakes that I bought when my h40.5 was new in 1998, but I have never installed it. One reason was that I could not think of a good way to attach the lines to the chainplates and another was how to rig the control line to the cockpit with the necessary amount of mechanical advantage.
Let me think about this, I may have some more questions. I actually have one of these Dutchman brakes that I bought when my h40.5 was new in 1998, but I have never installed it. One reason was that I could not think of a good way to attach the lines to the chainplates and another was how to rig the control line to the cockpit with the necessary amount of mechanical advantage.
Boom Brake Vs. Preventer
Forgive a dumb question. I use a preventer which runs from mid boom forward to a toe-rail block on each side and then aft where I secure it to a cleat. I use this anytime I'm sailing with the wind aft of the beam. What would a boom brake do for me that my preventer doesn't? Gary Wyngarden S/V Wanderlust h37.5
Forgive a dumb question. I use a preventer which runs from mid boom forward to a toe-rail block on each side and then aft where I secure it to a cleat. I use this anytime I'm sailing with the wind aft of the beam. What would a boom brake do for me that my preventer doesn't? Gary Wyngarden S/V Wanderlust h37.5
boom brake
I used to use a Waldor (French design) on my Hunter 33. Loved it. I led the control lines from the chainplates back to 3 part tackles and cleats at the cockpit. I found I needed the tackles EACH side to remove slop and increase adjustment precision. Also worked very effectively as a boom vang. Great gybe control and much less messy and bothersome than preventers. However, I had to make sure there was more tension on the mainsheet than the brake, otherwise the gooseneck could get overloaded.
I used to use a Waldor (French design) on my Hunter 33. Loved it. I led the control lines from the chainplates back to 3 part tackles and cleats at the cockpit. I found I needed the tackles EACH side to remove slop and increase adjustment precision. Also worked very effectively as a boom vang. Great gybe control and much less messy and bothersome than preventers. However, I had to make sure there was more tension on the mainsheet than the brake, otherwise the gooseneck could get overloaded.
Why a boom brake and not a preventer
Gary, In principle, once it is set up, a boom brake should make sure that the boom moves slowly from one tack to the other during a jibe, whether the jibe is planned or not. That is, no adjustment of the brake should be required before, after, or during, the jibe. Thus, if it is working properly, the boom brake should be fool proof - there is no danger of forgetting to reconfigure the preventer after a jibe. The problem is getting the brake to work reliably is not easy - too much friction in the brake and the boom won't jibe, too little friction and the brake might as well not be there. The friction adjustment is tricky because the right amount depends on the wind strength. Also, with the way I have it rigged, the friction changes as the boom vang is adjusted.
Gary, In principle, once it is set up, a boom brake should make sure that the boom moves slowly from one tack to the other during a jibe, whether the jibe is planned or not. That is, no adjustment of the brake should be required before, after, or during, the jibe. Thus, if it is working properly, the boom brake should be fool proof - there is no danger of forgetting to reconfigure the preventer after a jibe. The problem is getting the brake to work reliably is not easy - too much friction in the brake and the boom won't jibe, too little friction and the brake might as well not be there. The friction adjustment is tricky because the right amount depends on the wind strength. Also, with the way I have it rigged, the friction changes as the boom vang is adjusted.
Hi Gary, based on Larry's experience I think...
I'll stay with my preventer. It works and I know what I'm dealing with. With the preventer I can quickly change course to keep the main on the current tack. That way I can control my tack changes. With the brake I would think it forces you to make the tack change as the boom swings over in response to a wind shift. Terry
I'll stay with my preventer. It works and I know what I'm dealing with. With the preventer I can quickly change course to keep the main on the current tack. That way I can control my tack changes. With the brake I would think it forces you to make the tack change as the boom swings over in response to a wind shift. Terry
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