AFTER MUCH CONSIDERATION , I KEPT SANDING DOWN TO A CLEAN GEL COAT AND AT THAT POINT I FOUND ONE VERY SMALL BLISTER.I HAVE STARTED TO ADD 3 COATS OF INTERLUX 2000E BARRIER COAT.I STILL HAVN'T DECIDED WHAT BOTTOM PAINT TO USE.I WAS GOING TO PUT ON AN ABLATIVE BUT NOW I AM NOT SURE.WHEN DOING THE RUDDER I DID SOME REPAIR WORK ON THE GELCOAT .I FOUND SOME PLAY IN THE RUDDER SHAFT, ABOUT 3/8" MOVEMENT UP AND DOWN AT THE VERY TIP.BY LOOKING AT THE MANUAL DRAWINGS IT LOOKS LIKE THE SHAFT IS INSIDE A TUBE AND PASSES THROUGH A BRASS BUSHING.I AM ASSUMING IT IS THIS BUSHING THAT IS WORN.CAN ANYONE TELL ME HOW TO FIX THIS PROBLEM(I HAVE WHEEL STEERING WITH THE TILLER HEAD STILL IN PLACE ON THE COCKPIT SOLE FOR EMERGENCIES).I AM GUESSING THE SHAFT WILL HAVE TO BE REMOVED AND THE BUSHING PRESSED OUT.HAS ANYONE EVER DONE THIS AND HOW AND HOW HARD.CAN ANYONE SHARE THEIR EXPERIENCE WITH ME? THANKS CARROLL
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you asked a lot of questions with that post
As for rudder shaft you should verify that there is a bearing in your lower gudgeon. I had this problem in my Tartan 27 and I found a flanged brass bearing that I ground into shape to fit. A Sears hardware store had the part I needed and I did drive a good ways for it. The up and down movement could possibly allow the rudder to escape the lower gudgeon and possibly fall off altogether. I was able to lift the entire rudder out of the lower gudgeon when the bushing had worn so that it was easy to fit the new brass bushing into place and still get the lower rudder pin back into the gudgeon when it was all done. It has been good for a few years since repairing but it is something you always want to know about, I think that the technical term for this piece is called a bushing but it is flanged at one end and made of bronze and I used a grinding wheel to shape it so it would seat comfortably. There is also the consideration that the rudder shaft may need some packing added to it. Good luck with your re-coating the bottom..
As for rudder shaft you should verify that there is a bearing in your lower gudgeon. I had this problem in my Tartan 27 and I found a flanged brass bearing that I ground into shape to fit. A Sears hardware store had the part I needed and I did drive a good ways for it. The up and down movement could possibly allow the rudder to escape the lower gudgeon and possibly fall off altogether. I was able to lift the entire rudder out of the lower gudgeon when the bushing had worn so that it was easy to fit the new brass bushing into place and still get the lower rudder pin back into the gudgeon when it was all done. It has been good for a few years since repairing but it is something you always want to know about, I think that the technical term for this piece is called a bushing but it is flanged at one end and made of bronze and I used a grinding wheel to shape it so it would seat comfortably. There is also the consideration that the rudder shaft may need some packing added to it. Good luck with your re-coating the bottom..
Wheel steering
Removing the rudder with a wheel steering seems simple but is one of the most difficult project you encounter because of the ss bolts in an aluminum steering grunion The bolts will break off. This project was a hair raising experience for me Check out the web link before you undertake this project and expect the boat to be out of service for at least 2 weeks That up and down movement is from the grunion moving against the upper bushing. This as i said is a dificult repair. http://joyful.askbj.com/ Uwe
Removing the rudder with a wheel steering seems simple but is one of the most difficult project you encounter because of the ss bolts in an aluminum steering grunion The bolts will break off. This project was a hair raising experience for me Check out the web link before you undertake this project and expect the boat to be out of service for at least 2 weeks That up and down movement is from the grunion moving against the upper bushing. This as i said is a dificult repair. http://joyful.askbj.com/ Uwe
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