Arch-mount on H36 for solar panels

[Al - s/v Persephone]

Now that Persephone has returned to the Land of the Dead (Windward Yacht Yard) until her return in the Spring, I am thinking of various ways to spend money on her so she knows I still love her <g>.I have long wanted to add at least as much solar power as would trickle-charge her pair of Group 27s. However, as I look at the limited options for mounting any solar panels, I came across the Top-of-Bimini system from e-Marine, which would allow some more serious capability.http://www.e-marine-inc.com/products/mounts/topofbimini.htmlI would get a pair of 65w square panels to avoid covering the plastic Bimini window through which I monitor mainsail trim, and to give some redundancy/graceful failure capability.The missing piece of the scheme is a length of 1" SS tubing across the arch and sufficiently far aft of its top to permit the panels to clear the traveler track and boom. I want it to be sufficiently above the arch to permit free movement under it of the Bimini bow for removal/replacement of the Bimini.Has anyone done this?Do you have a drawing/photo of how the horizontal tubing was mounted to the arch?Any comments on your experience with the e-Marine system in general?Fair winds.

 

[abe]

I thought about doing something like this...

...however you may want to talk to your local bimini maker. Tell him what you want and he may be able to get the hardward to attach to you existing arch with alot less tubing and elbows. Thats my plan if I ever deside to do it.abe

 

[Alan Johnson]

Solar Panel Arch Supports

I have had solar arches on my last two boats. On the H37C I had a pair of arches bent by a local canvas shop. For cross support I had added set of tees to the tubing before bending and also attached the ends of the tubing to the deck by welding a 3/8" x 16 bolt to the tubing and attached it to the hull thru stainless fender washers. It was very strong. I also attached the rear arch to my rear pulpit for additional support. It was a very simple and strong setup. My only mistake was using the nc7A controller only rated 15 amps and was not adjustable. The 25 Amp NC25 is much better and the new MPPT are even better. Also get an ecco charger so that when your primary batteries are charged it will switch over to the start battery. Incidently, I purchased everything electronic from Jack Rabbit Marine, prices are competitive but his advise is invaluable. The H37C had a pair of 75W panels. My current boat is a Catalina 400 and I have fabricated a pair of similar arches with cross supports that I have five 65W panels attached to. Not as strong as my last boat, but the arches are a work in progress. These arches I bent using a plumbers pipe hickey. I took very carefull measurements, tried sone test bends and bent the tubing on my from lawn, looks and works great. With 330W if solar, I leave my refregeration on full time ann have never had a problem. My E mail is in the owners directory, I have digital pictures of both installations. Good luck

 

[Al - s/v Persephone]

Thanks, guys

I think I'll do a bit more research on the subject before committing to adding another 55lbs of top-hamper.In any case, if I decide to proceed, I'll certainly consult with my local canvas guy, who has done many high-quality dodger installations here.Thanks again for the voices of experience.Fair winds.

 

[Ron M]

Solar Panel Supports

I'm in the process of adding a 130 Kyocera panel over my bimini. For my support structure, I wanted it to be independent of my bimini framework and strong. The bimini is OK for the canvas it supports, but I didn't want it to be the weak link when the weather gets bad.I started by going to Marine Parts Depot for my hardware and I purchased 316 SS tubing from a local shop. I started with two uprights attached to the seating supports where they bolt to the aft section and on either side of the transom. Each upright is about 5 1/2 ft tall and at the top, I used two "T" to tie them together with a 4 ft cross piece. Then, from each upright I went forward to the arch with two tubes on each upright and attached them to the arch. It's very strong. I use the 4ft cross piece over the transom as a fulcom point to attach the aft third of the panel. The forward section of the panel is attached to 12 inch section of tubing that can slide fore and aft along the support tube running to the arch. I can then rotate the panel toward the sun fore and aft (abeam isn't doable without another fulcum). What I have is simple and strong.I will use a Xantrex C35 controller, 15 amp breaker between the PV and controller and a Xantrex BTS to keep the voltage in line with the seasonal temperature changes. Overall, this setup will provide me 75% of my electic needs while on the hook. A little energy management each day, and the diesel to get me into and out of anchorages, and I'm good to go.

 

[Al - s/v Persephone]

Charge Controller

Interesting set-up, Ron.Why did you choose the Xantrex C-35, rather than one of the Blue Sky controllers?

 

[Mark M]

What about a davit arrangement?

I guess my thought would be to add structure to the aft side of the arch to hold the panels, possibly a combination of davits and panels.They would not be blocked(more or less) by the boom/sails, the structure is much more solid than anything you could do on the bimini or dodger, and are well out of the way of foot traffic.