PLZ, I have an H376 ('97) with an anchor washdown spigot in the foredeck anchor well. I do not know how to activate the water pump to use faucet. There is no switch on the electric panel for "anchor washdown". Seems to have a pump under foredeck, but how do I activate it?? Many Thanx, MRF
anchor washdown on H376 ( '97 )
- Thread starter Marie T. Murphy
- Start date
It's something someone added at some point so it's impossible to tell unless you look for where and how it is wired. Some PO may have piggy-backed it onto another circuit, disconnected it or maybe installed but never connected it.
James, Thanx. I do not have that label, nor any other referencing the foredeck faucet. Perchance, would the "water pressure" switch also activate the anchor well spigot, as well as the rest of the water lines ?? Thanx, MRF
Don, Thanx.. BTW, Rich McCue, it's your former boat. Does the anchor wash faucet work? PLZ, how do I activate the pump?? Many Thanx. MRF
Try it, but I would think Fresh Water.
Any panel label with "DECK" on it. It is also used as a Deck wash pump.
Turn on all your DC switches to see if you get faucet pressure.
But you may have the supply water sea cock closed.
Jim...
I like @JamesG161 plan. Turn on all the DC Switches. Open the source of water (i.e a sea cock - follow the hose line under the deck back to the source.) Then try to use the wash down spigot.
Once you have it working, start by turning off the switches you know what they do. (i.e. the Chart plotter, Cabin Lights, etc.)
If the spigot still works you know it has to be one of the unlabeled or partially labeled switches. Start turning them off one at a time til the spigot stops providing water. Ta Dah... You found your spigot switch. Break out the label maker and go to town.
Once you have it working, start by turning off the switches you know what they do. (i.e. the Chart plotter, Cabin Lights, etc.)
If the spigot still works you know it has to be one of the unlabeled or partially labeled switches. Start turning them off one at a time til the spigot stops providing water. Ta Dah... You found your spigot switch. Break out the label maker and go to town.
Mine doesn’t have a switch at the panel. It runs off the battery for the windlass, and the switch is up in the v-birth section. I agree with John. Follow the hose to the pump then the wire to the switch. Use a fox and hound if the wire “disappears” into conduit/under floors.....
Les
Les
Could be, could be fox hunting with hounds is banned in Maryland.
Fox and hound aka tone and probe.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/s/ref=...probe+kit&sprefix=tone+and&crid=1Q378BU9GFENY
Fox and hound aka tone and probe.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/s/ref=...probe+kit&sprefix=tone+and&crid=1Q378BU9GFENY
MRF... let us know how you do.
Lived in DC for a while back in the 70’s. Now you can start in Dulles and drive to Annapolis and never leave the city. Back then it was country and towns did not run together. So when you say MD and DE, I get the picture.
Lived in DC for a while back in the 70’s. Now you can start in Dulles and drive to Annapolis and never leave the city. Back then it was country and towns did not run together.
So when you say MD and DE, I get the picture. 
I realize this thread is over a year old, but it has relevance to my first winterization of my 2009 H36 this year (I paid someone to do it last year). I'm wondering if anyone has solved this, or has a better solution. FWIW everyone hit on the solution - open the seacock, and open the faucet, and the pump will recognize the demand and start pumping.
I suspect I have the same washdown system as Marie - a spigot and rotary handle in the anchor locker next to the windlass in the bow. The pump is just forward of the water tank, under the V berth in the bow. The rotary handle is something of a mystery - it has no stop and can be continuously rotated in either direction, although in some position(s) the saltwater is reduced or stopped, in others it is partially/fully on. The saltwater connection is teed off of the hose for the air conditioner (I found out the hard way you need to leave that seacock open even if you can't run the A/C off of 12v, or you don't get any washdown!!) There is no on/off switch or breaker that I can find for this pump. It works as a demand pump, such that when the spigot is opened with the rotary handle, the pump actuates until the rotary handle is placed in the right (non-obvious) spot and demand flow is at zero.
The problem I ran into during winterizing was that when I disconnected the washdown hose from its Tee off the A/C unit and pumped antifreeze thru the washdown hose, the pump was unable to re-prime because the thru hull for saltwater is shut off, and there is air in the washdown line created when some antifreeze drained out before I reconnected the line to its Tee. The pump runs continuously trying to get up to pressure, which it can's with air in the line, and I can't flush out the air without opening the seacock (and ruining the winterization). It is virtually impossible to disconnect the hose connected to the seacock and winterize both systems that way because it is a short and very stiff run. I am impressed they got it on there - probably only possible when the hose was new. So, my only choices were to shut off the 12v system (no thanks), or cut the power (literally) to the pump, so I snipped the wire. Problem solved until Spring.
I'm thinking of installing a simple on/off switch in the V berth so for winterization I can just shut the pump off manually after winterizing, then turn it back on in the spring when I purge the antifreeze and get all back to normal. Alternately, I can install something to make winterizing the a/c and the washdown system easier that doesn't involve disconnecting hoses and losing prime. Its probably a PITA to redesign the seacock-to-A/C-washdown plumbing, and i'd literally have to cut stiff and stuck hoses off to make it happen, but I have this winter on the hard to figure it out. Would love some ideas.
If you read this far, thanks.
I suspect I have the same washdown system as Marie - a spigot and rotary handle in the anchor locker next to the windlass in the bow. The pump is just forward of the water tank, under the V berth in the bow. The rotary handle is something of a mystery - it has no stop and can be continuously rotated in either direction, although in some position(s) the saltwater is reduced or stopped, in others it is partially/fully on. The saltwater connection is teed off of the hose for the air conditioner (I found out the hard way you need to leave that seacock open even if you can't run the A/C off of 12v, or you don't get any washdown!!) There is no on/off switch or breaker that I can find for this pump. It works as a demand pump, such that when the spigot is opened with the rotary handle, the pump actuates until the rotary handle is placed in the right (non-obvious) spot and demand flow is at zero.
The problem I ran into during winterizing was that when I disconnected the washdown hose from its Tee off the A/C unit and pumped antifreeze thru the washdown hose, the pump was unable to re-prime because the thru hull for saltwater is shut off, and there is air in the washdown line created when some antifreeze drained out before I reconnected the line to its Tee. The pump runs continuously trying to get up to pressure, which it can's with air in the line, and I can't flush out the air without opening the seacock (and ruining the winterization). It is virtually impossible to disconnect the hose connected to the seacock and winterize both systems that way because it is a short and very stiff run. I am impressed they got it on there - probably only possible when the hose was new. So, my only choices were to shut off the 12v system (no thanks), or cut the power (literally) to the pump, so I snipped the wire. Problem solved until Spring.
I'm thinking of installing a simple on/off switch in the V berth so for winterization I can just shut the pump off manually after winterizing, then turn it back on in the spring when I purge the antifreeze and get all back to normal. Alternately, I can install something to make winterizing the a/c and the washdown system easier that doesn't involve disconnecting hoses and losing prime. Its probably a PITA to redesign the seacock-to-A/C-washdown plumbing, and i'd literally have to cut stiff and stuck hoses off to make it happen, but I have this winter on the hard to figure it out. Would love some ideas.
If you read this far, thanks.