Where are the air conditioning condensate hoses supposed to be "dumped" or connected on a 410? should they go to the shower sump or just in the bilge? If the bilge, where? Thanks
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Ed Schenck
Or don't use one.
My condensate tube on the catch pan will be attached to a valve. That valve has a hose that goes to a 'T' on the outlet cooling water hose. It sucks the condensate out of the pan and discharges it out the thru-hull. Not sure who makes it but know that Mermaid has them. (http://dterm.com/mmair/)
My condensate tube on the catch pan will be attached to a valve. That valve has a hose that goes to a 'T' on the outlet cooling water hose. It sucks the condensate out of the pan and discharges it out the thru-hull. Not sure who makes it but know that Mermaid has them. (http://dterm.com/mmair/)
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Wynn Ferrel
Marine Air doesn't recommend Venturi valves
FWIW, I you seem to be referring to a Venturi valve. I heard that one of the AC/Heat pumpt manufacturers sold them through their web site. I have a Marine Air unit on my boat. I called their customer service dept. to see if they sold them and here is the answer I got. "We don't recommend the use of Venturi valves to remove water from the condensation pay under the unit. The VV may become fouled and if it does, may pump the circulating water that is supposed to be pumped overboard back into the line from the condensation pan at the rate of about 8 GPM. Unless your bilge pump can remove well over 8 GPM we don't recommend you use a VV. It could sink your boat." I ran a hose from the nipple on the condensation pan to the bilge. The dealer had not installed the hose and he left it to gravity feed to the bilge. I'm not crazy about that. I am trying hard to eliminate a strong, musty oder that is in the bilge area. I'm pretty certain it is from the stagnet water in the bilge that comes from the AC unitand also stagnet water in the condensation pan below the nipple. Don't like it, but I don't know what else to do. Wynn Ferrel S/V Tranquility
FWIW, I you seem to be referring to a Venturi valve. I heard that one of the AC/Heat pumpt manufacturers sold them through their web site. I have a Marine Air unit on my boat. I called their customer service dept. to see if they sold them and here is the answer I got. "We don't recommend the use of Venturi valves to remove water from the condensation pay under the unit. The VV may become fouled and if it does, may pump the circulating water that is supposed to be pumped overboard back into the line from the condensation pan at the rate of about 8 GPM. Unless your bilge pump can remove well over 8 GPM we don't recommend you use a VV. It could sink your boat." I ran a hose from the nipple on the condensation pan to the bilge. The dealer had not installed the hose and he left it to gravity feed to the bilge. I'm not crazy about that. I am trying hard to eliminate a strong, musty oder that is in the bilge area. I'm pretty certain it is from the stagnet water in the bilge that comes from the AC unitand also stagnet water in the condensation pan below the nipple. Don't like it, but I don't know what else to do. Wynn Ferrel S/V Tranquility
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John Kudera
Venturi
I installed Mermaid's venturi valve this spring, on my unit it works fine, only problem is when there is no water in the pan you hear a sucking sound!! The clog mentioned in the previous post would have to be in the discharge line, and I do not think there could be a blockage that large, especially if the unit is running. Any clog in the small line from the pan will overflow the pan. A clog in the inlet line will shut the unit down.
I installed Mermaid's venturi valve this spring, on my unit it works fine, only problem is when there is no water in the pan you hear a sucking sound!! The clog mentioned in the previous post would have to be in the discharge line, and I do not think there could be a blockage that large, especially if the unit is running. Any clog in the small line from the pan will overflow the pan. A clog in the inlet line will shut the unit down.
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David
Condensate hoses
I have a 16000btu ocean marine reverse cycle AC/Heat pump. I have condensate drain lines that are hooked up to the condensor/evaporator as well as the pan beneath the unit. The pan normally stays dry unless the main lines become blocked. I have all of these lines attached to an Atwood shower sump unit with a float switch and small submersible pump that dumps overboard. I like to keep my bilge dry. I purchase the sump from West for approximately $90.
I have a 16000btu ocean marine reverse cycle AC/Heat pump. I have condensate drain lines that are hooked up to the condensor/evaporator as well as the pan beneath the unit. The pan normally stays dry unless the main lines become blocked. I have all of these lines attached to an Atwood shower sump unit with a float switch and small submersible pump that dumps overboard. I like to keep my bilge dry. I purchase the sump from West for approximately $90.
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Jeff Jones
Venturi info
I too have installed a venturi unit (Mermaid condensator kit). Works very well, but... I offer the following cautions/suggestions: I believe John K. is correct in his statement that a clog in the discharge line is very unlikely, and if it was to occur the unit would quickly develop high head pressure and shut down. The condensator does have a very small pick-up tube which does have a one-way valve (which categorically you never want to trust) so in the unlikely event the discharge is plugged the pressure produced by the pump wouldn't force water back into the pan. I don't believe that this is the typical concern with the device however. I believe the concern is that many boaters fail to regularly check the filter, which is placed before the venturi device. If this line or the venturi port itself becomes obstructed the device fails to empty the pan and the overflowing pan causes the damage. In very humid climates were units are sometimes left running and unattended for days or weeks in the 'de-humidify' or cool modes this can amount to a large quantity of water (gallons per day)! I have 'heard' third hand that some boats were damaged in this fashion. If you install the pick-up using 1/4" tubing (greatly reduces the 'sucking/gurgling' sound) through an easily checked, easily cleaned filter, you are part of the way. I fashioned a stand tube mount for the pick-up so that the small 1/4" line enters the pan vertically (angle cut the hose end), instead of utilizing the existing pan drain holes. This does two things for me. First, it keeps the pan virtually dry instead of waiting for the water to reach the level of the drain holes before it's picked up. Second, it allows me to run a tee'd conventional drain line from the pan to my shower sump, just in case the condensator fails or some water is left behind when the boat is underway. I installed two fittings, one on port and one on starboard connected with a tee. Any left over condensation would just drain into the line and not slosh around in the pan. I have monitored the water in my pan, and would bet that no more than 1/4 cup has ever been in the pan, if that. I have never found any water in the shower sump from my overflow lines. Last, IMHO you shouldn't leave an AC unit on unattended. After all, if the discharge line was plugged on a 'conventional' drain system, who's to say the hose clamps, discharge thru-hull, etc. might not pop off and have a 'negative impact' on the vessels buoyancy? Jeff Jones Escapade
I too have installed a venturi unit (Mermaid condensator kit). Works very well, but... I offer the following cautions/suggestions: I believe John K. is correct in his statement that a clog in the discharge line is very unlikely, and if it was to occur the unit would quickly develop high head pressure and shut down. The condensator does have a very small pick-up tube which does have a one-way valve (which categorically you never want to trust) so in the unlikely event the discharge is plugged the pressure produced by the pump wouldn't force water back into the pan. I don't believe that this is the typical concern with the device however. I believe the concern is that many boaters fail to regularly check the filter, which is placed before the venturi device. If this line or the venturi port itself becomes obstructed the device fails to empty the pan and the overflowing pan causes the damage. In very humid climates were units are sometimes left running and unattended for days or weeks in the 'de-humidify' or cool modes this can amount to a large quantity of water (gallons per day)! I have 'heard' third hand that some boats were damaged in this fashion. If you install the pick-up using 1/4" tubing (greatly reduces the 'sucking/gurgling' sound) through an easily checked, easily cleaned filter, you are part of the way. I fashioned a stand tube mount for the pick-up so that the small 1/4" line enters the pan vertically (angle cut the hose end), instead of utilizing the existing pan drain holes. This does two things for me. First, it keeps the pan virtually dry instead of waiting for the water to reach the level of the drain holes before it's picked up. Second, it allows me to run a tee'd conventional drain line from the pan to my shower sump, just in case the condensator fails or some water is left behind when the boat is underway. I installed two fittings, one on port and one on starboard connected with a tee. Any left over condensation would just drain into the line and not slosh around in the pan. I have monitored the water in my pan, and would bet that no more than 1/4 cup has ever been in the pan, if that. I have never found any water in the shower sump from my overflow lines. Last, IMHO you shouldn't leave an AC unit on unattended. After all, if the discharge line was plugged on a 'conventional' drain system, who's to say the hose clamps, discharge thru-hull, etc. might not pop off and have a 'negative impact' on the vessels buoyancy? Jeff Jones Escapade
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bill walton
shower sump
On my 42, I ran new lines from both A/C units to the shower sump. It wasn't too hard for the front unit but the rear unit was a pain. I wish I had known about the valve for that unit. I like the last comment. I frequently leave one of my units on in order to keep humidity down and hadn't thought about the adverse effects. I'll have to rethink my actions.
On my 42, I ran new lines from both A/C units to the shower sump. It wasn't too hard for the front unit but the rear unit was a pain. I wish I had known about the valve for that unit. I like the last comment. I frequently leave one of my units on in order to keep humidity down and hadn't thought about the adverse effects. I'll have to rethink my actions.
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bill walton
P42 shower sump
On my 42, I ran new lines from both A/C units to the shower sump. It wasn't too hard for the front unit but the rear unit was a pain. I wish I had known about the valve for that unit. I like the last comment. I frequently leave one of my units on in order to keep humidity down and hadn't thought about the adverse effects. I'll have to rethink my actions.
On my 42, I ran new lines from both A/C units to the shower sump. It wasn't too hard for the front unit but the rear unit was a pain. I wish I had known about the valve for that unit. I like the last comment. I frequently leave one of my units on in order to keep humidity down and hadn't thought about the adverse effects. I'll have to rethink my actions.
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Joel Teicher
Condensate hoses
My condensate pans had 3/8" ID hoses draining into the bilge - as mfg. directions. However, the forward hose was blocked due to a kink in the hose from running the hose over a structural bump located adjacent to the a/c pan. The condensate tray was full. I rerouted the hose with a right angle nipple and put directed it into the bilge. Condensate water doesnt smell, its practically distilled water and probably helps to keep the bilge cleaner by adding clean water.
My condensate pans had 3/8" ID hoses draining into the bilge - as mfg. directions. However, the forward hose was blocked due to a kink in the hose from running the hose over a structural bump located adjacent to the a/c pan. The condensate tray was full. I rerouted the hose with a right angle nipple and put directed it into the bilge. Condensate water doesnt smell, its practically distilled water and probably helps to keep the bilge cleaner by adding clean water.
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Gordon Myers
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