A1
- Thread starter pumpkinpie
- Start date
Without knowing controls or brand, I'd guess that A=Automatic fan.. Comes on when compressor does and adjusts itself for speed based on how far from the temperature setpoint it is.. 1-6 is a manual fan setting for a constant speed. There probably is another setting for fan on always or fan on when compressor is on..
Sounds right.. I think my answer is more or less accurate ..
EDIT.. The "A", depending on which screen is displayed may also mean "Automatic" in the sense that you set a temperature and it will try to maintain that, automatically shifting to "Heat" mode if it gets cold enough..
EDIT.. The "A", depending on which screen is displayed may also mean "Automatic" in the sense that you set a temperature and it will try to maintain that, automatically shifting to "Heat" mode if it gets cold enough..
On the other hand.... It could be...
A= All night long
1= Tepid
6= ICE CUBES
Maybe knot...
A= All night long
1= Tepid
6= ICE CUBES
Maybe knot...
I would suggest getting the model number from the condenser or evaporator housing and then searching online for the appropriate operating manual. There you will find your answers. With digital controls there are several modes that you can program the unit in which to operate as Kloudie mentioned.
If you are on board and running the AC continuously, I would clean the strainer weekly, because it gets clogged with slime/algae and sometimes seaweed in summer months in hot water. When the water temps decline in late fall and winter, you can easily get by with checking/cleaning the filter monthly.
Seems that during night time operation, the unit would cycle on & off unless you've got the temperature on the thermostat set in 60's. During daytime, it will likely run continuously with temps being in the 90's around Tampa. One way to help keep cool with the high summer temps & humidity is to install 12V cabin fans to move air around in the cabin. An awning fitted over the cabin will also drop the cabin temps, as the sun isn't directly hitting the cabin deck, and will reduce the workload on the AC system. Appears that you may have to devise a system for eliminating excess condensate. A condensator unit would do the trick. I am not a fan of allowing the condensate to drain into the bilge; others don't see that being a problem.....another ongoing debate!
If you are on board and running the AC continuously, I would clean the strainer weekly, because it gets clogged with slime/algae and sometimes seaweed in summer months in hot water. When the water temps decline in late fall and winter, you can easily get by with checking/cleaning the filter monthly.
Seems that during night time operation, the unit would cycle on & off unless you've got the temperature on the thermostat set in 60's. During daytime, it will likely run continuously with temps being in the 90's around Tampa. One way to help keep cool with the high summer temps & humidity is to install 12V cabin fans to move air around in the cabin. An awning fitted over the cabin will also drop the cabin temps, as the sun isn't directly hitting the cabin deck, and will reduce the workload on the AC system. Appears that you may have to devise a system for eliminating excess condensate. A condensator unit would do the trick. I am not a fan of allowing the condensate to drain into the bilge; others don't see that being a problem.....another ongoing debate!
On my Dometic AC...
A= Automatic Fan and it will run 24/7 in Heat or Cool mode, if the unit is powered on.
1-6 are manual fan speeds.
Jim...
A= Automatic Fan and it will run 24/7 in Heat or Cool mode, if the unit is powered on.
1-6 are manual fan speeds.
Jim...
If you have the Dometric as I do in my 2008 38 let me know. I can scan and send you a copy of the manual. I also have a quick reference guide for the control settings.
A stands for auto and the one through six are manual fan speeds. These are accessed through the fan control button.
I think you probably have two air conditioning units. One in the main cabin and one in the aft. They have separate controllers and operate independently except that they share a common cooling water pump. There should be two discharges. One on the starboard About a third of the way back from the bow. The other discharge is on starboard side near the stern.
There are quite a few programming options so to try to guess at them is like shooting in the dark.
Here I did one better. A quick google search produced the manual for my system. Hope it’s same as yours as this should have everything you need to know.
https://citimarinestore.com/en/index.php?controller=attachment&id_attachment=720
Drop me a note if you have questions. Happy to help
A stands for auto and the one through six are manual fan speeds. These are accessed through the fan control button.
I think you probably have two air conditioning units. One in the main cabin and one in the aft. They have separate controllers and operate independently except that they share a common cooling water pump. There should be two discharges. One on the starboard About a third of the way back from the bow. The other discharge is on starboard side near the stern.
There are quite a few programming options so to try to guess at them is like shooting in the dark.
Here I did one better. A quick google search produced the manual for my system. Hope it’s same as yours as this should have everything you need to know.
https://citimarinestore.com/en/index.php?controller=attachment&id_attachment=720
Drop me a note if you have questions. Happy to help
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"Use it or loose it" No need to give it a break for the time that you are aboard then run it at least once a month when the boat is unattended. About the drip pan being full that is par for the course in Tampa during the summer.
@BigEasy 's answer will serve you well for most of the equipment on your boat. Boat manufacturers mainly make a hull and then equip it with stuff from various makers. The Hunter "manual" for your boat was most likely a compendium of various user manuals. Luckily you can obtain many of the manuals your self, as BigEasy pointed out.
High Refrigerant temperature shut off.
Means inside cabin is > 95° or your sea water flow is too low.
Jim...
@pumpkinpie The manual posted above should work with understanding the controls. The HPF is a warming and shuts down the AC when it isn't getting sufficient cooling intake water, which you fixed by cleaning the strainer. I also had an air pocket in my system after I cleaned the filter, it was fixed by using a water hose sprayed directly into the discharge opening for a few seconds.
There should be a condensation drain line from the pain. On my C310 it is a gravity line to the forward sump, not a good solution. You might also have condensation removal kit that works on your drain line like one of these, I plan to buy and install this in the future.
https://www.defender.com/product.jsp?id=2756613
There should be a condensation drain line from the pain. On my C310 it is a gravity line to the forward sump, not a good solution. You might also have condensation removal kit that works on your drain line like one of these, I plan to buy and install this in the future.
https://www.defender.com/product.jsp?id=2756613
Would love to hear more about a “condensate” unit. I googled and nothing relevant to a/c runoff came up.
I have two units..... front unit pours a lot of condensation. Rear unit I see non and the drip pan is plugged. Haven’t gotten there in my investigations as other projects are ahead but have passively looked around and can’t figure out.
Thanks!
Greg
FYI:
I simply ran hose from the outlet fitting on the A/C pans to my shower sumps. Simple, low cost, and perfectly effective.
I simply ran hose from the outlet fitting on the A/C pans to my shower sumps. Simple, low cost, and perfectly effective.
Try a search in the forum archives. There are a couple of previous threads on this topic