34/35 Prop Shaft Strut?

Jan 27, 2008
3,010
ODay 35 Beaufort, NC
IIRC you have to remove the fuel tank to get at the bolts for the strut. Quite a project. I replaced my fuel tank several years ago.
 
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Aug 17, 2010
273
Oday 35 Barrington
IIRC you have to remove the fuel tank to get at the bolts for the strut. Quite a project. I replaced my fuel tank several years ago.
I believe that you are correct... When speaking with Rudy, he indicated that IF the screws come out, and IF the holes are drilled in the strut exactly as the holes in the original strut, then I could simply screw in the bolts to reattach the strut. Otherwise, the tank has to come out, and the nuts, which are encased in fiberglass will have to be dug out. :wahwah:
 
Aug 17, 2010
273
Oday 35 Barrington
I did not see on the drawings the alignment holes for the bolts to install the strut on your boat. Do you have to drill the new strut bolt holes?
You are correct - there are no bolt holes on the new strut. Rudy indicated that they were drilled when the strut was mounted at the factory, and therefore there is no standard location. My plan is to remove the current strut, insert short screws into the holes, apply paint to the screw heads, position the new strut and thereby transfer the location on the old holes in the hull on the new strut, and finally, drill the holes.

Also, the boat was hauled a week ago, and I was able to compare the new with the old. I believe that there are two fasteners that are holding the OEM strut to the hull, in addition to a generous bed of 5200 (or similar) adhesive. In comparing the new and old strut, I have come to the conclusion that, despite the electrolytic corrosion that took place, the old strut is still mechanically up to the task. There are no cracks or any signs of weakness that I can discern. Also, I am not looking forward to dropping the rudder, and draining and lifting the (full) fuel tank in order to replace the strut. I will
therefore hold onto the strut until I see any sign of weakness, or until I sell the boat (not planned).
 

jrowan

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Mar 5, 2011
1,294
O'Day 35 Severn River, Mobjack Bay, Va.
Yeah, I guess after all the waiting & money spent you still have to drill the holes for the mounting bolts?
 
Sep 23, 2009
1,459
O'Day 34-At Last Rock Hall, Md
If the old one is still good why not keep new as spare? Good to know replacements are available. What was the cost? Will you need to remove the engine to remove the tank or can you just slide the tank forward?
 
Aug 17, 2010
273
Oday 35 Barrington
If the old one is still good why not keep new as spare? Good to know replacements are available. What was the cost? Will you need to remove the engine to remove the tank or can you just slide the tank forward?
I am keeping the new one as a spare (did I not say this?). I was able to source a replacement - although it took some time. I would not bet on being able to source one next year. When (if?) I replace the strut, the tank must either be lifted vertically or removed so that I can have access to the hull under the tank. No need to touch the engine at all. Right now the tank is full (I always fill it before I have the boat hauled), so lifting the tank would be more complex than if it were empty.
 

dmax

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Jul 29, 2018
534
O'Day 35 Buzzards Bay
I think the tank will have to come out to access the strut bolts - I just removed my tank last weekend, major pain if you don't want to cut fiberglass (I cut the tank). I don't think lifting it will give enough access as there's only about 6 inches of room above the tank.
 

dmax

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Jul 29, 2018
534
O'Day 35 Buzzards Bay
Given the corrosion that occurred, do you think it would be worthwhile to attach a zinc to the strut?
 
Aug 11, 2011
669
O'day 30 313 Georgetown MD
I could not remove the cutlass bearing on my 30 CB. The collets for the removal tool where either too small and seemed to push the rubber and not the brass sleeve or too big and would not push the sleeve thru. Using a tool that one doesn't need to remove the shaft. So I did the next best thing. I just removed the screws from the strut and cut away the 4200 sealant. It came away and I just slid it off. Now to cut the bearing out, order a new sleeve and re install.
 

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Aug 17, 2010
273
Oday 35 Barrington
If you only need the bearing, I believe that the Johnson Duramax bearing part number is BAIT: 1" ID x 4" L x 1-3/8" OD, and they currently cost about $90.
 
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dmax

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Jul 29, 2018
534
O'Day 35 Buzzards Bay
Beautiful. How hard was it to remove the backing plates inside the hull - I assume that's what they are, mine has a lump of resin/filler over them. I replaced my cutless a couple of years ago with this:
 
Aug 11, 2011
669
O'day 30 313 Georgetown MD
@ dmax. Not hard at all. I started with a large Philip's head on a ratchet tool. That loosened two of the four machine screws. The other two needed some talking to with a impact tool. Once loosened I backed them out with a large screw driver. I them pulled a little and with a Stanley knife I removed some or most of the 4200. I came away nicely. Turned it upside down on the shaft and slid it off. The nuts are captured inside. Of course I had already removed the keyway for the prop. I course brushed the strut and then had sanded. My intent was to get the blue ablative paint off. Not bad for a first once over. Now the question........Prop Speed or not? How much will this really help or should I use the $300 elsewhere.
 
Aug 11, 2011
669
O'day 30 313 Georgetown MD
@ Alan 2210. Thanks for the great picture of your finished shaft/strutt/anode set up. My question to you is: Having replaced the cutlass bearing, did you need to realign the shaft, or was the replacement as simple as just replacing and ready for immediate use?