1986 Newport 27-3 first boat

Sep 8, 2020
15
NerwPort 27 Lakeshore Marina
I am exited and a bit daunted to own my first boat. Its currently docked in Chattanooga. I'll load some pictures tomorrow, when I finish all the marina paperwork.
I'm not exactly sure where to start with this boat, as it likely needs a good deal of care and maintenance. I read they make good first sailboats, and hope to travel many miles of the river with it.

Hopefully the community can help me out, and help me become a better boater and sailor!

I've got a long list of things to check before I undock!
 
Jan 1, 2006
6,088
Slickcraft 26 Greenport, NY
Congrats on the purchase. Remain dauntless. It's just a sailboat. You'll improve it over the time you own it. Main thing is to get it ready to use and then use it. Did you have a survey? If so what were the Rx'ed fixes?
 
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Aug 28, 2006
493
Bavaria 35E seattle
Yes, a good idea as said here is to post your list. My first boat was a tiller steered O'Day 27. It's a good size to learn on, both in terms of sailing skills and mechanically understanding a boat. We're here to help! :beer:
 
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Sep 8, 2020
15
NerwPort 27 Lakeshore Marina
Thank you for the kind words. I will need help for sure. Let me answer some questions and post a picture or two.

I did not have a survey done, the boat was almost free. I felt that I could simply sell the outboard and make a profit, and I knew I was getting into a "project boat". I was decidedly abandoned by the previous owner. There are many good new tools, accessories, and other items which is lovely.

IMG_1317.jpg


It does not have a name.

I cleaned for 5-6 hours today. Mostly trash. Piles of vinyl flooring had been put below, I assume with plans of replacing the aging wood. This was ultimately detrimental, as now the wood is soaked, and some is in very poor repair.

Someone had stolen the shore power cable. With 3 years of absentee owner, who knows what this boat has seen. There were 4 new dock lines stowed, which I quickly changed out - because it was moored with the SHEETS. I felt this was sub-optimal. The fenders were also not deployed, so there is a crack in the fibergass/plastic whatever that trim piece is called, where it contacted the dock post. Problem solved, plenty of fenders in the port aft storage locker.

The outside needs cleaned, I assume all of the lines need replaced. Some blocks are in ok condition, but most of the line looks like this:
DSC00714.JPG


Baby steps.

Anchor? Davinport 25lb, a smaller anchor, and a decent rode. Anchor locker? full of 2 feet of water. Good thing I found a working hand pump! Does this thing have a drain? I didn't see one. Maybe its just blocked with dirt.

DSC00741.JPG


Sails? Main and some kind of head sail stuffed in the V-berth, I didn't even bother trying to fight with it today.

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Main looks ok, and the cars travel freely. Some of the blocks even look new:

DSC00745.JPG


Now for the disaster. The previous owner said that someone stole his shore power cable, which cut power to the bilge pump. Rain water got in, you know the rest:
DSC00731.JPG


Bilge pump is new. Tested all the wiring, checked out. I put in a new battery, connected the battery charger to shore power, flipped the main electric switch, manually lifted the bilge pump auto-switch, and it ran. Good.

Bad, plumbing issues somewhere mean that after the pump empties out all the water and shuts off, most of it just flows back into the bilge. Is this how its suppose to work?

Second concern. Dorades, mine has two! Bonus, easy to run shore power extension cord through because they just go directly into the cabin. I understood they have some sort of water drain? The starboard definitely leaked, and destroyed the vinyl ceiling panel, along with the balsa/plywood above it. No soft spots in fiberglass, just the wood below the vent. Its also the one that is glued in place. The port side I can just pop off with my hand. Ventilation is nice, but I feel 4-inch holes in the deck is another thing on the sub-optimal list.
DSC00729.JPG


I threw most of the cushions forward, to allow more of the wood to dry. Inside the hull, its dry. I pulled up all the v-berth and crawled down inside, no water. Just the cabin and bilge.

Obviously not enough water gets in to be a major concern, but I need to dry the boat out completely.

Questions I have:
1. To where does the bilge discharge? There is a hose that goes way around to port, but then it dissapears into a place I have not been able to access, which may require tearing into the head.
2. What to do about the floor? I assume its wood glued to the fiberglass? Try to salvage? Totally gut and replace?
3. Can I just throw a tarp over the whole deck to help keep the rain out? Maybe crack open the hatches as well?
4. If the boat were originally ordered without an inboard engine, would the factory have installed a Diesel fill port, and fill hose?
5. Can I actually fit in the Aft cabin?

I hope you will continue to advise me on this rebuild, and not run away screaming. I located a marina close by that has a lift, and will do a haulout. I have asked if they will put me on the hard, and if I can do the work myself. Here is hoping. Taking 5 heavy loads of vinyl flooring from the boat to the dumpster was heavy work.

Cheers!
 
Jan 1, 2006
6,088
Slickcraft 26 Greenport, NY
I might be inclined to take a power washer to the deck and cockpit. There's a very good chance it will clean up. Maybe not be beautiful but useable.
It looks like you'll need new running rigging at least for the backstay adjuster. I might try the power washer on the mainsheet as that looks like primarily mildew.
The anchor looks OK but you may want some chain.
The anchor locker most probably has a drain. Look for it on the outside of the hull. You should flush and drain it until the dirt and paint chips are gone and water drains freely.
Bilge pumps exit the hull above the waterline. It is regular for the water in the hose to drain back into the bilge when the pump shuts off. You can put a one way valve in but many feel this slows the water stream down and retains water in the hose.
The cabin sole is shot. Don't waste time with repair. Replace. I don't know how that boat was constructed. But if the sole is wood it was probably built on stringers which cross the cabin athwartships. You would need a sub-floor of marine ply. I'd consider putting a carpet remnant over the sub-floor and be done with it. Replace as necessary.
Take down the headliner. Don't bother trying to re-glue it. Consider painting the underside of the deck.
A tarp over the whole deck won't work. You can build a tent but why?
Dorade vents are good. Ventilation goes a long way to reduce odors and mildew. Boats should have airflow through them. Repair the vents so they don't leak.
On your list there aren't the big money items. You haven't mentioned soft deck, rotted bulkheads, corroded chainplates, hull blisters, new standing rigging, a rough bottom, keel problems etc. What you have is a seriously neglected boat that needs a major clean up. I would remove everything from the boat. Everything - except pumps. Then I would try to decide if you want to boat to use for day sails, overnights, longer cruises, or if you want to restore it for resell. If the latter, you should know that it will never be worth the time and money it would take to do that.
 
Oct 22, 2014
16,115
CAL 35 Cruiser moored EVERETT WA
Questions I have:
1. To where does the bilge discharge? There is a hose that goes way around to port, but then it dissapears into a place I have not been able to access, which may require tearing into the head.

Bilge should discharge overboard. You may have a hole in the stern or one on the side of the boat. Stern is most likely. The condition of the boat may have the hose from the pump broken of clogged. You will need to find both ends of the hose and securely attach it to the through hull so that water from the pump dumps outside of the boat.
2. What to do about the floor? I assume its wood glued to the fiberglass? Try to salvage? Totally gut and replace?
I would gut all the damaged wood. If you still have enough solid wood left you could patch it. There is nothing wrong with dumping all of it and starting fresh. A big concern it that the wood the forms the inner frame of the boat may be rotted. This needs to be removed and replaced. The boats outer skin is held in shape by the inner frame. Some boats use wood to construct this inner frame some use fiberglass.
3. Can I just throw a tarp over the whole deck to help keep the rain out? Maybe crack open the hatches as well?
Absolutely. A tarp would be a great temporary winter cover.
4. If the boat were originally ordered without an inboard engine, would the factory have installed a Diesel fill port, and fill hose?
Maybe?
5. Can I actually fit in the Aft cabin?
Give it a try.

I would get everything that is not nailed down on the boat off it so you can begin the work of Rebuilding the boat. I would put dehumidifier on the boat under your tarp. You will need to empty the water off the boat. This will take a few days. Then you will have a place to start.

Good luck.
 
Sep 8, 2020
15
NerwPort 27 Lakeshore Marina
Day two of working on the boat:
D0C35270-88D8-47F0-9C20-90D715DA846D 2.JPG


Got the big 155 Genoa up, back on the furler, all things work as expected except the wench. The wench won't grip the line unless I apply pressure, this is difficult. I may still look for a asymmetrical spinnaker but the 155 is probably a very nice light air sail.

With the help of some internet friends, I discovered that the boat is setup for a spinnaker pole, with halyard, and topping lift ran through mast, mast pole travel car, but not a pole. There are mounting points for holding the pole on the deck, but the pole is missing. That's fine, I don't actually want to fly with a pole anyhow. Because I would like a big asym, I'll probably end up using one of the halyards for the pole, if its strong enough, since its already run through the mast and ready to go.

More research let me get the headsail up, and apparently it has a wire halyard that transitions to poly line:

IMG_1325.jpg


Is the wire suppose to come this far out of the mast? If this is fine, I won't worry about it, but in order to keep the headsail up, its going to have to stay like this.

The Dorades I only saw on one other late 80's Newport, and they were just mushroom vents. I feel this is the leak area and will replace with a better sealed metal mushroom vent as the plastic dorades are not the best quality. Removed all damaged, rotted wood. Through-deck hardware seals look good, no leaks. The hardware its self seems sound.

As for the sole:

IMG_1331.JPG


Literally just scooped it out with my hand. No stringers, just a false glass floor which had plywood screwed down and teak on top. Will replace with plywood. The real question, to varnish?, epoxy?, stain and leave natural? How to finish?

Also tossed all the cushions. They might have been salvageable, but after 40 years, it was time. Mainsail is very dirty but looks good.

Making progress.
 
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Jul 7, 2004
8,013
Hunter 30T Cheney, KS
The "wenches" usually have to be wined and dined to work properly :)



A ship is always referred to as "she" because it costs so much to keep one in paint and powder.
Chester Nimitz
 
Oct 22, 2014
16,115
CAL 35 Cruiser moored EVERETT WA
Yes the wire/line (rope) halyard is a thing from the 80’s. The wire comes out of the mast and down to the winch or cleat at the mast base as the sail goes up.
 
Sep 8, 2020
15
NerwPort 27 Lakeshore Marina
Yes the wire/line (rope) halyard is a thing from the 80’s. The wire comes out of the mast and down to the winch or cleat at the mast base as the sail goes up.
Sorry for the autocorrect. Winch slips, I'll have to research that.

I was wondering if leaving the splice end exposed would be not good? Maybe its fine.
 
Jul 7, 2004
8,013
Hunter 30T Cheney, KS
Yes the wire/line (rope) halyard is a thing from the 80’s. The wire comes out of the mast and down to the winch or cleat at the mast base as the sail goes up.
They screeech something awful when they don't work properly
 
Oct 22, 2014
16,115
CAL 35 Cruiser moored EVERETT WA
John eventually whether hidden or exposed we all turn to dust.

Use the halyards and sail a lot. When you get home drop the sail and secure the boat safely away. Your wire/line spices should retract into the mast, if they run through the mast when you drop the sail. If they are outside the mast nothing can be done to hide them.

Eventually we all replace our halyards.

When I refit my mast, I changed the halyards to line. I like the feel. Eventually they will wear out and I will need to replace. I intend to have as much fun as possible with them as long as they last.
 
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Sep 8, 2020
15
NerwPort 27 Lakeshore Marina
Continuing update - I spent the first night on the boat. It was quite comfortable, but I had all by backpacking gear (thick Big Agnus sleep pad, 20f bag) which made it warm. Heater ran off and on to keep it about 45f inside.

I've covered the deck in plastic from the bow up to the mast, and put a tarp over the boom. This greatly reduced the leaky dorade. I found the boat I own, Hull #900, was previously "Southern Cross" Southern Cross
The Dorades are most likely original, but they are in serious need of repair or replacement. A solar vent with rain shield is my current plan of attack there.

The cabin ceiling plywood is in great condition, with mold covering the vinyl hopefully easy to clean. After a few weeks of the plastic covering, I have detected two leaks through the deck hardware, one forward port, and one aft starboard. There is also a concerning hole in the deck just below the mast plate. It's L-shaped, doesn't seem to leak, but seems to have been cut from the inside. I can't figure out why this was done, or if it was original to the boat.

I took the floor up completely, and vacuumed the entire boat. The cabin sole just scooped away by hand, only being held together by hope. Scrubbing the V-berth, it is vastly improved. I painted all the wood with diluted Tea Tree Oil which smells much more lovely than the vinegar I used in the initial cleaning. The water tank which is situated under the V-berth may be usable, but after 40 years, and unknown neglect, I have elected to replace it, probably with a bag type unit of larger volume.

DSC00749.JPG


I got the stove working! A great triumph, celebrated with morning Coffee.
Removed portable toilet, also fell apart due to age and neglect - glad it was empty!
Removed all clogs for all drains, except the galley sink which is blocked below in the plumbing.
Cabin light electrics work, Navigation lights work, plan on relocating battery to engine compartment and re-wiring boat.

I am still looking for a similar bilge pump of 1000gph, but physically smaller size that will sit down lower in the bilge.
Only one additional panel of interior wood will need replaced due to rot. That is a success I feel.

Final question for the day, how to deal with the paint on the underside/interior of the fiberglass, which is pealing away in some places? More research is needed.
 
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Sep 8, 2020
15
NerwPort 27 Lakeshore Marina
Can you provide us with a photo?
mast-hole_1.3.1.jpg


This is the best photo I have currently. I can get you a better one tomorrow. The hole in the fiberglass extends from the mast support beam, just above that wiring, to the right, in this photo, some 4 inches. There is wood above the hole, it is not rotten, and it doesn't seem to leak.

I am scheduled to have bottom paint done next month, when they will de-step the mast, and my plan was to simply glass in this hole?
 

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