Project

Jan 16, 2021
4
O’Day 20 garaged
Hello, I’m 100% new to sailing so excuse my ignorance in most all sailing matters. I have been given a 1974 O’Day 20 that had been sitting uncovered outdoor for at minimum a couple years. Rain had found its way into the cabin because the prior owner had left the cabin open. I know it might be a waste of time but I’m in need of a project and this might help me check learning to sail off my to do list in the long run. So far I’ve only done a rough cleaning and pulled out as much water as I could find, however there is still water somewhere in the hull. Like I said, it rained and the cabin was open for over a year. I’m focused on getting it dry as of now.
My main question for starters is what are the main issues you have ran into with your boat?
Main areas it leaks and/or collects water,
Dry rot issues, etc.
I still need to do a lot of inspecting (dry rot, stringers, etc.) but I’m very fresh to everything boat related and have no idea what I’m doing. I’m mainly relying on forums and videos to guide me as of now, luckily I’m patient. Throw any tips, tricks, or knowledge I’m open for any and all. I have a lot to learn.
 

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Jul 30, 2019
216
Seaward 25 777 Fort St. James
Welcome! Nice little boat, and a great starter sailboat. Same model and year as we started with.

These are simple, but well built, boats. No inherent problems, although as with any wood coring, you must check the deck for soft spots. The hull is solid, so no problems there. Leaks? Well, an open cockpit and no tarp is all you need to cause one helluva leak! Buy a tarp or keep it under cover.

You will have to cut access into the subfloor space near that bulkhead and suck out the last water. Hopefully you won't have too much rot, but it's just marine plywood, and nothing very complicated to replace.

In theory the cockpit drains itself. You should have 2 drains in the cockpit, so make sure they are both clear. The forward one has a tendency to clog very easily, but the stern one seldom clogs. Unfortunately the threshold to the cabin is usually lower than the stern drain and so the cabin will fill with water. Honestly, your pictures don't seem to indicate a lot of damage, but it's hard to be sure.

 
Jan 16, 2021
4
O’Day 20 garaged
Thanks for the reply! I have checked the deck and found a couple soft spots near and around the front hatch. I plan on cutting an access in the subfloor to pull the rest of the water out next and then replace with a ski locker lid. I’ll be moving it undercover soon, but the tarp is working well for now. Still tearing out some of the wood in the cabin as of now.
 

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Jul 30, 2019
216
Seaward 25 777 Fort St. James
You are making rapid progress!

Under the V-berth you may well find foam of some kind. My boat has an access hatch there with a place made for a 2nd battery (1st battery is under the port lazarette) and all the foam has long since been removed.

You will need to replace the bulkhead, but only need a post, however with the deck-stepped mast it is essential to have some kind of reinforcement under the tabernacle. Make sure you have no soft spots on the cabin roof, also because of the importance of a strong base for the mast.

You don't seem to have any wiring. Not that there is much, but my factory wiring has a half dozen switches.

Did you get any sails with the boat? That is likely to be your single greatest expense.

PS. If you need any photos during your project, or measurements, feel free to ask. My boat is in pretty original condition and has been well cared for. But, it wasn't free!
 
Jan 16, 2021
4
O’Day 20 garaged
Didn’t do much work today. Hole in the floor coming soon. Came with sails in good condition so that was a huge save! Questions:
I have some stress fractures in the fiberglass around the bottom rudder mount, any wisdom on how to approach it?
What kind of rot might I expect when I do get into the floor (stringers,etc.)?
I’m assuming it has had a hull full of water for as long as the prior owner had it sitting so I’m praying for minimal rot. I’m sure it has been sitting for far longer than the “over a year” he told me, especially with what it looked like before I spent an afternoon pressure washing it.
It will be raining this week, so I will be moving it into the barn in the next couple days where I can do some more in-depth work.
Thank you for your replies, your wisdom is much appreciated.
 

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Jan 16, 2021
4
O’Day 20 garaged
Also what size access hole could I get away with cutting in the cabin subfloor? I’d prefer a smaller cut than larger or even a hole saw if I can find a good size blade. Thanks.
 
Jul 30, 2019
216
Seaward 25 777 Fort St. James
I am going to give my best guesses, but you may get better advice from others with more experience:

On the conditions in the bilge, I think you will just need to dry out thoroughly. Any through-hulls will need to be checked for condition.

On the lower rudder gudgeon, it certainly looks as if it has had major trauma in the past, possibly from the rudder running into an immovable object? You might well be able to get away with grinding back the gel coat and reapplying it. The gel coat crazing does not necessarily mean that the glass underneath has been compromised. My hull has a lot of crazing, but it is just superficial. I hope you are skinny and agile, because you should really remove the lower gudgeon, which will mean pretty much getting into the starboard lazarette to access the nuts and have a second person on the screw heads. With the gudgeon off, you can poke around in the bolt holes with something sharp to assess the core condition. If it is rotten you will need to think about cutting a bigger hole and rebuilding that portion of the transom, getting rid of all rot. Eventually, once all is sound, you should bed the gudgeon on butyl tape.

What kind of shape is the rudder and lower pintle in?

Cabin sole: I would cut a decent sized hole, then back the edges with ply pieces and have a little hatch slotting in there, flush with the sole, to give you permanent access. If not already there, that is the best place to put the bilge pump. My sole has just such a hatch, and then a good quality outdoor-type carpet is laid over the whole floor. Looks good.
 
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Jul 30, 2019
216
Seaward 25 777 Fort St. James
PS. I am just speculating on what you will find with the gudgeon removed. I have read that the hull is solid glass, but somewhere I seem to recall that the transom is cored. It may not be, in which case just restoring the gel coat and rebedding the gudgeon will do the job. You will need to remove the gudgeon though, almost certainly.
 
Sep 24, 2018
2,588
O'Day 25 Chicago
A few little tips
  • You can tilt the boat with the trailer tongue jack to force the water towards the front or back of the boat
  • You can use a shop vac to suck up water from hard to reach places
  • If you need to stick your hand in the soon to be created access hole, put some tape on the edge so it doesn't irritate your skin
  • My 25 is cored around the gudgeons. I'd assume yours is as well