Yeah, were we to lose all out of state cruisers the impact on the economy would only be noticed by those marinas and a few other businesses along the ICW and the Keys that generate some income off of these folks.
Most Floridians would neither care or notice so it would be a pretty empty threat.
Epoxy and good barrier coat to seal it up before bottom paint. Following the minimum recoat instructions will give a good bond between paints.
The West System site has guides on fixing just about everything fiberglass.
The professionals in our area say "build with poly and fix with epoxy"...
Big difference between the old style alcohol stove and todays. Only fire I've ever had on a boat in about 30 years of sailing was a pressurized stove. It now resides in Davy Jones locker!
The Origo I have burns almost as hot as propane and doesn't stink. May be your fuel.
That model is an Out Island and is very roomy for the length. Single guy would be ok, tougher on a couple and not a lot of room for toys.
Out Islands have as much interior volume as larger boats:
Re: Active cruisers needed to take FL anchoring survey this
I took the survey some time back.
As a long time resident I think that limited statewide regulations that can be adjusted to meet the county needs are the way to go. Anyone that has been in South Florida and other parts of the state...
You might be able to find (to verify) the HIN written in permanent marker inside (I think) starboard cockpit locker and/or the anchor locker.
As for deciphering the number, I suggest contacting Bob Horan at http://morgan24site.com.istemp.com/
he knows a lot about these old...
A keel, regardless of style, provides lateral resistance to limit the boat being blown sideways.
Keep it all the way down for tacking ( sailing into the wind) and up when running (downwind sailing).
For reaching (sailing with the wind to the side) it can be adjusted to help balance the boat.
At $20+/board foot teak has become an extravagance. If you want to stay with wood you might check out sapele. Matches pretty well, similar density, rot resistant and won't break the bank.
There are many PVC alternatives that are colored and as many have pointed out, require little if any...
I researched my options before replacing all my trim with AZEK (100% PVC) and what I read (early 2010) was there were class action lawsuits against Trex and another manufacturers due to the "composite" part being pulp wood and prone to mildew, rot and sometimes breakage. I wouldn't use a...
I made plugs with a regular plug cutter like Kirk mentioned. First I ripped the scrap to the thickness I wanted and glued them in with a fab of silicon.
Another Morgan 24 guy just through bolted without plugs and it's much simpler and looks fine. If I do this again that's probably what I'll do.
I replaced all my trim with 100% PVC AZEK deck lumber.
I had researched the options and found that the "composites" used pulp wood which would mildew and rot, sometimes causing failure.
Had to order the AZEK from a local deck lumber store and paid about $180, including shipping for enough to...
Anchor, chain, line and a big ball of clay! Uugghh!
Know what you mean, I'm the oldest guy on my team and the 3rd oldest at our work site. When the other guys are hitting the bar, I'm soaking in the tub!
Are you using chain as chaff protection and/or to reduce scope?
I ask because I anchor in sand and shallow water and don't use chain. My Lewmar Bruce grabs and hold with 7-10 to 1 and I keep an eye on rode wear.
Danforth type anchor? Many others offer quicker set, re-set and better holding at...
When the water next to my dock dropped too much I did something similar on my GS41with bow and stern lines threaded through heavy wall PVC pipe. IIRC it was 2".
Worked well for keeping the boat out a bit and spring lines kept it in position fore and aft.