Help replacing Raw Water Pump on a Yanmar 4JH4-TE

Mar 8, 2019
9
Beneteau Beneteau 49 Newport Beach
My raw water pump is leaking and I want to replace it, but it looks like I might need to remove a motor mount to get to it. I can get to the bolts, but I don't think I can remove the 2 lower ones because the motor mount is in the way.

This is on a 2007 Beneteau 49 Sailboat.

Thanks for the help.
 

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Feb 21, 2013
4,638
Hunter 46 Point Richmond, CA
This is a long shot.............when I replaced the warter pump on my Hunter 386 Yanmar 3JH4E I had to disconnect the transmission, disconnect the engine from the forward engine mount and jack it up and rotate the alternator to get access to the water pump then reverse the process.
 

RitSim

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Jan 29, 2018
409
Beneteau 411 Branford
It looks to me from your pics that you would have sufficient room to remove the lower bolts. In all probability, the four bolts are the same so removing one of the top bolts will give you more information. If necessary, remove the motor mount top nut to get more room for tools. Keep the mount lower nut exactly where it is (mark the position). The pump normally can be rebuilt (change oil and water seal, possibly shaft, definitely impeller) unless there is other internal pump damage.
 
Jan 24, 2013
37
Beneteau 49 Norfolk
I have not replaced mine (yet), but on another forum, a B49 owner described placing a motorcycle jack under the engine for support, then removing the motor mount to provide access to the water pump. That was successful. Other users removed the mount without the support and also reported success. I think I would opt for the jack.
 
Jun 22, 2012
28
Hunter 380 Seattle
I had similar issues on the Yanmar 3JH3E on my 2001 H380. The pump's lower starboard bolt backs out into the engine mount, necessitating removal of the mount.
After removing the engine cover/ladder (pull the gas-strut first), I supported the engine with a ratcheting strap off the boom. No need to actually lift the engine, just support it. In fact, I probably didn't need to support the engine, given the engine is still supported by the other 3 mounts. I pulled the alternator, just for access, but probably don't have to. I barely loosened the big (15/16") upper-engine mount nut, then removed the lag bolts (14mm) holding the lower mount to the hull. This allowed me to rotate the lower part of the mount enough to access the 14mm bolts attaching the upper engine mount arm to the engine. Once the engine mount is off it was all lickety-split easy. The pump comes off with 12mm socket; expect a tablespoon of engine oil to dribble out. Prep the gasket surface, new pump on, hoses on, seacock open, alternator on, go sail.
Remember before all this, to close your seawater intake, label your alternator wires, and have a rag handy. Don't adjust the lower nut on the mount that the engine actually rests on; it is set to align the engine with the transmission/prop shaft.
 

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Mar 8, 2019
9
Beneteau Beneteau 49 Newport Beach
Thank you joelm100. When you removed the lower engine mount bolt to swing the mount out of the way, did the nut stay fastened to the fiberglass mount (IMG_5381.jpg)? It is very difficult if not impossible to access the space under the fiberglass to replace the nut if it would fall off.
 
Jun 22, 2012
28
Hunter 380 Seattle
Thank you joelm100. When you removed the lower engine mount bolt to swing the mount out of the way, did the nut stay fastened to the fiberglass mount (IMG_5381.jpg)? It is very difficult if not impossible to access the space under the fiberglass to replace the nut if it would fall off.
On the Hunter 380, the two lag screws attaching the rubberized lower section of the mount to the fiberglass hull remove pretty easily. The large nut between the upper and lower portions of the mount barely gets loosened to allow rotation of that lower section. Then I was able to access the bolts that attach the upper section of the mount to the actual engine. Then I removed the engine mount as a whole unit. I didn't separate the lower portion from the upper. It was a little cramped but very do-able. If the bolt fell it would drop into the engine bilge where I could have grabbed it.
 
Jun 22, 2012
28
Hunter 380 Seattle
Thank you joelm100. When you removed the lower engine mount bolt to swing the mount out of the way, did the nut stay fastened to the fiberglass mount (IMG_5381.jpg)? It is very difficult if not impossible to access the space under the fiberglass to replace the nut if it would fall off.

After re-reading your question I bet you are talking about the lag-screws. There was no nut on the back side, only a 2 1/2" long lag screw.
 
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