Raymarine Evolution Wheel Pilot Install

Dec 21, 2020
82
Catalina 310 Lake Hefner
That’s the beauty of the SeaTalkng network. You only need one backbone cable run up the pedestal guard. Connect your devices to the one backbone cable using 5 way and T connectors.
If you use the iTC5 you no longer need the transducer wires going up the pedestal. You‘re down to needing just two cables run up the p guard. Power and backbone.

ie: I have my chart plotter, two i70S displays and P70 display at the top of my pedestal guard. All are connected to the SeaTalkng network using one backbone cable run up the pedestal guard.
So I guess the SeatalkNG five point buss is inside the pedestal pod. I have a 1’ spur cable for the P70. Makes sense what you say. That was a really helpful comment. While I have it all apart, it makes sense to get the itc5 and some more T connectors.
need an engineering degree and a circuit diagram for this!
 
Oct 22, 2014
20,989
CAL 35 Cruiser #21 moored EVERETT WA
Does it help describe what you are trying to accomplish?
 
Nov 16, 2012
1,037
Catalina 310, 2000, #31 31 Santa Cruz
Like the plotter mounted on top of the pod a lot. Looks great. To start, I’m going to try going without the speedo. I have read the P70 can display speed info. Eventually, I will probably interface the wheel pilot with the ST 60 wind and depth but not now. Have a lot of other items on the to do list.
The p70 will display speed, but if you remove the ST-60 speed display you won’t have any speed data to display. You will need either a new ”smart” paddle wheel, or the iTC-5.

Having the wind data available to the AP will let you follow a fixed wind angle.

The good news is that there are plenty of options available. Limited only by your wallet and imagination!
 

Ward H

.
Nov 7, 2011
3,645
Catalina 30 Mk II Barnegat, NJ
Here is a diagram I made when planning my boats instrument system. I believe you can connect your remaining display via a SeaTalk to SeaTalkng converter. Much cheaper than another i70S but two out of three of my old instruments were not working so I added a 2nd i70S to fill that third spot.
By going with a Raymarine SeaTalkng network, the backbone cables and spur cables are color coded making install much simpler than a non proprietary NMEA 2000 network. And some of the cables and connectors come with your EV100 kit.
Sun Dog RM SeatalkNG.jpg
 
Dec 21, 2020
82
Catalina 310 Lake Hefner
Here is a diagram I made when planning my boats instrument system. I believe you can connect your remaining display via a SeaTalk to SeaTalkng converter. Much cheaper than another i70S but two out of three of my old instruments were not working so I added a 2nd i70S to fill that third spot.
By going with a Raymarine SeaTalkng network, the backbone cables and spur cables are color coded making install much simpler than a non proprietary NMEA 2000 network. And some of the cables and connectors come with your EV100 kit.
View attachment 195067
Ward:

This is fabulous information! I started a diagram with a spiral notebook and some estimates of what goes where. But this is heads and shoulders above what I can do. I've already violated your copyright and took a screen shot to print out!

The only difference in what I need to do is to interface an ONWA KP AIS/Chartplotter. I bought the ONWA because it was the only chart plotter that had an integrated AIS B transceiver in it. It only outputs nema 0183 so I may need the yacht designs nema 0183 to seatalkng converter. It's $150 but solves the problem of interfacing the ONWA.

This is fun stuff!

Thanks so much for the helpful diagram my friend. Happy sailing.
 
Dec 21, 2020
82
Catalina 310 Lake Hefner
Ward:

This is fabulous information! I started a diagram with a spiral notebook and some estimates of what goes where. But this is heads and shoulders above what I can do. I've already violated your copyright and took a screen shot to print out!

The only difference in what I need to do is to interface an ONWA KP AIS/Chartplotter. I bought the ONWA because it was the only chart plotter that had an integrated AIS B transceiver in it. It only outputs nema 0183 so I may need the yacht designs nema 0183 to seatalkng converter. It's $150 but solves the problem of interfacing the ONWA.

This is fun stuff!

Thanks so much for the helpful diagram my friend. Happy sailing.
An update:
Ordered another 15’ backbone cable and a Seatalk to SeatalkNG buss. The only legacy Seatalk instrument I would like to interface is the Wind ST60.
As for where to mount the heading sensor/Space Ship: the hardest course for an AP RO steer is with following or quartering seas. A sensor mounted aft and higher will swing through the widest arc and therefore have the most corrections as input. While the boat with the sensor mounted in the bilge as high as possible is the favorable spot, these sensors cost $500. I’m not willing to put mine there. So, just ahead of the mast between the lower drawers under the aft end of the forward berth is where she’s going.
Hopefully, if water rises above the floor boards, I’ll notice in time to take action. If not, well I’ve got bigger problems than a $500 sensor. Should be installed by weeks end.
 
Oct 22, 2014
20,989
CAL 35 Cruiser #21 moored EVERETT WA
Sounds like you have thought through the options and chosen wisely.
 
Dec 21, 2020
82
Catalina 310 Lake Hefner
Sounds like you have thought through the options and chosen wisely.
Without your comments and those of others on this forum, the choices are not as well thought out. So regardless of whether or not anyone uses my or other opinions, we can all feel more confident we have made the best choice for our boat, our situation and our intended purpose. So, thanks for the input!
 
Nov 16, 2012
1,037
Catalina 310, 2000, #31 31 Santa Cruz
An update:
Ordered another 15’ backbone cable and a Seatalk to SeatalkNG buss. The only legacy Seatalk instrument I would like to interface is the Wind ST60.
As for where to mount the heading sensor/Space Ship: the hardest course for an AP RO steer is with following or quartering seas. A sensor mounted aft and higher will swing through the widest arc and therefore have the most corrections as input. While the boat with the sensor mounted in the bilge as high as possible is the favorable spot, these sensors cost $500. I’m not willing to put mine there. So, just ahead of the mast between the lower drawers under the aft end of the forward berth is where she’s going.
Hopefully, if water rises above the floor boards, I’ll notice in time to take action. If not, well I’ve got bigger problems than a $500 sensor. Should be installed by weeks end.
If you’re talking about the EV-1 compass you need to reread the installation manual for it. There’s nothing in there that implies having the sensor mounted high in the bilge is the “favorable” spot.
 
Dec 21, 2020
82
Catalina 310 Lake Hefner
If you’re talking about the EV-1 compass you need to reread the installation manual for it. There’s nothing in there that implies having the sensor mounted high in the bilge is the “favorable” spot.
Favorable spot is my opinion. You can mount it anywhere you want. But if it’s swinging in a big arc, it makes sense to me that if you reduce the amplitude of the corrections it is sending to the computer, it might just steer a straighter course and use less power. I ended up mounting the sensor just above the water tank under the forward berth as there wasn’t enough space low between the cabinets. Mounted the computer behind the breaker panel and just connected the Seatalk 1 to SeatalkNG P 70 this morning. Used the Seatalk1 network power. Everything is powering up and waiting on the motor connection to the computer and running backbone to computer. Found soaping up the backbone made pushing it up from the bottom easier.
 

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Aug 29, 2016
131
Catalina 2004 310 (Hull #250) BC
I recently mounted the Garmin Steadycast heading sensor, which I believe may be a similar device as the Raymarine device.
I called the technical team at Garmin prior to mounting, and they gave some good tips (some of which, of course, were not in the instruction manual):
1. Mount it at waterline (it has an IPX rating 7)
2. Mount it ideally in the centre of the beam width of the boat
3. Mount it forward of the pivot point of the boat. Pivot point is usually just behind the mast position.
4. Keep it away from any ferrous materials or other compasses by at least 3 feet.
Hope that helps! Good luck.
 
Last edited:
Dec 21, 2020
82
Catalina 310 Lake Hefner
I recently mounted the Garmin Steadycast heading sensor, which I believe may be a similar device as the Raymarine device.
I called the technical team at Garmin prior to mounting, and they gave some good tips (some of which, of course, were not in the instruction manual):
1. Mount it at waterline (it has an IPX rating 7)
2. Mount it ideally in the centre of the beam width of the boat
3. Mount it just forward of the pivot point of the boat, which they said is usually just behind the mast position.
4. Keep it away from any ferrous materials or other compasses by at least 3 feet.
Hope that helps! Good luck.
Hi Bernie. I concur with Garmin’s analysis hence my comment about high in the bilge just behind the mast being the area with the least movement. Where I have it under the forward berth is about 18” above the waterline and 3’ fore the mast. I can always move it aft and into the upper bilge if I have to as it just in screws. Thanks for the info!
 
Apr 5, 2009
2,774
Catalina '88 C30 tr/bs Oak Harbor, WA
I installed mine on my C30 last week and put everything behind the draw cabinette to port of the compainionway. It was a tight fit but so far everything seems to be working.
 

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Dec 21, 2020
82
Catalina 310 Lake Hefner
I installed mine on my C30 last week and put everything behind the draw cabinette to port of the compainionway. It was a tight fit but so far everything seems to be working.
Thanks for posting. The more information on different configurations and sea states the better choices people can make in the future. My Sea State data will be limited to those on a 5 sq mile lake in central Oklahoma.
 

Ward H

.
Nov 7, 2011
3,645
Catalina 30 Mk II Barnegat, NJ
Here's a photo of my installation. I mounted everything on plywood, then mounted on the port bulkhead of the quarter berth. 5-6 degree magnetic deviation. After a few months I moved the EV1 to inside the forward bench seat of the u shaped dinette, mounted right next to the compression post. This put it lower and within 12" of centerline. 1 degree magnetic deviation. That didn't seem to improve the AP tracking at all.
What greatly improved the tracking was resetting the vessel type to............. Sail Catamaran. Changing to this vessel type made a huge difference in tracking performance.

IMG_3842.jpeg
 
Dec 21, 2020
82
Catalina 310 Lake Hefner
Here's a photo of my installation. I mounted everything on plywood, then mounted on the port bulkhead of the quarter berth. 5-6 degree magnetic deviation. After a few months I moved the EV1 to inside the forward bench seat of the u shaped dinette, mounted right next to the compression post. This put it lower and within 12" of centerline. 1 degree magnetic deviation. That didn't seem to improve the AP tracking at all.
What greatly improved the tracking was resetting the vessel type to............. Sail Catamaran. Changing to this vessel type made a huge difference in tracking performance.

View attachment 195421
I wish you would have posted sooner! I like that spot a lot. I have not set up the p70 yet so I will set her up to Sail Catamaran and leave everything where it is for now.
What Hardover time and other settings were important?
 
Oct 22, 2014
20,989
CAL 35 Cruiser #21 moored EVERETT WA
An important note.

The round sensor rotates in the fitting used to attach the unit to the boat. The orientation applies to the round sensor. Once you attach the unit to the boat, you then turn the sensor so that the arrow aligns along the line of the keel.
 
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