Sail Rigging Diagrams?

Aug 21, 2020
13
Hunter 23.5 Clinton, CT
Hello, I recently purchased a 1993 Hunter 23.5 sailboat. The boom and sail was stored in the boat so I had to put those up myself, I attached the boom to the mast using the bracket and pin found on the mast. I then took the fixed line attached to the top of the mast and ran it through the center roller at the far end of the boom and tied it back upon itself (the manual was not very clear on how this was to be attached). I attached the top of the sail via a pin through a u bolt at the end of the halyard, raised the sail inserting the pins into the track in the mast. After this I dropped the sail and tied the bottom of the sail to the line coming out of the boom, pulled it and fed the pin and bottom of the sail into the track on the boom. This leaves me with the tack I believe it's called having no attachment point...how is this affixed on the boat? The manual is no help on this and I've spent hours looking for videos or resources online. I tried looking at other boats in the marina but they seem to have clips where the mast and boom meet that I don't. Am I missing pieces? Does anyone have pictures they could share?

I can post some pictures of what I've done tomorrow in the event it helps rectify any error I have made.

Thanks in advance for any help, truly appreciated!
 
Feb 21, 2013
4,638
Hunter 46 Point Richmond, CA
Welcome to the forum and congratulations on your new sailboat!!

Photos of what rigging hardware you have at the mast and on the cabin top, and gunnels would help to provide guidance.
1598040274978.png
 
Aug 21, 2020
13
Hunter 23.5 Clinton, CT
Will definitely post up relevant pictures when I go back down tomorrow, wish I had the foresight to snap a few earlier.
 
Jan 1, 2006
7,040
Slickcraft 26 Sailfish
So your problem is the lack of a tack fitting on the boom? It attaches somehow. Tack fittings are usually part of the boom. Maybe welded on. There isn't two dog ears on the front topside of the boom? If there is there should be holes on either side that can accept a clevis pin which goes through the sail tack cringle in the middle. The holes don't have to be the same size and one may be threaded. I don't think the fitting would be on the mast - at least I don't think I've ever seen that. I have seen almost any manor of attachment on different boats including bolts. There isn't one way. Sometimes the clevis pins are custom and if they go overboard the owner has to innovate. We'll look forward to the pics.
 
Aug 21, 2020
13
Hunter 23.5 Clinton, CT
20200822_173839.jpg

Yes, above you can see the tack and next to it the boom, I dont see any hardware or spot to affix the sail, any thoughts? I have the following holding the top of the sail:
20200822_173806.jpg

That seems correct, finally the end of the boom I fastened the only way I saw possible, doubt it is correct but it holds and the manual was not clear or detailed:
20200822_173649.jpg

Truly appreciate any guidance, I've been through the manual so many times and cannot figure this out...
 
Jul 7, 2004
8,402
Hunter 30T Cheney, KS
It looks like your boat may use a shackle like the one at the head of the sail
 
Aug 21, 2020
13
Hunter 23.5 Clinton, CT
In looking at the diagrams I am thinking my boom should be using the lower hole on the mast, which would reduce stress and perhaps I am missing a pin or shackle which would hold the tack to the hole I am currently using to hold the boom? Not sure if the boom has a deep enough gap to allow this configuration, will have to test tomorrow. If that ends up being the solution then I am still wondering if anyone knows the proper way for the boom topping lift to be affixed to the other end of the boom....the rope contraption I inherited cannot be right but I have no idea what it should look like.

So badly wish there was a similar boat nearby that I could look at the rigging
 
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Joe

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Jun 1, 2004
7,999
Catalina 27 Mission Bay, San Diego
Sail sfbay's diagram pretty much gives you all you need.
1. There are usually 2 holes in the headboard(that's the plate at the top of the sail where you afix the halyard.)One hole for the halyard connection, the other for the topmost slider/slug. There's enough room to add another slide, you can attach it with a couple wraps of cord, or maybe even find a metal or plastic shackle that'll fit. I'd just tie it on rather than spend a lot of time fitting the shackle.
2. Regarding the mainsail's forward boom connection there are usually two cringles (holes with grommets) pretty close together, the lower one is for the attachment to the boom fitting. Since I don't see a ramshead(that's what they call the hook style attachment) no big deal. Again, you can go find a single or twin hook and a fastener, or a big clevis pin.... but if it were me... I'd just tie it on the same way you'll do with the mast slider.. you can even use more of the same line.. just wrap it around 3 or 4 times and tie a slip knot. Go sailing. Okay, the upper cringle, if you have one, is for the cunningham. I leave it to you to research that... but a cunningham is a very useful sail adjustment tool. Instead of using the halyard to control tension on the main, the cunningham takes it over.. tensioning downward rather than up with the halyard.

There will be a 3rd cringle a couple feet higher, that will be at matching height with a cringle on the leech. This is your 1st reef point. Many boats will only have 2nd, even 3rd set of reef points... if yours does.... that's cool...butl you'll learn about that later... if not... no worries.

3. This brings us to your boom end set up. If you examine sf bay's illustration.. there are three sheaves, you'll see one for the outhaul's control line. one for the leech reef point, and one for the "adjustable" topping lift. This set up is pretty handy. What you'll need to do is get rid of that swollen rag of line you have now, and get some 1/4" line long enough to connect the static line topping lift, down through the block at the end then all the way forward where the outhaul emerges. Usually there's some kind of built in cleat at the front end, but it might be more convenient to route the line aft to a simple cleat mounted on the coach roof so you can control it from the cockpit. Again, closely inspect the diagram. Others will be happy to explain the function of the topping lift.

Seems like you've figured out the outhaul, that is a super important sail adjustment, it usually has some purchase configuration hidden inside, so make sure it works.

Finally. the reefing line should be set up per the diagram. It will exit the front of the boom as noted before. You'll have one line for the leech (back) and one for the luff (front). To set up the mast end you'll want to extend a line from one side of the mast, up through the reef cringle, then back down to fastening point on the other side of the mast... a simple horn cleat will work fine... this will give you 2:1 purchase to get the luff nice and tight when you reef. Look for a small eye strap a foot or so below the boom on the side of the mast... the cleat would be on the opposite side.
Okay, that's my two cents. Good luck, have fun.
 
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Aug 21, 2020
13
Hunter 23.5 Clinton, CT
Thanks, I will take a look when I head down today and see what I can do. Admittedly I had assumed that my rigging would be set up on the boat and I could simply take notes so this has been a journey...previous owner I was told basically used as a motorboat.
 
Jan 1, 2006
7,040
Slickcraft 26 Sailfish
Yeah, a long shackle or a lashing. It looks like there was a long shackle there from the scratches on the gooseneck. Another way to locate the tack is to raise the sail all the way up in light wind. Where does the tack cringle land? Chances are the sail was built custom so where the tack is, is where it's supposed to be.
Regarding your topping lift, I was wondering why it is so short. I think it's short so that the boom can be lifted over your Bimini. To sail with the bimini up the boom has to be over it. Maybe that'll work with sail shape maybe not. Usually you would want to sail with the topping life SLACK and let the leach of the sail determine the height of the boom. So whatever arrangement you make to attach the topping lift to the boom, it has to be adjustable. Maybe you can put a small block on one side of the boom and run a line from that eye, through the block and into a cleat - probably a small jam cleat with an eye to retain the line. You'll have a dangling line to deal with when the boom is in up position.
On my Hunter 356 the topping lift wasn't fixed. It went through a sheave at the top of the mast and down to a cleat on the outside of the mast. You could adjust it there. I think it was internal so you would need an exit box. That would likely be above your head so you can give it a good yank. That's a winter project because you would likely need to drop the mast.
Hoist the main and take it out in light air. I'd be interested in how that boom/bimini relationship goes. Maybe it looks like more of a problem in the picture than it is.
 
Aug 21, 2020
13
Hunter 23.5 Clinton, CT
Thank you, yes I am fairly certain the bimini will have to be down while sailing, looks to be an 'at anchor's type as it would not only interfere from a height standpoint with the boom but also with how far forward it extends: beyond the ropes that tie down from the boom to keep it from swinging.
 
Apr 27, 2010
1,236
Hunter 23 Lake Wallenpaupack
The stock method of attaching the topping lift (same as on my H23) by routing it through the boom up to and through the forward sheave and the jam cleat below the sheave has a disadvantage - when you remove the boom you have to pull the line out of the boom, and then re-thread it before you replace the boom. There is an improvement noted somewhere (it may be in the H23 section) that improves this.

You can attach a thin line or stainless wire to the masthead fitting used for the topping lift that ends about 3 ft above the boom end when it is horizontal. Use a thimble or knot such as a bowline to attach a small swivel block to the lower end of this topping lift. Run a low stretch line (approx 1/4 inch diam) by tying one end to the thin "bar" behind the sheaves at the aft end of the boom (or use a small shackle), running it up to and through the swivel block, back down to the sheave for the topping lift (port side sheave according to the diagram), through the boom and out the forward sheave. You still have to go forward to adjust the topping lift (but no need to install new hardware on the boom), plus it gives you 2 to 1 mechanical advantage. The topping lift itself can stay attached to the masthead. You untie or unshackle the working line from the "bar" and pull it out of the swivel block to remove the boom, but leave it threaded inside the boom; no need to re-thread it through the boom.

I used an electrical fishing wire to initially get that line through the boom. The 23.5 probably does not have any internal blocks in the boom to get in the way; at least, the 23 does not.
 
Aug 21, 2020
13
Hunter 23.5 Clinton, CT
The stock method of attaching the topping lift (same as on my H23) by routing it through the boom up to and through the forward sheave and the jam cleat below the sheave has a disadvantage - when you remove the boom you have to pull the line out of the boom, and then re-thread it before you replace the boom. There is an improvement noted somewhere (it may be in the H23 section) that improves this.

You can attach a thin line or stainless wire to the masthead fitting used for the topping lift that ends about 3 ft above the boom end when it is horizontal. Use a thimble or knot such as a bowline to attach a small swivel block to the lower end of this topping lift. Run a low stretch line (approx 1/4 inch diam) by tying one end to the thin "bar" behind the sheaves at the aft end of the boom (or use a small shackle), running it up to and through the swivel block, back down to the sheave for the topping lift (port side sheave according to the diagram), through the boom and out the forward sheave. You still have to go forward to adjust the topping lift (but no need to install new hardware on the boom), plus it gives you 2 to 1 mechanical advantage. The topping lift itself can stay attached to the masthead. You untie or unshackle the working line from the "bar" and pull it out of the swivel block to remove the boom, but leave it threaded inside the boom; no need to re-thread it through the boom.

I used an electrical fishing wire to initially get that line through the boom. The 23.5 probably does not have any internal blocks in the boom to get in the way; at least, the 23 does not.
Thanks, I like the idea and I have to buy parts anyway since all I had was that ratty rope. I probably could get another one of those blocks flush with the deck to run it back so it is reachable.
 
Apr 27, 2010
1,236
Hunter 23 Lake Wallenpaupack
You could use a turning block (or a swivel block attached to the mast tabernacle if it has holes), but then you'd need a way to cleat the line or use a rope clutch on the cabin roof somewhere near the aft end (and you don't need or want a heavy line, so a clutch may not work), so it was accessible from the cockpit. I only adjust my topping lift twice per outing. Once to slack it some once the sail is up, and once to tighten it before lowering the sail. It isn't hat big of a deal to go forward twice, to me.
 
Aug 12, 2018
163
Hunter 26 Carter Lake, Colorado
To the original poster,

You may already have sorted out your gooseneck, but in case you could still use some photos, I did finally get some of the gooseneck on my Hunter 26, which appears to be very similar, though not identical, to yours.

In my photos, the mainsail happened to be reefed, so you can see how the tack is shackled as well as how the reef point is hooked. Not all reef points are set up with a loop like this one is, a cringle (grommet) is more typical.

One thing I noticed in your original photo is that the gooseneck bracket riveted to your mast appears to be in two pieces, with the swivel captive between them. Mine is one piece and the swivel pin is removable. In your case, it looks like you would have to remove either the upper or lower part of the mast bracket if for any reason you needed to remove the swivel. Those rivets aren't too hard to drill out and install.

It also looks to me in your photo like either that swivel or the holes in the bracket might be worn, the swivel seems to have sagged in towards the mast on its bottom pin. Might want to take close look at that to confirm if it fits as designed and keep an eye on it (marked up photo attached).
 

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Jun 25, 2004
1,108
Corsair F24 Mk1 003 San Francisco Bay, CA
The OP, @Pkeller, has a Zspar with a rather atypical gooseneck bracket and toggle.

There are two half-brackets attached to the mast
Gooseneck Bracket Half, Small: Z-1061X:
Unique cast aluminum Gooseneck Bracket is used in pairs with Z-1188X Gooseneck Toggle. Used on Z170, Z190, Z230, Z265, Z301, Z320 and other mast sections, Bracket Half measures 2 5/8" (67mm) high x 1 5/8" (42mm) wide, with 15mm recess for pin (lug). Fastens to mast with (4) 1/4" (6mm) rivets on 45mm (1 3/4") vertical centers. As used on Beneteau First 285, O'Day 272,and others. CK**
1599457921750.png

The toggle has lugs rather than a vertical pin.

Old-style Gooseneck Toggle w/ Integral Lugs, Small: Z-1188X:
Old-style Gooseneck Toggle with integral 12mm lugs (top and bottom) which act as a vertical pin. Used with 16mm OD plastic bushings (Z-1766) and (2) Z-1061X Gooseneck Brackets. Cast Aluminum Toggle is 23/32" (18.5mm) wide with 10mm hole for horizontal pin, and features center hole for use with Z-1188RH double Reef Hook. Toggle (with lugs) measures (maximum) 2 7/8" (73mm) vertical x 2 3/4" (68mm) horizontal. Used with Mast Sections through Z320 with Z160 and Z204 Booms. As used on Beneteau First 285, O'Day 272,and others. CK**
1599457938570.png

The lugs need plastic bushings.

Gooseneck Toggle Bushing - 16mm OD: Z-1766:
Gooseneck Toggle Bushing is used (2 ea.) with Z-1188Gooseneck Toggles. Plastic Bushing is 16mm OD x 12mm ID x 12mm long.
When a bushing breaks, the toggle loses the vertical alignment. as shown by @twistedskipper 's picture.
1599458000075.png


The reefing horn goes into the larger hole in the center of the toggle
Double Reef Hook - 8mm: Z-1188RH:
SS Double Reef Hook for use with Gooseneck Toggles listed above. Reef Hook is formed from 8mm rod and measures (maximum) 4 1/8" (105mm) wide x 3 1/8" (80mm) high. Specially formed Reef Hook slides into center hole of Toggle, or Toggle slot and is held in place by vertical Toggle Pin.
1599458072581.png


I couldn't find a tack pin for this assembly, so there are two posslible solutions. a) put a long shackle through the top of the upper half bracket. b) buildthe sail with a "floating tack" which consists of a heavy duty slide at the tack without a tack ring/grommet. The cunningham is used to control the vertical position of the tack.

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

You can find all these these parts at www.Rigrite.com . RigRite is my go-to place for parts for old spars parts. But, when parts aren't available or old parts are all badly worn, I suggest replacing the old goosenecks with compatible ones of more recent vintage.

Inspect the brackets and toggle carefully for cracks and corrosion. They are old.
 
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Aug 21, 2020
13
Hunter 23.5 Clinton, CT
Thanks all, really appreciate all the insight!

Struggling to get the new rams head hook I bought fully into the hole it belongs in as it gets stuck sideways and there doesn't appear to be enough room to rotate it all the way thru, however I am working on it bit by bit.

I've used the imperfect setup I have to sail with my main so I build some experience before summer is over, waiting for a rainy day to make a trip out to west marine for a few parts to make some of the great improvements suggested earlier. At least for now I picked up a new line and re-tied the topping lift off to the boom without the rats nest hanging there; I struggled to feed the line through the boom forward, need a wire or something to feed it with as the rope can only be fed so far by itself before there isn't enough line tension to push it further forward, but it has worked temporarily.
 
Jan 1, 2006
7,040
Slickcraft 26 Sailfish
I've used a plumbers snake or a length of plasticized 1X19 wire to fish lines through the boom. I learned two things in physics class: 1) F=MA and 2) You can't push a rope.
 
Apr 27, 2010
1,236
Hunter 23 Lake Wallenpaupack
Or get a cheap electricians fish tape at a place like Harbor Freight