Rebedding a Winch - Best sealant that can be removed after a few years?

[Dan_Y]

Like other hunter 36 owners (and other models) I just discovered that the Lewmar Ocean ST 40 jib winches cannot be fully serviced without removing them from the boat. They are recessed Into the combing and the gears cannot be removed. Rotating/remounting the winch won’t help. It does not appear they have ever been serviced, but hard to tell.

Knowing the winch has to be removed, is there a good sealant to use under the winch that will be easy to remove at maybe 3-year intervals? Butyl tape? I hope it’s not 5200 holding them now. I’m hoping I can get at the starboard winch nuts thru the instrument panel. Port is accessible they the big locker.
thanks
Dan

 

[Nodak7]

3M 4200. Made to be removed if necessary. DO NOT use the 5200. It's permanent.

 

[jssailem]

Dan, I used Bed-it- tape. No leaks and easily removed. Your looking for a good caulk not an adhesive. Best stuff for boats of all sizes for bedding like winches, stanchions, handrails etc.

Bedding Deck Hardware With Bed-IT Tape - Marine How To

Originally published December 2003 *Moved & Edited September 2017 Bedding With Bed-It Tape 5/20/2022 IMPORTANT UPDATE BED-IT TAPE IS BACK PURCHASE BED-IT TAPE Countersunk/Beveled Hole Over the years,

marinehowto.com

 

[Stu Jackson]

John's right, don't use glue. Of any sort.

 

[Joe]

Polysulfide sealants or the popular butyl tape is fine. Do not use polyurethane or silicone based products. I've used Boat life "life Calk" (polysulphide) for 80% of this type of work... and am pleased. Someday I'll get a roll of butyl tape... Unless you've got a ton of work.. get the smaller squeeze tube instead of the cartridge. Unless you get a killer price.

 

[Dan_Y]

Good thoughts thanks again guys. The parts of the winch I did service looked like they were really packed with grease that was hardening, and it was about 95 degrees when I was servicing it...so I assume it might have been lewmar factory grease from 2008.

BTW, I serviced the winch because the prior weekend the top cap (1) became loose, allowing the feeder arm (3) to wiggle a bit, which freed the two collets (4). We caught the two collets trying to escape! See items 1 - 4 in the attachment.

 

[skunther]

Dan, I used Bed-it- tape. No leaks and easily removed. Your looking for a good caulk not an adhesive. Best stuff for boats of all sizes for bedding like winches, stanchions, handrails etc.

Bedding Deck Hardware With Bed-IT Tape - Marine How To

Originally published December 2003 *Moved & Edited September 2017 Bedding With Bed-It Tape 5/20/2022 IMPORTANT UPDATE BED-IT TAPE IS BACK PURCHASE BED-IT TAPE Countersunk/Beveled Hole Over the years,

marinehowto.com

John, to revive an old thread, would you use butyl tape to bed a windlass? Or better use 3M silicone? The windlass came with a rubber base mat of the same footprint as the windlass, the mounting surface is flat, the mounting plate is steel and plastic, and sits directly over the anchor locker. Really the only reason I'd seal it at all is to prevent water from entering over the gearbox and motor and accelerating corrosion.

 

[jssailem]

I used butyl Bed-It-Tape to mount my windlass.

I cut the holes to be used to penetrate the deck for the chain. I sealed the plywood core with thickened epoxy.

Next there are bolts that penetrate the deck. The holes were oversized. Filled with thickened epoxy. Then drilled to size. This sealed the plywood deck core between the upper and lower layers of fiberglass. Then the upper hole was chamfered. I inserted all the bolts into the windlass. Attend the gasket over the base and bolts.
Wrapped a cone of butyl around the bolts and pushed them into the holes in the deck. While my friend Les held the bolts on deck, I crawled into the anchor locker and tightened all the nuts, drawing the butyl down filling the chamfered bolt holes.

That has worked for me. If I was to use an adhesive caulk it would be 4000UV by 3M.

I prefer butyl. Specifically the stuff sold by MaineSail. Used on Winches, bow roller, cleats, the binnacle guard feet, the chainplates, stanchions, etc. pretty much all hardware attached to the deck.

The bolts secure the item to the deck, the butyl fills all the space between the deck and the bolts including the threads of the bolt. Makes it very difficult for water to get in.

 

[skunther]

Thanks John. Bed It Tape from Mainsail bought via Compass Marine. Will be here Saturday.

https://shop.marinehowto.com/products/bed-it-tape

 

[artboas]

Like other hunter 36 owners (and other models) I just discovered that the Lewmar Ocean ST 40 jib winches cannot be fully serviced without removing them from the boat. They are recessed Into the combing and the gears cannot be removed. Rotating/remounting the winch won’t help. It does not appear they have ever been serviced, but hard to tell.

Knowing the winch has to be removed, is there a good sealant to use under the winch that will be easy to remove at maybe 3-year intervals? Butyl tape? I hope it’s not 5200 holding them now. I’m hoping I can get at the starboard winch nuts thru the instrument panel. Port is accessible they the big locker.
thanks
Dan

Personally, I’d use 3M 4200. The reason people hesitate to use this is because they fear further removal will be impossible.
I have a solution for that.
A very easy way to remove a winch is as follows:
Take a 3/8” line, and tie a bowline large enough to put over the winch
Then, take the other end of the line to a winch on the other side of the cockpit.
With just minimal cranking, the winch will pop off the surface. (Assuming the bolts are removed of course)
The reason I prefer 4200 over bedding tape as it ensures the bolt holes are well sealed. Yes, butyl tape is supposed to have the same capability, but is a 100% sure thing with 4200.

 

[Hayden Watson]

On my C30, I also need to remove the base to clean and lube the gears. When I did it several years ago, I had not yet discuvered Bed-it so I used 4200. to remove the bases, I disasembled both winches and remove all of the base bolts. I then reassembed them without the bolts and ran a line from one winch to the other. I cranked in on one while the line was wrapped and in the tailer on the other. after several clicks, one of the bases popped off. I then bolted that one down and used it to pull the other one free.
They are not bedded with butyl and should come off much easier next time. I have not had any of the items I sealed with bed-it leak (knock wood).

 

[jeepbluetj]

Never ever ever use anything that has the word "Silicone" on the package on a boat. Ever.

Butyl tape for stuff you'd like to remove again. Countersink the holes to get a better blob of butyl in there.

4200 is still plenty grippy to pull off some gelcoat if forced. Cut with a wire works.

Polyurethane/polysulfide sealants can be chemically removed. Search up "DeBondIt." It's expensive, but it works. If you've got all the time in the world, or have already removed the hardware and want to clean the remaining sealant good old denatured alcohol works to soften sealants, but it's slow.

 

[Hayden Watson]

...Polyurethane/polysulfide sealants can be chemically removed. Search up "DeBondIt." It's expensive, but it works...

I think what jeepbluetj was talking about is Marine Formula from DeBond Corp. I use the 4-oz pump because you don't waste much and ahve better control. The statement on the can "This stuff really works" is not a slogan. It is what every user including me says after they have tried it.