Newbie question on rearranging deck hardware, sealing holes, drilling new ones...

Jul 7, 2020
8
Hunter 240 Hefner
Good Morning All,

I've had my 1999 H240 for 2 weeks and I am loving it! I've noticed I don't love the deck hardware configuration which may or may not be original and I'm thinking about switching things around. I've attached pictures of the current starboard and port setups. Is there an old post that might help with the issues below? Thanks all!!

On the starboard side I have a pair of non-matching cam cleats that are difficult to work with sometimes and a clam cleat. The only thing I use any of these for is the Main Halyard which comes down the starboard side and under tension on the winch I have to try to work it into one of the cam cleats which always results in it slipping some and is difficult, espescially alone. The other two cleats are never used unless I was going to raise the swing keel - which I would only do for trailering (not happening much).

On the port side I have a sheet stopper clutch and another clam cleat. I have a furling jib on this boat and never use either of these.

There are separate bilateral cam cleats in better working order for the jib sheets and a tie off cleat for the jib furling line on the port side.

I'd like to move the sheet stopper / clutch over to the starboard side and use that for my main halyard - I think that would be much easier. I might leave one of the cam cleats on the starboard side for the rare raising of the keel using the 2:1 block that is on that side.

On the port side I don't really 'need' any of that hardware but I guess I could put the other cam cleat over there??

In any case - how should I seal old holes in the deck - I've read of using 3m 5200 or 4200 - which is best? Does it matter if I am filling a hole never to be used again or if I am going to "re-use" an old hole for a new purpose. Asthetically I will have some old unused holes - do cover those up should I get a piece of teak wood? stainless steel? where does one usually get a custom cut piece of steel? any sealant under that steel or wood piece? Is there anything I should no about drilling holes for the rearranged hardware other than sealant? Obviously i'm going to try to re-use holes as much as possible.

Thanks again! Look forward to any help or advice!!!

Current PORT side:
IMG_2467.jpg



Current STARBOARD Side:
IMG_2468.jpg
 
May 24, 2004
7,129
CC 30 South Florida
Any exposed wood when drilling holes should be covered with epoxy to seal and prevent water damage. For filling screw holes a small dab will do before applying a filler and gelcoat. allow to dry between steps.
 
Jun 2, 2004
649
Hunter 23.5 Calgary, Canada
A good trick I learned here for drilling new holes is to run the drill backwards. This helps avoid large chunks from chipping off.
 
Feb 21, 2013
4,638
Hunter 46 Point Richmond, CA
Congratulations on your new sailboat!! A photo of your deck with existing hardware might help answer your hardware question.

1. Running rigging hardware: I am sure you will get plenty of advise from the forum on this subject.......my two cents ...........rope clutch in combination with a winch or cam cleat for halyards, reefing lines, outhaul, boom vang, winch for jib sheets, cleat for jib furler line and topping lift, and cam cleat for traveler line.
2. Filling holes: marine tex OR gelcoat and sand using the procedure in this youtube video:
"Repairing holes in Gelcoat":
 
Jun 2, 2004
649
Hunter 23.5 Calgary, Canada
Wow, I had no idea the h240 deck Hardware was so different from my 1995 h 23.5. I've been on a h26, two h 260 and a H 270. These ranged from 1995 to 2002 or maybe 2004. The deck Hardware on those were all similar to mine, so I'd be surprised if your layout is original.

Mine has horn cleats beside the two winches. These are used to tie off the jib sheets. However, I replaced those horn cleats with Spinlock Powercleats. I have the old model ones that are not pxr. I think they are discontinued and the pxr models don't have the same bolt pattern as the old ones, which matched the horn cleat holes perfectly. I think there might be an adapter plate though. I have two clutches on the starboard side that are in line with the winch. Those are for the two halyards, but with my Schaefer Snapfurl I don't use the jib halyard and it just hangs on a horn cleat on the mast. I ran my boom vang through the organizer and through the unused clutch. The only winch I use now is the starboard side for raising the main halyard.

Strange your centerboard has only 2 to 1, not 4 to 1 purchase. I'm on a small 1x7 mile lake, but if I have to motor a long distance I raise the centerboard and get another half a knot or so. The jam cleat is easy and works fine for the uphaul line. When doing that I hang The Bitter End of the uphaul line over the side of the boat. That makes it easily visible and reminds me to put it down again!
 
Jun 2, 2004
649
Hunter 23.5 Calgary, Canada
Wider view photos of both sides showing everything at once including the winches would help. Also one of the mast base. I can't imagine why there is a clutch on the port side.
 
Jul 7, 2020
8
Hunter 240 Hefner
I'll take some wider angle shots this afternoon. The clear coat youtube video above seems pretty reasonable - would alleviate the need to cover old hole sites with stainless or teak - if the hole is completely through the hull (into the access panel inside the cabin) do you fill that entire thing with the clear coat substance or should I use some of the 4200 / 5200 and then cover up the top with the clear coat procedure demonstrated above? Appreciate your help!
 
Jul 7, 2020
8
Hunter 240 Hefner
That should have read: do I FILL the entire thru-hull hole with the gelcoat substance or use some other substance to fill it an then use the gel coat process from the video above to finish it?
 
Feb 21, 2013
4,638
Hunter 46 Point Richmond, CA
Thanks for the photos!! The cam cleat on the starboard and port side and rope clutch on the port side might not be unnecessary? If so, removing them will simplify your deck hardware. Do you have other lines you want to bring back to the cockpit that need hardware. I like a set of rope clutches on each side of the deck to bring halyards, outhaul, vang, furling lines and main sheet through to the cockpit then to either a winch or cam cleat. Then a separate winch on each side of the cabin or on the gunnel for jib sheets and cleat for the jib furler line.

1595800857185.png
 

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Jun 2, 2004
649
Hunter 23.5 Calgary, Canada
Where you have cam cleats for the jib sheets is where I replaced the horn cleats with powercleats. The advantage of these Powercleats is they can be released easily under load since they release by lifting vertically. Not a big deal I suppose if you just had up a bit to reduce the load, but I can tack without leaving the stern rail seat. A flick of the wrist with the jib sheet releases the cleat. I've never needed the winches for jib sheets on this boat.

The boom bang and Main halyard go through the two clutches.

Note the two blocks on the centerboard uphaul giving 4:1 purchase. I can't tell from your photo if you've got one block or two. Note my centerboard is lifted and the uphaul is draped over the side. That's because I'm anchored in three feet of water at the moment lol.
 

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Jun 2, 2004
649
Hunter 23.5 Calgary, Canada
You've got two cam cleats beside the uphaul's jam cleat. That's where I have two clutches that were originally for the main and jib halyards. Really, that's the only difference on your starboard side compared to mine. They are in line with the winch.

The clutch and jam cleat on the port side are still a mystery to me!

If the bolt holes for the cam cleats beside the winches are arranged fore and aft, then maybe originally there were horn cleats there as I had on mine. If they are side to side then probably not?
 
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Joe

.
Jun 1, 2004
7,999
Catalina 27 Mission Bay, San Diego
I've moved deck hardware, winches, cleats etc. many times. Don't sweat it. You should be able to find a 2 part epoxy repair kit at most hardware stores. Some are in an "injector" configuration that automatically mixes the parts when you squeeze it into the hole. I've also found reusable, plastic, syringe injectors at the chandlery.... the tip can be clipped depending on desired flow. JB Weld and Marine-Tex are two common suppliers for epoxy repair items. They make many products... but essentially all you need is the epoxy and a way to inject into the hole. Tape off the bottom of the hole and be prepared to check before it gets rock hard so you can remove any excess without too much sanding. If you have a little gel coat repair kit.. or a small can of epoxy paint.. use that to color the dark brown cured epoxy as you try the impossibility of getting a perfect match.
I'm not keen on using adhesives like 4200/5200 for this kind of thing. Epoxy filler and touch up paint will do it.
 
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Jun 8, 2004
10,024
-na -NA Anywhere USA
Where there are raised areas or flat smooth areas blocks, winches, cleats are attached, you will find aluminum plates encapsulated in the fiberglass which are drilled and tapped. You can relocate gear sometimes using existing holes. If can be covered up, replace with oval flat head bolts of course caulked. Never use 5200 here.

@Rick Macdonald thank you for your contribution here