NotCook
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- Dec 29, 2008
- 805
Good people! Jim helped us out a lot when we were on Lake Erie.Jeff from Great Lakes Diesel will becoming out tomorrow.
Good people! Jim helped us out a lot when we were on Lake Erie.Jeff from Great Lakes Diesel will becoming out tomorrow.
Wow, why did it cost $700 to rebuild a starter? And 16 years ago! One of the best shops in my area does it for about $100.Neutral lockout switch in shift lever? Jiggle it back and forth slowly while you have the key turned, to see if it makes a difference. We wasted $700 having our starter rebuilt about 16 years ago, only to find out that our neutral switch was mid-adjusted.
Would that make the panel not light up?Neutral lockout switch in shift lever? Jiggle it back and forth slowly while you have the key turned, to see if it makes a difference. We wasted $700 having our starter rebuilt about 16 years ago, only to find out that our neutral switch was mid-adjusted.
I see the problem is already solved.Wow, why did it cost $700 to rebuild a starter? And 16 years ago! One of the best shops in my area does it for about $100.
Too bad there's no neutral lamp as on a motorcycle, so you can see if the switch is working.
Yes, good point. I see the problem was found to be a bad crimp. That makes more sense. I was overlooking that part.Would that make the panel not light up?
Well, I can see the labor of taking it out and putting it back, plus a rebuild, adding up to that. My starter is a bitch to remove and replace. One bolt you can only get like 1/6th of a turn on it at a time, and it's a long, fine thread bolt.I see the problem is already solved.
Yeah, before we knew any better we had the marina do the work. I suspect a lot of the cost was the labor removing and reinstalling it. Plus, I doubt they rebuilt it. I think they swapped it for another rebuilt one. Older and wiser now...
True that. I replaced the mechanical lift pump last year. Took 2 1/3l2 hours to get it off, and 3 1/2 hours to out the new one on. Primarily because you can only get at it with your left hand, can’t see it and touch it at the same time (unless you have an eyeball in your palm, and you have to hold it in place against the tension from the drive lever (with one hand) while starting the bolt (with the same hand), and with gasket goop on it, and all by feel, since you can’t see it. Two opposing thumbs on one had would also be helpful - one on each side. That said, persistence (stubbornness) got er done. Oh, and disconnect the batteries before sticking A socket wrench down in that hole near the starter - duh!Well, I can see the labor of taking it out and putting it back, plus a rebuild, adding up to that. My starter is a bitch to remove and replace. One bolt you can only get like 1/6th of a turn on it at a time, and it's a long, fine thread bolt.
I'm going be looking at grounds tomorrow. I haven't yet checked across the battery. (getting to bank 2 is a bear.) The only ground in bank 2's compartment is the ground to the battery. I don't think that would be much help. All the grounds connect to a bus in the engine compartment and the bus to the grounding lug of the engine. But, I will check across the battery terminals.I went over the drawing, nothing unusual. It would be helpful to show the grounds; on my boat there's a lot going on with ground, including shunts, etc.
Based on the symptoms you describe I guess battery two is not connected at the ground end.
Can you measure across battery two with your voltmeter, and then from a ground to the positive terminal, with the battery switch and combiner off?
I don't have ability to make up a new drawing at the moment. The original is a CAD file. That file and AutoCAD are on the home computer. I'm at the boat on a laptop.I think you need to make a new wiring diagram to show how it's hooked up rather than the way you think it's hooked up because it seems to me you can't just add an ACR without changing some other circuit so it does not conflict somewhere.
If you can't read voltage on your battery when the battery charger is not turned on then you are reading the voltage from the battery charger not from the battery.
Were there any loads when you tested voltage between terminal 2 and ground? If no loads, then the voltage should match the battery voltage, even if the supply wire has a degraded connection. Bad connections only degrade voltage substantially when they are carrying current (unless they’re so bad that they can’t carry the minimal current that the voltmeter draws).Voltage with bank 2 on, across terminal 2 and engine ground - weak.
And then use a long wire again with the voltmeter positive on the battery #2 + and the negative at various negative connections for battery #2.. If there is no voltage difference from one end of the wire to the other than the issue is in the ground side.