h34 hose ties

splax

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Nov 12, 2012
692
Hunter 34 Portsmouth
Well, my backflow preventer has jammed up and deadheads my bilge pump. Taking the opportunity to change out the corrugated tubing for smooth wall while removing the backflow preventer from the system, I want to express my appreciation to the yokels who zip tied hoses in inaccessible places making it a days work to remove a hose instead of 10 minutes.
 
Dec 14, 2003
1,393
Hunter 34 Lake of Two Mountains, QC, Can
I ran into the same problem. My hose was not leaking however so I just removed the check valve (back flow preventer) and replaced with a piece of straight pipe ! Now I had more water coming back ! So even if I know it's not really recommended, I rigged a check valve barely a foot away from the bilge pump. Works fine and I have had very little water in the bilge. But after 20 years of ownership I'm still dumbfounded as to why they ran that bilge pump hose all the way to the stern with many curves up & down requiring it be filled with antifreeze when winterizing if I don't want it to get busted by freezing residual water.
 
Nov 6, 2006
9,885
Hunter 34 Mandeville Louisiana
Indeed.. I haven't changed the old hose yet. In the 29 years that I've owned the boat I have had only one jam in the check valve. That was caused by the boat electrician (me, big dummy) dropping a piece of wire insulation in the bilge and not recovering it until I pulled it from the check valve. I carry a spare for the check so that if it fails, I can quickly replace it. I think that because the "dehumidify" cycle on my AC always runs, the fresh water flush of the valve, every day, a few times a day, has kept everything working.
 
Jun 3, 2004
890
Hunter 34 Toronto, Ontario Canada
I ran into the same problem. My hose was not leaking however so I just removed the check valve (back flow preventer) and replaced with a piece of straight pipe ! Now I had more water coming back ! So even if I know it's not really recommended, I rigged a check valve barely a foot away from the bilge pump. Works fine and I have had very little water in the bilge. But after 20 years of ownership I'm still dumbfounded as to why they ran that bilge pump hose all the way to the stern with many curves up & down requiring it be filled with antifreeze when winterizing if I don't want it to get busted by freezing residual water.
Hey Claude- good to see you on site. I have not had a problem with the hose in the 18 years I have owned the boat. I do disconnect the check valve- disconnect the pump end- and hold the valve open until all the hose water flows back then dry the bilge by sponging it out. I leave the valve disconnected all winter ( and the bilge pump electricity disconnected)
 
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Dec 14, 2003
1,393
Hunter 34 Lake of Two Mountains, QC, Can
Hey Dick, good to hear from you. Hope everything is fine for you and your wife during this crisis. My wife and I just returned from Florida last Tuesday and are thus quarantined in our house until April 7th if all goes well. As for the hose, mine has got too many ups and down even if I disconnect it there is water staying in it. Take a look at pix. It even coils down under the stove. My simple solution in the fall is to dump non-toxic antifreeze in the bilge and run the pump until I see antifreeze coming out at the through-hull. No problem.
 

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Jan 22, 2008
1,654
Hunter 34 Alameda CA
I decided to make a change in the routing of the hose. I left the old original corrugated hose in place splicing in a Whaler manual pump in the settee next to the water heater. Then I used smooth walled tubing and went through the same settee and forward into the area behind the toilet. I installed a new through hull next to the existing holding tank vent and shower discharge. Guess what? Same problem. There is still too much water in the hose with no check valve causing endless cycling. The check valve (1/2 psi) went back in. At least with a PSS the bilge is dry always. Hope it doesn't dead head if I really need it and I'm not around. :banghead:
 

splax

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Nov 12, 2012
692
Hunter 34 Portsmouth
The back flow preventer is now operational and will be installed with the new hose.
 
Jan 22, 2008
309
Hunter 34 Herrington South, MD
I reinstalled my pump with a back flow preventer after I opened up my false bilge. As with everyone else, the pump doesn't really empty the bilge when it runs and then there still is some back flow. Would it help to mount a diaphragm pump in the space above the bilge as an extra measure. I think they do a better job of removing more water and even being able to suck up even more water.
 
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Artey1

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Jul 18, 2019
165
Hunter 34 Oklahoma
Can anyone explain to me the routing of the hose? I'm about to tackle replacing or possibly snaking the original hose if its too pesky to replace and then do the false bilge project.
 

splax

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Nov 12, 2012
692
Hunter 34 Portsmouth
Can anyone explain to me the routing of the hose? I'm about to tackle replacing or possibly snaking the original hose if its too pesky to replace and then do the false bilge project.
my bilge hose runs directly through the transverse frame to the starboard side throughhull in one of the shelf storage compartments. I have not yet successfully removed it.
 

DJAY

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Apr 16, 2018
38
Hunter 31 Saylorville Lake
I replaced the hose on my Hunter 31 (1985). Routing sounds similar, if not identical to what splax describes. It was easier than I had hoped. I used some tiny flathead wood screws to connect the old to the new and masking tape to smooth the transition. Pushed from below and gently pulled from above soon the joint came into view. On this boat one can access the hose from a compartment in the galley cabinet... not sure if that's the case on a 34
 

splax

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Nov 12, 2012
692
Hunter 34 Portsmouth
It is difficult to get myself down on the galley sole and reach through the frame access to get my hand on the hose, even more so to find and remove the tie holding the hose.
 

splax

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Nov 12, 2012
692
Hunter 34 Portsmouth
my new bilge pump uses a 3/4" hose instead of a 1", so thanks for the tip on joining the hoses.