Electrical Problem, I think....

[OdayGeorge]

My Universal diesel won't start. It's the D-18 (14 HP) model. When I press the start, there isn't enough power to engage the starter, often not enough power to hear the solenoid.

I put a full charge on both deep cycle 105 amp batteries and the engine started today. I motor-sailed for an hour. When I returned to the dock, I shut down and ran the VHF and stereo for an hour. Again, I tried to start the motor and the there is no power to engage the starter.

1. I cleaned all the grounds in the boat, including the ground on the engine block.
2. The batteries are almost new and I had them checked at the store. They are in good condition.
3. The battery terminals have been cleaned.
4. I put in a new starter.

This problem has been intermittent for a couple of years. Often, I would just hit the start button a couple of times to get the engine started. I decided to fix it, and when I performed the items above, I seem to have made it worse.

Any ideas? Thanks in advance.

 

[Stu Jackson]

Replace the fuse holder from the start button to the starter solenoid

Here's two of the many posts on this issue with pictures: Fused wire to Starter and Starter Solenoid Fuse Reminder

The SYMPTOMS: NOTHING happens when you hit the start key or button. Usually originally diagnosed as a bad key or button, usually it is NOT.

 

[OdayGeorge]

I'm back at the boat on Tuesday. I'll look into it.

 

[Skipper]

I have the same motor. It does the same thing.
Model is M-18 (not D-18). Mine from the factory requires simultaneously holding the glow to enable start. Easy to rewire but I decided to leave it for piece of mind ie if a the start button sticks or if there is a short in that button etc that puts juice to the start circuit when I am away.
I changed the pushbuttons, key switch, fuse holders including the one at the engine, replaced ammeter with volt meter, eliminated long charge wire by connecting direct at alt, inspected trailer connectors which look new but I still suspect, etc.
The solenoid clicks but no start. Intermittent. Fails maybe 20% of the time. I then rapidly push the start button on and off like you, and it catches. Has done this for 10 years since I bought it, in which time I have put over 300 hours on the engine. So I just live with it. It probably did it long before I bought it too.
Some day, soon, I will put a glow solenoid instead of running the high amps through the wiring harness, and eliminate the trailer connectors, and see if that helps.
Heck it might be the starter solenoid.

 

[dlochner]

This article may be relevant to your issue.

Universal Diesel Engine - Wiring Harness Upgrade - Marine How To

Engine Panel With Ammeter = Dangerous If your Universal engine panel looks like this, and has an ammeter, you are due for some critically important wiring upgrades. The factory wiring, with an ammeter in the panel, is

marinehowto.com

 

[Skipper]

This article may be relevant to your issue.

Universal Diesel Engine - Wiring Harness Upgrade - Marine How To

Engine Panel With Ammeter = Dangerous If your Universal engine panel looks like this, and has an ammeter, you are due for some critically important wiring upgrades. The factory wiring, with an ammeter in the panel, is

marinehowto.com

Found this bit in the article you posted, which while I have seen the rest of the info in the article this is new to me and fabulous:

Quote; MarineHowTo.com
"The yellow wire with red trace is the starter solenoid wire that energizes the starter. It is a tad undersized from the factory so with any resistance in the circuit, from trailer connectors or the in-line fuse holder, this can cause solenoid engagement issues. Once the trailer connectors have been removed, the wire re-terminated and new fuse holder inserted these problems often vanish even with the yellow/red wire."

 

[StanleyJ]

The articles on the trailer connectors are spot on. I only have the M12 diesel, but I rerouted all of the high amp circuits out of the trailer connectors, replaced the anmeter with a voltmeter, and ran a new 4 gauge wire from the alternator to my batteries with an ACR. I still have the oil pressure and temperature gauge wires running thru the trailer connector but they will be replaced in the future. I no longer use the starter push button and use a 3 position ignition switch instead. It solved my problems.

 

[MitchM]

my old yan w the B panel in the cokpit w key start was unrelaible even w new batteries. the long wiring run from bat + to key switch then back to starter solenoid had serious voltage drop whihc was causing the issue even when the key switch/start button and solenoid terminals were cleaned and dielectric'd. i installed a momentary start switch button circuit right next to the engine with a very short wire run house bat to mom switch to starter solenoid. it came in very handy for starting the engine from down below fo bad weather, diagnostic work etc.

 

[dmax]

"The yellow wire with red trace is the starter solenoid wire that energizes the starter. It is a tad undersized from the factory so with any resistance in the circuit, from trailer connectors or the in-line fuse holder, this can cause solenoid engagement issues. Once the trailer connectors have been removed, the wire re-terminated and new fuse holder inserted these problems often vanish even with the yellow/red wire."

If you replace your alternator output wire with a direct connection to the starter/batteries (vs. the long run to the instrument panel and ammeter, your batteries will be much happier) you can re-use the original alternator output wire (orange, 10 awg) to go from the starter switch to the starter solenoid. The yellow/red wire is 16 awg. Cut out the trailer plugs and join the wires with a good butt connector or terminal strip. Add a legit in-line fuse near the starter on the orange wire. May not be the cure but will definitely improve things.

 

[OdayGeorge]

Thanks all for replying. I went to the boat today attempting to further diagnose the problem, and of course, the engine started right away several times. Nevertheless, per your various suggestions, I cleaned the inline fuse and fuse holder, cleaned the wire harness, and examined the glow plug and starter buttons. The glow and starter buttons looked fine, but I will replace them anyway. So again, thank you all.

 

[Richard19068]

Among the other items mentioned above check out the Universal service bulletin for this problem.

Separately, the alternator output doesn't still go to the ammeter in the panel does it? If it does that's a must fix item.

 

[OdayGeorge]

Thanks all. The starter and glow plug switches have been replaced and the problem has not reoccurred. I've been motor sailing the last couple of short trips. The engine starts right up and after returning to the slip and shutting down, it has restarted each time. I'll motor sail one more time, then I'll have the confidence to kill the engine the next good sailing day. The three+ knot currents and cargo ships here in Charleston give me great pause. Thanks again to all that responded.